:^ 



The Practical Designer 

FOR 

WOMEN'S. MISSES'. JUNIORS' & 
CHILDREN'S CLOAKS & SUITS, 

Shirt Waist Suits and Dresses 
WITH GRADING and 
SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS 



ACCORDING TO THE MOST 
APPROVED & Up-To-Date METHOD 




^pertally i3p0igne& iffor ^flf ilnatrurtion 

BY 

ISIDOFl ROSEISTFELD 

w 

NEW YORK. U. S. A. 
1911. 






COPYRIGHT 1911, BY I. ROSENFELD. 

ENTERED 

IN THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON. D. C. 






/n 



n^/ 




ISIDOR ROSENFELD 



i 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



PREFACE. 

The system illustrated ami explained in this work is, in man\- respects, 
easier and simpler to learn than T have ever seen. 

The principle on which they are l)ased is similar to nianv \va\s which I 
have given in my previous instructions, but more simplified in many ways and 
made more convenient for controlling correct divisions, and positive proportions, 
without the uncertain aid of misleading measurements. 

The system is based on the positive proportions, easily connectable to any 
size or style, which cannot fail to create in the designer or cutter who adopts it 
that confidence without which success is impossible. 

This work has been in jjreparation for many years, and is all exceptional 
work bearing on the subject. Having carefully studied the work of the most 
noted systematical and practical methods, they are thoroughly explained. 

Through many years of practical experience in teaching methods of de- 
signing and garment cutting, and through a wide acquaintance with the needs 
of the trade, I came to the understanding of the fact that the simpler a system 
the better result will be obtained by its use. and the more acceptable to all right- 
minded designers and garment cutters. It has been, therefore, my principle to 
adopt such a system for all kinds of garments and my principles have been, I 
believe, so successful that all who studv this work will be more than ever safe 
from their troubles. 

I hope that the satisfaction I feel in completing this work, as I believe this 
to be the best, will be appreciated by our progressive trade.. 

THE AUTHOR. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



IXTRoDrCTIOX. 

Recognizing tlie great need of a niddern work on designing and garment 
cutting for women, misses, juniors and children, I prepared the system which 
will probably answer the purpose of all kinds of garments. 

The interest of this work impressed me to write such a system from the 
outgrowth of many years of practical experience, and comliines a simplicity 
and accuracy that were ne-\-er before published in the details of designing and 
garment cutting. 

The natural result, I believe, will be found in this work for all those who 
desire a good stud_\- on this subject. It is gathered from facts of many years' 
travelling through the field. 

However, I am glad to say that thousands of readers will have the oppor- 
tunity of looking into practical w(.irk on designing and garment cutting, and to 
such an extent that has become necessarw which I have enlarged upon, adding 
many facts, as it is practically a new work. 

This is certainl)' a new WLirk which T hope that, in time, will be properly 
recognized and given attention. It is. I think, the greatest work of the twen- 
tieth century. The standing of practical designers depends upon the practical 
development of garment cutting. This is remarkably true. 

I am sure that the one who studies this work will be led to mechanical 
control of practical knowledge in designing and garment cutting. 

ISIDOR ROSENFEI.D. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE GRAMMAR OF DESIGNING AXD GARMENT Cl'TTING. 

Tlie grammar of garment cutting is adapted by the first 10 numbers 
which are producing the height and width proportions of the woman's body. 
These numbers are called grammar numbers, and they are as follows: 1, 2, 3, 
4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. 

These numbers shall be divided into two classes : They are called odd and 
even. These numbers are originators of the height and width proportions. 

In order to begin to produce the regular proportions for the female form, 
we write out the 10 numbers as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and con- 
nect the odd and even numbers as shown. Now connect the odd numbers, 1 to 
3 and 5 to 7. Now add these numbers, as from 1 and 3 are 4 ; 5 and 7 are 12. 
Now connect the even numbers, 2 and 4 are 6 ; 6 and 8 are 14. Now add all ready 
numbers, which are 4, 12, 6 and 14, which amount to 36 inches which is the 
size of garment and the beginning number of the width proportions. 

In order to get the other width proportions, add the beginning number 
of 36, which is the number 3, to the total amount of 36 which will make it 39 
inches for the standard bust measurement. In order to get the waist measure- 
ment, take 1/3 of 36 and 1 inch less which is 11 ; now take these 11 inches 
from 36 which leaves 25 inches for the waist measurement. 

In order to get the hip measurement, take 1/2 of 36 and add to the waist 
measurement which is 25 inches and this will make 43 inches for the standard 
hip measurement which is 43 inches for the standard hip measurement. In order 
to get the height proportions the grammar numbers are again used as beginning 
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, connect the beginning and ending number between 
1 and 10 as follows : 

1 and 10 are 11. 4 and 7 are 11. 

2 and 9 are 11. 5 and 6 are 11. 

3 and 8 are 11. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



Now use again the first numbers, as 1 and 10 are 11. Now add these numbers 
which make 6 x 11 which will amount to 66 inches or 5 feet 6 inches, which 
is the total height to the body. 

This action is shown by the proportional measurements. If the pro- 
portional measurements are changed, we shall know how much the measure- 
ments are increased or decreased, which will be changed according to the style 
of the garment or according to the latest models from time to time. 

These height proportions, which are made by this method, are only for 
woman's size. The smaller sizes are to be followed according to the age with 
the dififerent heights as follows : 

The misses" sizes 18 shall measure in height 5 feet 5 inches. 

The misses' sizes 16 shall measure in height 5 feet 4 inches. 

The misses' sizes 14 shall measure in height 5 feet 3 inches. 

Juniors' sizes are as follows: 

The juniors' size for 18 shall measure in height 5 feet 4 inches. 

n 5 feet 3 inches. 

IG 5 feet 3 inches. 

1-5 5 feet 1 inch. 

14 5 feet inch. 

13 4 feet 11 inches. 

1'3 4 feet 10 inches. 

The children's sizes are as follows : 

Size 14 measures in height 5 feet 

12 4 feet 10 inches. 

10 4 feet 3 inches. 

8 4 feet 4 inches. 

6 4 feet 

4 3 feet S inches. 

3 3 feet 4 inches. 

1 3 feet 

For dividing this height find lesson, "How to divide the heiarht." 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE MEASURE OF A WOMAN BY PROPORTION. 

No table of proportions that I have yet seen in print gives an established 
and perfect form for obtaining divisions and sub-divisions of either height or 
circumference measures and none of them, therefore, can be relied upon to 
secure satisfactory results. 

Some years ago the fact was deeply impressed on my mind that a cor- 
rect system of proportions of the human form, applicable to every shape, nor- 
mal, stooping or erect, was greatly needed by the trade. 

This impression incKiced me to some principles that should be sound in 
theory, on which to construct such a system that should completely fulfill the 
requirements of proportionate and disproportionate forms with equal exactness. 

My investigations were commenced on the supposition that the average 
height of woman is five feet six inches, and my calculations were made to har- 
monize with this. 

The resulting scale of proprrtions radiates from this height, modified and 
corrected by proportions of bulk, is thoroughly illustrated and explained in these 
pages. The scale is automatic, and every size of any height required can be 
found. To illustrate how the sizes and proportions of the body are obtained, I 
submit the following problem : 

A RULE OF PROPORTIONS. 

The rule of proportions already explained will be found to be equally 
applicable to the female figure and serves well to bring out the many peculiari- 
ties of the form. The height of the body is divided into three principal parts ; 
the first part is the head space, from the top of the head to the socket-bone. The 
second part is the natural waist length in back, from socket-bone to the hollow 
of the waist. The third part is the skirt length in front, from natural waist 
to the ground. 

In a lecture on proportions I expressed these views, and also proceeded 
to sketch an outline of a system of measurements on the several positions for 
the human form, which measurements might be so combined that the total height 
as well as other details should be the outcome and not the basis of the method 
employed. 

The rule of proportions to be immediately fully described and illustrated 
is founded on such a plan. The standing height of the female figure is five feet 
six inches, or sixty-six inches, and includes the length or space of head. 

We first take ofif 1/8 of the height, which is 8 1/4 inches for this height, 
and the balance of this is left for the indication of clothing. 

The total height is divided into eight units. These units are planted to 
simplified purposes. One unit covers the head space. Two units cover the waist 
length and five units cover the length of skirt in front. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



HOW TO FIND THE HEIGHT. 

Having the total height of a figure measuring 5 feet 6 inches, we draw 
a straight hne of this length from A to B and one at right angles with its top, 
from A to C, which shall be one-half length of the first line. A to C is one- 
half of A and B. Now connect C to B by a line and make half of this, which 
is D. From the pivot, B by D, sweep the curved line to the straight line which 
gives E, just equal to the natural waist length, from head to hollow of the 
waist and again from the waist to the floor, which is called the length for skirt 
in front. 

Let this sub-division continue and oljtain other points. Now take one- 
third of the distance from A to E, this will make J. This is the head space 
which we do not cloth. 

Now take one inch below J, which makes K. Now divide the space from 
K to E, which makes I. Raise up 3/4 of an inch to make L. The spaces from 
A to J is the head space, from J to K allow one inch for the collar stand. Regard- 
ing the natural waist length, we now take the space from K to E and half of 
this space makes I, from I to L is 3/4 of an inch. Now we can understand that 
from K to L is the depth of size, 7 inches ; and from L to E is the side body 
length, which is 8 inches for this height. 

From E to F draw a straight line and divide this space, which makes C. 
Now sweep from C to H ; from E to H measures 10 inches for this height. This 
space is called the raise. This space or measurement is used for riding breeches, 
bloomer or divided riding skirts. From H to B measures 31 inches for this 
height. This space can be used for the inside length for riding pants, riding 
breeches and bloomers. M is half of H and B, N is 3 inches up from M. N 
is the natural point of the knee line. 

Having the number for any height, we can understand and safely deviate 
any height for correcting forms by reducing the one height or increasing the 
other. The size remains the same. 

Whatever the size of breast may be, the height is regulated by its own 
length, according to the divisions as given in this problem or the table else- 
where given in this work. When the height increases the length of natural 
waist, front and back depth all increases in the same ratio. The scale which I 
give includes the allowances needed in drafting. To make the system of propor- 
tions perfectly clear and easy to use for the student, I prepared a table of sizes 
which will assist in quickly obtaining the results of these measurements. 

For childrens' and junior garments we shall follow a different method of 
dividing the height regarding the build of these two forms. The reason why 
these two bodies difl:'er is that they do not wear any tight corsets and. there- 
fore, the change is to be made between the socket bone and the waist line which 
calls for the back depth. 

Regarding a correction for the space between the socket bone and waist 
line we shall divide the waist line as, for instance, at the waist line for junior 
size 15, which is 14 1/4 inches. We shall take 1/3 of this 14 1/4, which makes 
7 1/8 ; and in order to get the back depth we shall take of? 1/3 of an inch from 
7 1/8, which will make 6 5/8 inches for the back depth. Now add 1/3 of an 
inch which you have taken off from 7 1/8 and add to the lower part of 7 1/S 
which will make the under arm length 7 5/8 inches. 

For the children's sizes, for instance, take size 6 ; where the waist length 
is about 11 inches; now divide this 11 inches which will make 5 1/3 inches. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



Now take off only 1/4 of an inch of 5 1/3 which will leave 5 1/4 inches for the 
back depth and will make the under arm length 5 3/4 inches. The reason why 
these changes are made in these two dififerent sizes is to lengthen the deepness 
of the back length which is needed for this size regarding the good fitting gar- 
ment. 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



PROPORTIONAL HEIGHT SCALE. 

The proportional and Antomatic Table of sizes in these pages gives the 
length for depth, side body, natural waist and skirt length in front, ranging 
from 5 feet to 6 feet, arranged to correspond with the width of breast from 3? 
to 48 inches. Although it only gives them to 48 inches, it can readly be calcu- 
lated what increase is needed for any size above this figure by comparing the 
difference between the size below and adding it to 48 to get the size wanted. 

The number on the top line of each little space is the natural waist length. 
The second row is the depth of size in back, from top line to the breast line. The 
third row is the side body length, from under arm to waist line. 

On the bottom of this table of proportions we have the proportional skirt 
lengths for any height wanted. The complete heights are placed under the height 
number and it shows all the lengths. 

This table gives 147 different sizes and many more combinations which 
are valuable and simplifies the method of correcting measures. 

In applying it to practical use we give the following examples, which will 
make it clear and readily understood. 

Suppose we have a person measuring 36 breast, and whose height is 5 
feet 6 inches, and want to find the proportion for use in drafting. We first look 
for the breast size, 36, on the side ; and on the number of height, 5 feet 6 inches. 
Now we go down from the last number till we are opposite 36, and we find in 
the little box space 15 1/2 natural waist length, 7 inches depth of size in back, 
and 8 l/"2 inches side body length under arm. 

Take another case : 42 size on the side, and on the top 5 feet 10 inches, 
and, going down from the last, find the space opposite 42, and we have length of 
waist 16 7/8 and also the other measurements. In the same way we find all and 
every size for use. 

In drafting proportionate garments apply the sizes found on the scale or 
table of proportions, and when the height increases or decreases find the corre- 
sponding size. This can easily be found because it is seldom necessary to deviate 
more than two sizes from the proportionate. 

The manner of using the table for short or tall figures is the same as the 
regular form. 

By using the table of proportions in the manner explained, anv size cor- 
responding to the form can be easily found, and it is, therefore, valuable not 
only for regular height, but also for short and tall forms. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



Proportional Height Scale and Automatic Table 
for female figures. 



Height 
in Feet 


5 


3/1 


5/2 


5/3 


5/4 


3/5 


5/6 


5/7 


5/8 


3/9 


5/10 


5/11 


5/12 


SIZES 

32 


133/4 

6 
7% 


14 

6'/8 

7% 


141/4 
6 1/4 
8 


141/2 

63/8 
81/8 


143/4 
61/2 
81/4 


15 

65/8 
83/8 


151/4 

63/4 
8I/2 


151/2 
6% 

85/8 


153/4 
7 

83/4 


16 

71/8 
8% 


I61/4 

7'/4 

9 


I61/2 
7% 
9% 


163/4 

71/2 
91/4 


34 


13% 

6'/8 

73/4 


141/8 

6'/4 

7% 


14% 

63/8 

8 


145/8 
6I/2 
81/8 


14% 

65/8 

8 1/4 


151/8 

63/4 
83/8 


153/8 

6% 

8I/2 


155/8 
7 

85/8 


15% 
7% 

83/4 


16% 
71/4 
8% 


16% 
73/8 
9 


165/8 

71/2 
9% 


16% 
75/8 
91/4 

17 

73/4 
91/4 


36 


14 

6'/4 

73/4 


14'/4 
63/8 

7% 


141/2 

6'/2 

8 


143/4 
65/8 
81/8 


15 

63/4 

8 1/4 


15 1/4 

6% 

83/8 


151/2 

7 

81/2 


153/4 

7% 

85/8 


16 

7 1/4 
83/4 


l6'/4 

7% 
8% 


161/2 

71/2 
9 


163/4 

75/8 
9% 


38 


I4I/8 
63/8 

73/4 


143/8 
61/2 
7% 


145/8 

65/8 

8 


14% 

63/4 

8% 


151/8 

6% 

8 1/4 


153/8 

7 

83/8 


155/8 
7'/8 
8'/2 


15% 

7'/4 
85/8 


16% 

73/8 

83/4 


16% 

7 1/2 

8% 


165/8 
75/8 

9 


16% 
73/4 
91/8 


17% 
7% 
91/4 


40 


14'/4 
6'/2 

73/4 


14'/2 
65/8 

7% 


143/4 

63/4 

8 


15 
6% 
8% 


151/4 
7 
81/4 


151/2 
71/8 
83/8 


153/4 
71/4 
8I/2 


16 

73/8 

85/8 


16'/4 

71/2 

83/4 


I61/2 

75/8 
8% 


163/4 
73/4 

9 


17 

7% 
9% 


171/4 
8 
91/4 

173/8 
8% 

9 1/4 


42 


143/8 

6% 
73/4 


145/8 

63/4 

7% 


14% 
6% 
8 


151/8 

7 

8'/8 


153/8 
71/8 
81/4 


155/8 
71/4 
83/8 


15% 

73/8 
81/2 


16% 

71/2 

85/8 


16% 

75/8 

83/4 


165/8 

73/4 

8% 


16% 
7% 
9 


17% 
8 
9% 


44 


l4'/2 
63/4 
73/4 


143/4 
6% 

7% 


15 
7 
8 


151/4 
71/8 

8'/8 


151/2 

7 1/4 
8«/4 


153/4 
73/8 
83/8 


16 

71/2 
81/2 


I6I/4 

75/8 
85/8 


161/2 

73/4 

83/4 


163/4 

7% 
8% 


17 
6 
9 


171/4 

8% 
9% 


171/2 
81/4 
91/4 


46 


145/8 

6% 

73/4 


14% 
7 
7% 


151/8 
71/8 
8 


153/8 
71/4 

81/8 


155/8 
73/8 
8I/4 


15% 
71/2 

83/8 



16 

75/8 

83/8 


16% 
75/8 
8I/2 


163/8 
73/4 
85/8 


165/8 

7% 

83/4 


16% 
8 
8% 


17% 
8% 
9 


173/8 
81/4 
9% 


175/8 

83/8 
91/4 

173/4 

8I/2 
9'/4 


48 


143/4 

7 

73/4 


15 

7'/8 

7% 


l5!/4 
71/4 
8 


151/2 
73/8 

81/8 


153/4 
71/2 

8'/4 


I61/4 
73/4 
8I/2 


16'/2 

7% 

85/8 


163/4 

8 

83/4 


17 

8% 
8% 


171/4 
81/4 
9 


17 1/2 

8% 
91/8 


PROPORTIONAL SKIRT LENGTH 


Front 


37 '/2 


381/8 


383/4 


393/8 


40 


405/8 


411/4 


41% 


421/2 


43% 


433/4 


443/8 


45 


Side 


39'/2 


40'/8 


403/4 


413/8 


42 


42% 


431/4 


43% 


44'/2 


45% 


453/4 


463/8 


47 


Back 


41'/2 


42'/8 


423/4 


433/8 


44 


445/8 


45«/4 


45% 


461/2 


47% 


473/4 


483/8 


49 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE STUDY ON WIDTH PROPORTIONS. 

Many people would like to know how and where the bust is increased ; 
also the other measurements, as the waist and hips. The majority fail to think 
of this great importance, and this is why the question of the standard measure- 
ment for bust, waist and hip was never answered. The bust measurement espe- 
cially was always a misunderstood measurement. 

It often happens that a bust measurement is not known ; or. if it is known, 
it is not known how much the bust should be for a 3G size or how the bust 
should be increased for the size wanted ; and so the waist and hip measurements 
are misunderstood regarding this increase. 

Therefore, I have prepared a practical outline for simplifying this method 
by clearly showing and explaining how to make and test such measurements for 
yourself. 

To control these width proportions have patience and read carefully the 
further instructions. See Diagram No. 2. 

To begin showing the operations of the width division, we draw a line 
from A to B ; this is 1/3 of 3G which is 12 inches, C is 1/2 of A and B. Now 
make a circle at C to meet A and B ; this circle will measure 36 inches, size of 
chest measurement. Now draw a line from C to D ; this space shall also meas- 
ure 12 inches, or 1/3 of 30 inches. Now draw lines from A to D and from B 
to D, and measure for bust from A, B and D and back to A ; this will give full 
bust measurement, 39 inches. Now make E between A and C, and F between 
C and B, and connect with lines to D. Now measure these lines from F to D. 
and E to D. This v\'ill give full waist measurement, 25 inches. For hip meas- 
urement make from C to D 1/3, which is from C to G. Now measure from C 
to G; and from A, B, D to A will give full hip measurement, 43 inches. 

Changes on width proportion for either size are only made in order to 
build the model of fashion for each season, and such measurements can be had 
bv the writer free of charge. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Diagram No. 2 



13 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



A TEST OF SYSTEMATICAL KNOWLEDGE AND THEIR 
PRINCIPLES. 

A system of designing and garment cutting will be carried out with a 
great many principles. The first one of our principles is to kno^v the different 
sorts of fittings, as the tight fitting, three-quarter fitting, half fitting and full fit- 
ting. Every one of these garments shall be adopted in a different manner and 
shape. The tight fitting garment has its strict fitting points, the spaces between 
gores are not changeable for any reason. Before measuring tight fitting gar- 
ments have seams taken off' both sides of the gores, and after measuring for 
each gore it shall amount to half the waist measure wanted for the size. The 
ha!f fitting garments shall be tested the same way as the tight fitting, except 
the waist. It is not necessary that the waist for half fitting garments shall be 
tested. Should you want to measure it, it should measure half of the size wanted 
without the seams taken oft': for size 06 the waist should measure 18 inches, in- 
cluding seams. The hip for half fitting garments shall be always full. The 
three-quarter fitting garment shall be tested the same way as the tight fitting, 
and shall also carry the same gores as the tight fitting garment. The waist of 
this garment shall be increased with the curving or shaping of the waist, which 
makes it three-quarter fitting. This garment shall only be drafted from a tight 
fitting outline and no other. The full fitting, which is called a box coat, is cut 
only in two parts ; no shape or waist effect is required, therefore the waist at 
the hip is not measured for this garment. It is tested only across the chest and 
bust, the hips shall be cut very full. 

The test of patterns is, to a great extent, necessary for those who wish 
to be accurate in their measurements. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 14 



Model loattems should be tested before they are used for fashion work or gard- 
ing. The testing should Ijegin at the depth of size, natural waist lengtii or full 
length coat. The size should be earefuU}- examined at tlie nock and arndiole, as 
these parts of the coat are the most important parts built for the size, otherwise the 
size is not measured across for the size it is only a controlling nnmljer for its use. 

The bust measurement directly adapted for the connection to the size or so 
Ciilled chest measure, the bust measure is an increase on the chest line and it shows the 
development of bust. This bust measurement is changed into action al'lei' ih'afts are 
reqiiii'oil. 

A bust line is, therefore, adapted which is taken from or between the regular 
breast or chi^t line to 1 lie natural waist line in front, and where the breast can be 
measured to tlie depth of size on hack where a .special line shall be made across. 

The waist is measured on the waist line in front of the garment. Tiie waist 
shall be measured on the long waist snug. 'I'he waist measuring shall be carefully 
considered on tight fitting It is not necessary to mea.sure the waist for half fitting 
garment. It should be 3 inches more than the waist measures. The waist for 
box coats shall not be measured. 

The hip shall be measured the same way as the waist on the liipline. The 
liip shall always be measiii'ed full for all parts of the garment seams siiall be taken 
off first and after, the insii'e ^pa(■e shall lie mea'sured. The bottom of short coats 
shall not be measured. Full length coats or capes sJiall measure half way as much 
as tlie full length of the garment measurement. Suppose the length of the coat 
or cape is 50 inches, the half of your coat or cape shall uieasui-e also fiO inches. 
This means that the full bottom shall be 100 inches. 



15 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE SYSTEM OF I'JfAl'TlCAE ^•AEUE. 

The value of 'a^ system is its .simiilicity and its correctness is greatly de- 
pendent upon their approved outlines. 

This system is placed on original outlines and useful measurements. 

The platform measurements of this sptem axe as follows:- Size, Bust, AVai.'^t 
and Hip. These measurements are called, "Width Proportions."' Except these 
measurements we have deptli of size and natural waist lengih. L 

These measurements are called : hight Divisions. 

The reader will find these topics all explainal in the following pages. 

The simplicity of this s)-steni, lies in the constructional conditions, where 
connection's are made at the beginning. As the height and width measurements 
arc combined and they work its necessity To operate this sj^stem the student 
only needs to know the size of garment wanted and the length of natural waist 
length Any bust measurement can l:>e connected to any size. 

The waist and hip mea.surements we can either incrtase or decrease. 

The foundation lines are the saane for all kind.s of style or fitting wanted. 

The original outgrowing numbers for our model size can be obtained by 
carefully studying its needs for \he trade. The model size used' for manufacturing 
woman's garments is 3G size. 

The size 3G, shall therefore carry out aJl its standard width measurements 
io be enrolled from the 36 size number. The first outgrowing measurement we 
call the bust. In order to get the bust measurements we count the difference be- 
tween the 2 size numbers o and (!. This amounts to 3. Now add these 3 inches 
to the size which is 3G and Uii-; will make 39 indbes bust measure. 

The next measurment we want is the waist. Take lj3 of 36, and 1 inch less 
will make 1 finches, take off these 11 inches from 36, and it will leave clear '2.5 inch- 
es, which will lie the waist measurement. 

Al'liT this we look for the hip mea.suremcnt. Take 1/2 of 30, which is 18, 
add 18 to 2.5 in. waist, will make 43 inch, hip measurement. 

These three measurements are controlled by the size 36 only. These meas- 
urements can be changed at any time wanted, regarding st3de of model, meaning 
if smaller or larger busts, waist and hip wanted for the same size, otherwise these 
are the standard niioasurements of the size 36. There are a great nian-y who do not 
Imow the creation of tlie size wanted or where the size of the model should be measur- 
ed. The size of the model can be obtained by measuring around the chest. As a rule 
this measurement works overbuilt vnth 1 inch On live models this measur- 

ment should be measured snug, and it Mill ]irove a proper size number of the body 
for women'? garments. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



The .Misses model sizu is IG ^yuai's oi' age, and luea^iuvs :>4 iiiehes anmiid llie 
cliest. Tills chest measureineiit is used as a g'uide muuber. The bust, aneasureiiieut 
is developed from the chest size. In order to get the bust we add the first number 
of 34, which is 3, to 34 and it will make 37 bust measurement. Ilegarding the waist 
measurement, take 1/3 of 34, which is 11 1/4, which leaves 22-3/4. This space 
shall be fulfilled to 23 inches for waist measurement. Regarding the hip measure- 
ment, add half of size IT to the 23 waist measurement which will make in hip meas- 
urement. 

The Junior Model size is 12 years of age and measures 30 iuihes around the 
chest. This Junior chest measurement is used for the size guide. The increase of bust 
for this size is 1 inch less than the misses size. The misses size increases 3 indies and 
Junior only 2 inches. This will make for Junior size 12, 30 chest and 32 inches 
bust measurement. The waist for this junior size is the same as the misses size, 23 
inches, as the waist for the Junior figure is greatly increased as a tight fitting cor- 
set is not worn by this model. For the hip measurement take half of the age num- 
ber of this size 12, and add it to chest numl:>er which is 30 inches, tliis will make G 
and 30, 36 inches for hip measurement. 

The Children's Model size is 6 years of age, measuring 26 inches aroimd the 
breast. The waist for this size is 24 inches. One more than the Junior waist meas- 
urement is, as the child of this age is built very fttll in the waist. The. hip measure- 
ment for this form is very flat, add the breast numbers and ii. which will give 
you 32 inches hip measurement. 

Each one of these models are to be considered as a dilTeiN iii luiili rrnm each 
dllier. The other divisional measurements can be found in the l'ulli>\viiiii' pa.u'es or in 
the proportional table of measurements. 

The complete tables of divisions are divided in many sections and sizes. The 
woman's regular sizes are from 32 to 44. The misses sizes are from 1 1 to 18. 
The jimioTS sizes are from 12 to IG. The chidlren sizes are from 2 to 14. The 
woman's sizes are called according to their chest measurement. The misses sizes 
are called according to their age from 14 to 18 years old. The juniore sizes are 
called according to their ages from 12 to IG years of age. The eliildren's sizes 
are called according to their ages from 2 to 14 years of age. 

The complete table of proportional measurements can be found in the I'ollow- 
ing pages. 



17 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

Proportional Measurement for Women's Garments 
for the height of 5 feet 6 inches. 













Natural 


Inside 


Width 












Back 


Waist 


Sleeve 


of 




Size 


Bust 


Waist 


Hip 


Depth 


Length 


Lengt'i 


Back 


Collar 



32 


35 


23 


41 


6H 


15>i 


17 


(>H 


6/2 


34 


37 


24 


42 


678 


15^8 


\7)2 


7 


634 


36 


39 


25 


43 


7 


15^. 


18 


1% 


7 


38 


41 


26 


44 


7'b 


1558 


I8J4 


7/2 


7K 


40 


43 


27 


45 


7 '4' 


15^ 


183^ 


7% 


7/2 


42 


45 


2.^)4 


46 


7-^-: 


15'- 


18 


8 


7K 


44 


46 


30 


47 


7'i' 


16 


19 


8K 


8 



The width oj back ond collar measurements on this table is 
showing half way only, included with seams. 

SCALE METHOD ON DKAFTING. 

For this s}sl,em of (Iviii'tiuL;' we are using a siniplilid divisional scale. 
This scale is not sold to non - pupils, therefore, 1 have prepared a table of all 
kinds of , divisions which -svill fulfill the requirements of time saving. The system of 
'drafting in these pages is explained hoth ways, scale ni\ethod and inch method. 
] s-hall explain the differonts of scale method & inch method, scale method is called 
the divisional way of d.rafting as to follow 1/8. 1/4, 1/2, of size or any other di- 
vibion, this is followed on the scale, and without the scale we use the inches which 
amounts to 2 1/4 — i 1/2 — or 9 inches on 3(i size, or more or less for any other 
sizes. I am also showing and explaining in the instruction both ways as I mention 
the amounts 1/6 of size or 3 inches, l/Sjof size or 6 inches. The devision is followed 
by the half size, when I say 1 ^H or 1 /S of 30 thisfmeans 1/G or 1/8 of 18 inches. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



18 




The measurements which we use for drafting pr.,portional sizes are as follow: 

Back Depth, from, A. to B. 

Natural Waist Length, from A. to C. 

Chest all around which is the size, at E. 

Waist all around' at G. 

Bust all around at F. 

Hips all around at, II. 

Sleeve length fmni 1. In .1. 



19 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



L E S S OX 1 . I. 

1 shall now cDiiiiiii'iicr |(i e.xiilain the ilral'tiuj;' of a woiiii'iis iiioilel size 30. 
This begins the foimilation liiie^ foi- the liodv. from neek (1o\mi lo tlie hip. We 
shall iTse the follow iiig slaiidai'd nieasureiuents I'ov ilrafting a regiihir 3G size. 
Baclv Deptli T iiiehes Bust 39 inches 

Xatui'al waist leiiglh ]."> 1 ■.' iiielies Waist 25 inches 

Size or Chest -'ICi iuelies Hip +3 inches 

Xow liegiii tu iliafl ihc lines from A. to U. ami from .V. to \\ . From A. to 
B is 7 inch Imck ilejith. from A to C is l-Vl/S in. natural waist length. Fram 

C to D is G inches hip Icngtli. The liip line is always (i inelies helow tlie waist line. 
.vTow cross all lines from A. B. C. D. 

Now measure from B. to G. and from L).; to E. '?/3 yards of size oi' Vi inches. 
jN'ow draw a line f rem E. to G. up to U. now take( half of B. and G. to make H. from 
H. to ' is 1 1/4 inch, now dxaWta line from I. up to J. from A. to K. is 1/6 of a size. 
Or 3 inches. From/K. to L. is 1 inch now connect a line from L. to J. out .M. 
In order to get the correct width of shoukler for any size use a square from L. to J. 
and this will give a correct width of shoulder At M. from G. to F.i's 1/6 of size. 
Or 3 inches draw a line up f roni\ F. to Q. from Q. to P. is 1/6 of size, and from P. to 
0. is also 1/6 of size or 3 inches. is the neck and shouldeiy point of front. Fi'om 
D. to E. is 1/12 of size or or 1/12 inch, from C. to S. is 2 inches. Now draw a line 
from E to S and from S to A. this line buildte the shape of the body. Xow dra^- a 
line from the neck point to T at the neck depth, this line builds the front shiiiil(]er. 

The lines of this diagram sliall be named in-order to keep track of them as 
these are the foundation lines for all drafts. The line at A. is eallecli, To/i linr. The 
line at B. is called llmi^i line. The line at? C is called Wal.4 Vuir. The jine at D. is 
called ////) lhic. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



20 




r.,esson No. 1 



21 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 2. 

■g 

The beginning oC tlii? Irsson is tlie =arae a? Lesson 1. Now contimie licssnn 
Now measure the shonkler at tlie back in order to get the proper shoiiMer 
widtli in front, measure first tlie back shoulder fi-om L to M and mark the same 
from to XJ. In order to connect tlie arm hole make from F In Y 1 - 1/'? inches 
and connect with line to U. This will complete the outline of the front arm hole, 
now measure the bust from T to Y is 39 bust measure or in inches this will amount 
to 19 - 1/3 inches. From Y to I is three inches for seam allowance, from P to W 
is 1/6 of size or 3 inches. Now connect a line from W to 1 which will malce the 
chest effect, we now begin to work the back, from E to Z is 1/G nf size or '■] inches, 
from S to XX is 1 inch less tlian from K to Z. now draw a line from Z to XX toll. 
'I'.tiv'de T t(. ._' makes .'!.;;, cro'jS a small line from 33 I" 34, from M to 3-t is the Iwick 
put of llie ai'.'ii hole. Now begin to work the side !)ody of a tight fit'.nu' gniiiient, 
freiii Z to ': is 3/ i cf an inch, from XX to 3 is one inch. Now connec,-: lines from 
2 to 3 and trom 3 tc H. After having this lino completed allow from '1 to N 3/1: 
of an i!;(li and from F to 13 also 3/4 of an inch. Now draw a line from N down 
to 13, divide bet\^■epn N to IT makes 0. Divide Ijetween 3 and, -i this will give T, 
di'aw a line from C, lo 7 down to 8, from G (o 5 is 1 inch. Both sides of ? iiMrk 
2/-1- of an inch at 9 and hi Both sides of 8, 11 and 12 is also 3 !-4 of an inch. 
X'ow connfct lines from G to 9 and It), this will make a tight fitting effect ori the 
waist line, 7iow cross lines from 9 to 12 and from 10 to 11. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson _ 



23 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 3 . 

liiis lessou will complete the tight fitting garment, fmni 4 to 1-i is 1 iudi. 
\my draw a line from 14 to N 1/4 of an inch space, in front from N, from 13 to 15 
IS 1 inch, from E to 16 is also 1 inch, now^ cross line from 14 to 16 and from 4 to IJ 
this is a full increase of the side hip. From 18 to 19 is 1 1/-2 of the size or 1 1/2", 
from IS +0 ^O is 2 - 1/4" or one eight of size. Now draw a line from 14 to 2''. to 
reach 21, draw a line from 1 against 19 to reach 21 and. 22. Measiire from 21 to 32 
P invi'es, also correct from 14 to 16, 6 inches for hip space. Draw a line front 24 
ti. 16 this will finish the length of hip in fiont. Xow we begin the outline Lf a 
dart in front, divide the chest from F to 1, to make 23. Now take the amoimt be- 
tween 1 and 23 and place same from 1!) and 24 and draw, a line from 23 against 24, 
20. and 25. Xow divide the space from 23 and 26 to make 30, from 20 to 27 is 1 
inch, 25 to 28 1 - 1/4 inches. From 20 to 29 is 3 inches. Now connect lines from 
30 to 27 and. from 30 to 29 and 31. Xow draw a line from 27 to 28, now cross the 
jiarallel lines with the waist from 27 to 31. Xow connect square line from 27, 31 
and 32 . The space between 31 and 32 shall be carefully even in 
length, in order to have the dart of this garment correctly understood. 
Xow we begin to curve this complete outline, curving begins at the 
neck part and back at A, we first tost a sixth of the size from L toA and what- 
ever is over bnilt toward A. We curve down to T which is the deptlijof the size line, 
now hollow the both shoulders als o curve from M, 34^ from 34 to IT. to XX as slmwn 
on diagram. From X we directly begin to curve and finish at Z, now \\e increase 
from 34 to X a 1/2 inch up, and 3/8 for a se*ani and we again curve for the side 
from X to H to No. 3. From 3 to 2 we again curve separately from the waist line, 
now curve from X with a seam allowed to 5, at 5 raise the seam allowance for the 
inside side body and curve to 'G. N., now at the Same time we complete the front' 
arm hole, from U to V and N, thils completes the work of the arm hole, we again 
begin to curve for the inside side bodies, now begin the side curve from 5 to 9 and 
10 to be finished strong at the waist line, now we start with the curve from the 
wai~t to the hip line from 9 to 13 and 10 to 11. This places the curves on the hip. 
Xow begin the side hip curving, from 4 to 15, have the same amount of curving as 
9 tpi 12, from 14 to 16 makes a strong curve which is about 3/4 of an inch, this part 
of the garment should alw-ays carry the strongest curve as this is the strongest ]iart 
of the hip wanted for a tight fitting garment. Now begin to curve the dart in front 
up from 30 about 1 inch, begin to curve; 27 and 28 also from 30, 29, 31 and 32,at 30 
always curve strong in order to have the dart lost at the finishing of 30 and up to 1 
inch. Now curve from 16 to 32 and from 28 to 22 and a half inch up as shown on 
diagram. Xow begin to curve the neck from to W to 39, from W to 39 always 
allow the san»e, from 39 curve to 1, from 1 to 19, from 19 to 21 and 22, aiwavs in- 
crease to front by shaping with 1/2 ineli towards the front at 22. '^\^k completes 
the tight fitting garment. This garment wn be used for all sorts of tiglit fitting 
outlays wanted. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



24 




Lesson 3 



25 THE PEACTIGAL DESIGNEE 



LESSON 4 . 
TIGHT FITTIXG JACKET TWO DAETS IN FRONT 

This lesson begins the same way as lesson 3, this diagram is showing two 
darts in front also the button stand and collar. To begin the darts we take half of 
N to 14 which makes 23. Now take half of 1 and 21 makes 24, this line shows lis 
the height of raising np the darts for the bust. Now we begin to make the space 
between the darts, from 24 to 25 is 2 1/2 inches, from 25 to 26 is 3 inches, from 21 
to 27 is 2 3/4 inches, from 27 to 28 is 3 3/4 inches. 

Now draw lines from 25 to meet 27 and 29, also to meet 28 and 30. Now we 
make the side lines for the dart, ivon\ 27 to 31 is 1/4 inch, from 27 to 32 is 1/3 inch, 
from 28 to 35 is 1/2 inch, from 28 to 3(!is2inches.Now cross parallellinesfromSland 
35 to 37, now make all side lines for the darts from 25 to 31, 48 also 25 to 32, 47 is 
1/4 from 29. Now draw lines from 26 to 35 and to 46, 46 is 1/4 from 30, again 
from 2G to 36 to meet 37. Now square line from 35 and 37 down to 38, this 
completes the two darts. The bottom stand for tight fitting is one inch, the allow- 
ance shall always be made on the breast and hip lines. From 1 to 20 is 1 inch and 
from 22 to 50 is also 1 inch for button stand, from 50 to 51 is a half inch allowed 
from the waist line lost. Now begin to draft the collar and lapel, in order to begin 
the collar we shall first decide the opening of the coat, the opening shall always be 
marked on the outside of the Imtton stand, for short lapels we begin the lapel on 
the breast line. Now before we begin to draft the collar we make one inch space 
for (■nllnrstandfrom to 42 tliisl is from the front neck ]ioint to the stand line for the 
coUar. Now draw a line from 20 to 42 and 43, from 42 to 43 is 1/6 of size or 3 
inches, 43 to 44 is one inch, connect 44 to and curve the neck to W down way to 
39 and 40, from W to 39 is 3 inches, this spare can be changed to any width wanted. 
From 39 to 40 is two incho- lajicl mitcli, from 39 to 41 is the collar notch, this 
space shouhl always be l/'A" lo-s llian llic lapel, from 43 to 45 i& 2 - 1/2", to draw a 
line to 41 or an inch lower than the notch of the collar to shape out the collar between 
45 and 41 and finisli up at 39. Now cirrve the front 20 to tlie waist front and from 
the waist begin to shape out with a half inili fi'om 50 to 51, curve the bottom of 
front, now curve 14 to 16 with 6 i>elic<. from 3; to 38 and 36 to 46 .shall ako be 6 
inches, now curve from- 16 to 38, curve 40, 47 and 48 to 49. 49 is a half inch 
shape up from 50. 

When cutting the front, a notch shall be made at the l)eginning of tlu' la|iol. 
This completes the Jacket with the two darts. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



26 




Lesson 4 



27 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 5 . 

TIGHT FITTING FRENCH SEAM GARMENT. 

This garment is drafted tlie same way as Les'son No. 3, this draft is onlv 
changed with the French seams. In order to begin, we allow on the back shoulder 
from N to M, 3/4 of an inch for a seam which is placed in the middle part of tli(^' 
back shoulder 25. 25 in half of M and L, from 25 to 5 draw a straight line, fnun 
6 to :^5 draw a line with round stick to meet the straight line on the Lireast line 
The curve from 25 to G shall not be very round in order to correspond with I he- 
straight line of the back from 25 to 5, this completes the french seam at the back. 
Now begin the french seam at the front; in order to begin take half of and U, 
makes 32, now allow 3/8 on both sides to 33 and 34 for a full seam to correspond 
with the back shoidder. Draw a line from 33 to 37 which is lost to 18 and 23, tJiis 
makcd the outside front, from 34 draw a line to 38, from 34 to 38 is a pHralk;! 
line, this space shall be 3/4" parallel space between the two lines 33 and 34, 37 and 
38. Now curve at 38 to 37 crossing the connection at 37 down to 19, 20 and 24, 
this completes the french seam in front. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



28 




29 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

L E ^' ,S N (I . 

FOURTEEN GORE GARMENT 
The foundation of this diagram is the same as the others, now we begin tlie 
differnt actions, from, S to X is ]/12 of size or 1 - 1/3 inches from R to Z is 1 more 
inch or 2 - 1/2 inches, from X to 3 is one-half inch, from Z to 2 is 3/1 of an iueli 
lapped back for the hip increase. From 3 to 10 is also 1 - 1/2 inch, from 2 to 3!i is 
also 2 - 1/2 inches.. .Now mark from 10 to 9 again a 1/2 inch from 39 to 40, 3/4 of 
an incli. The difference in the spaces between the hip and waist is always 1 inch, 
if the gore measures on the hip line 2 - 1/2 inches it measures on the waist 1 - 1/2 
inch. Now divide the shoulder for two seams, before we place the seams in place, 
we allow from M to 34, 3/4 of an inch on one seam as on diagram .5 and after we 
divide for the shoulder seam^. From L to 43 is 2 inches, from 34 to 44 is also 2 
Indies, now couTiect straight lines from 43 to X and from 44 to 10. After complet- 
ing the straight lines draw curved lines from 3 to 43 and from 9 to 44, these curved 
lines shall meet on the breast line with the straight lines, now make the lines from 
the waist to hip as follows : From X to Z, from 2 to 3, from 10 to 39, and from 9 
to 40, now take half of H and X makes G, alfeo half of 9 and 15 makes 7, now draw 
a line from5, 6, 7 and 8 from 6 to 5 is one inch wp, now decrease the waist part at 
7 and increase the hip at ®, now both sides of 7 take out 3/4 of an 
inch to 4 and 14, booth sides of 8 also 3/4 of an inch to 11 and 12, now 
cross lines from 6 to 4 and 14 also from 4 to 11 and from 14 to 12 this finishes the 
side seami, now we begin in the front, from 15 to 16 is always 1 inch for tignt fitting 
garments, from 18 to 19 is 1 - 1/2 inch and from 18 to 21 is 2 - 1/4 inches, this 
part of the garment is also the same for all tight fitting garments. Now Ijegin the 
darts in front, to have a proportional raise up for the darts, we divide N to 16 which 
makes 23, also from 1 to 22 makes 24, now cross a line from 23 to 24. Measure 
from 24 to 25, 2 - 1/2 inches and from 25 to 2G, 3 inches, now make these spaces 
on the wailst line with a 1/4 inch more than on the top line, from 22 to 27 is 2 - 3/4 
inches, and from 2T to 28 is 3 1/4 inches now draw lines from 2."i 
to 27, also from 26 to 28, 30. Now decrease the waist in front, buth 
sides of 27 and 28, from 27 to 31 is 1/4 inch, and from 27 to 32 is a 
1/2 inch, from 28 to 35 is a 1/2 inch and from 28 to 36 is 2 inches, from 29 to .")! 
is a 1/4 inch also 30 to 52 is a 1/4 inch, now draw lines from 25 to 31 down to o'K 
draw lines from 25 to 32 and 51, from 26 to 35, 52, from 26 to 36, 37. At this ]>art 
of the garment be very cari'ful, dnnv a parallel lino l'i-om 35 to 3T and square a line 
down to 38, from 37 to 38 shall be 6 inches, also from 16 to 42, now connect 42 to 
38 with a cuiTed line. Now begin to make the frencli seams in front, in order to 
begin measure the space at back from L to 43 and make the same from to -15, 
now measure from 44 to 34 and make the same from to 45, now measure from 

44 TO 34 and make the same from U to 46, now allow from 45 to 20 3/S of art inc^ 
and ri-iim 46 to 17 also 3/8 of an inch. Now this space from 17 to 20 will match 
the widlli of 43 and 44, now draw lines from 20 to 25, 17 to 26, draw lines from 

45 1(1 2.") and from 46 to 53. Xow curve the lines from 45 to 25 as shown on dia- 
gram to 31 and 50 with a straight line, again froni 20 to 25, 32 and 52. From 46 
to 54 connecting with 26, 36, 37 and .'iS, now ciii\e tlic bottom frou; '>t l( -"il, 50 
and 49, 49 is a 1/2 inch up from 48. 

'J'his comiiletes the 14 gore fitting. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



30 




LessDii 6 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 7 . 

18 GOEE TIGH'J' FITTING GAEMENT. 

Tlie foundation of this garment is the same as the 14 goPe lie dit- 

ference in tliis draft is that this has one more seam running across the shoulder. 
Xow begin to work at the back, from R to Z is 2 - i^ inches, from S to X is 1 inch 
less or 1 - l/-± inches, between X and 3 is 1/4 of an inch, from Z to 2, 5/S of an 
inch lapped over to tlie back, from 3 to 4 is 1 - 1/2 inch, from 2 to 11 is 2 - 1/2 
inches, this makes gore 2. From 4 to 5 ib 3/8 of an inch and from 11 to 12 is 5/8 
of an inch. From 5 to 6 is 1-1/2 inches and from 12 to 13 is 2-1/2 inches. This 
completes gore 3. From 13 to 14 is 5/8 of an inch, from 6 to 7 is a 1/2 inch, now 
begin to divide the back shoulder from L to 43 is 1-1/2 inch, and from 34 to 44 
is also 1-1/2 inehete, now take half of 43 to 44 which makes M, now draw straight 
line from 43 to X, from M to 4, from 44 to 6, now make curved lines with the round 
stick from, 43 to 3, from M to 5 and from 44 to 7, this completes the french seams. 
at the back, now begin the side bodiefe, from 7 to 8 divide, makes 9, divide also 
from I to Ni makes 6. Now draw a line from 6 to 9 and 15, from G to 5 is 3/4 of an 
inch up to the arm hole, now take out on the waist line on Ijoth sideb of 9, 55 and 
56-1/2 inches and allow on the hip line from 15 to 16 and 17, 3/4 of an inch, now 
draw lines from 5 to 55 to 56 which is the waist line, now from 55 to 17 and from 
56 to 16, from G to N - is the same as the other drafts which is 3/4 of 

an inch, from 8 to 10 is 1 inch, now maJie 1/4 inch space from N to the front way 
of arm hole and draw a line to 10. From E to 19 is 1 inch, now draw line from 
10 to 19. The foundation of the front is the same as other tight fitted fronts only 
the french seams are planned the same way as on the back of this diagram, at the 
beginning we fiiift make the outlmes for the darts, from X to 10 take half which is 
23. 24 is half of 1 to 25, sow cross a line from 23 to 24 this shows the length of the 
dJarts raising up, now measure the spaces for the darts, from 24 to 30 is 2 inches, 
the same is from 20 to 21 and from 21 to 22, now measure the spaces on the waist 
line, from 25 to 26 is- 2-1/4 inches the^-same is from S6 to 27 and 28, now take 
out between 26 and 29 a 1/4 inch, from 27 to 30 is 1/2 inch, from) 28 to 31 is 1-1/2 
inches, now draw lines from 20 to 26 down to 46, from 21 to 27 down to 48, from 
22 to 28 down to 35. Xom- draw lines from 20 to 29 and 47, from 21 to 

30 and 48, from 22 to 31 and 36. Measure from 28 to 35 and malce the same from 

31 to 36, now connect 10 to 19 with 6 inches and curve 19 to 36, now, curve from 
35 to 48, 45, 47, 46, to 32, 32 is a 1/2 inch curved up from 50, from 46 to 47 is 1/8 of 
an inch. Now begin the french seams at the front, from to 37 ibthe same as 
from Jj to 34, from U to 38 is the same as from 34 to 44, now divide the space from 
37 to 38 makes 39, now draw a line from! 39 to 21, now measure, the space from M 
tn 43 and 44 and make the same from 39 to 4° 41. Now cross lines from 41 to 20 
;iiil 40 to 22, now cross a line from 37 lost to 20 as this place of the garment shall 
ii:it lip increased for ibe l)ust effect. Now draw a 'line from 36 to 58, the space be- 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



32 



tweeii '.''.' aiiil -'18 >:liall Ix' tlie ilduljle aiiinunt of IjS aucl 40 as the luii-t is only in- 
creased on this pni-t of the garment. 

Now hegin to curve from :^', to 20, U and -Ki, from A 1 to 20, 20 and -tT from 
Tl!)' to 21, 27, 45 again from ?,'.K 21, ISO and 48, from 40 to 22, 28 and ;3o, from 38 
to 58, 31 and 3(5, wl;eu cutting out this garment seams shouhl he allowed on the 
hack, lioth sides of ;M, II down to the waist lost, also at the front 38 to 10, also 37" 
and 41 lost to the waist line. This completee the 18 gore tight fitting garment. 




Lesson 7 



33 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

HALF FITTING GARMENT. 
LESSON 8. 

This garment begins tlie same way as the others, with the exception 
of its style, which is half fitted; this diagram is also followed by the same 
measurement as all other drafts. 

To begin, measure the depth of natural waist length and hip lengtli 
at A, B, C to D as all others ; from B to G aiid D to E "is 2/3 of 
size, or 12 inches; now divide B to G which makes H; from H to I is 1 l/l 
inches. Now draw a line from I to J, this is the width of back line ; from 
A to K is 1/6 of size, or 3 inches ; from K to L is 1 inch. Draw a line from 
L to J and M to I. Now take half of M and I which makes 25 ; N is 1 inch 
below 25 ; from M to N is the arm-hole at the back. Then take half of I 
and H which makes 26. Take a straight stick from J against 26, and draw 
a line at the same time from 26 to V, and make a mark at 4, which is on 
the hip line, from 4 to 2 is 1 inch, and from V to 3 is also 1 inch. Now cross 
a line from 3 to 4, from 3 cross a line between 1 and 26 ; 21 is 1/2 inch ; 
raise up at the side body from N for a seam allowance. From G to 5 and 
E to 6 is 3/4 of an inch ; this 3/4 of an inch is here planned the opposite 
way than the tight-fitting garment ; the 3/4 of an inch space is not used, as 
this garment is cut with one side body, and w^e only occupy one seam in- 
stead of two. To make this clearl)^ understood, between the tight- and half- 
fitting, for a tight fitting this 3/4 of an inch is increased for a seam ; for a 
half fitting this 3/4 of an inch is decreased, as we do not need the seam lor 
this garment, as the garment has one gore less than the tight-fitting gar- 
ment. Now begin the front; from 8 to 9 is 3/4 of an inch; from 6 to 14 is 
1 inch ; from E to 23 is 3/4 of an inch. Then cross lines from G to 9, from 
9 to 14, and from 7 to 23. Begin the front shoulder from O to T; cross a 
line from O to 24, the front shoulder; this is always the same width as the 
back shoulder. Draw a line from 24 to F for the front arm-hole. Now 
measure the bust ; from T to U is half of bust measurement ; from U to 1 
is 3 inches, for seams. Cross a square line from 1 to 22 ; from Y to Z is 3/4 
■of an inch; this is half of the regular allowance. From Y to 12 is 2 1/4 
inches always. Now cross lines from 9 to 12 and from 1 to Z and 20 : from 
20 to 13 is i/2 inch. 

Now begin the dart : X is half of F and 1. Measure 1 to X and take 
the same from Z to 28. Now cross a line from X to 28, 15 and 11. Then 
divide X to 15 which makes 10. This is the line for the dart in front. The 
dart for half-fitting garments is a half decrease, as the tight-fitting garment, 
from 15 to 16 is 1/2 inch; from 15 to 17 is 1 1/2 inch. Now cross a straight 
line from 10 to 16 and 18, also from 10 to 17. Then cross a parallel line 
from 15 to 27 and draw a straight line down to 19; from 27 to 19 should 
be the same as from 16 to 18. All outlines are now ready. Begin to curve: 
from A, L, M, to N; from N to V and 2; this completes the back. Now 
begin the side body from 21 to 3 and 4. also from 21 to 5, 7 and 23, and bot- 
tom from 4 to 23. Then begin the front: from G, 9, 14 and 19 the arm-hole, 
from G to 24 and shoulder to O; from O to W, 1, Z and 13 to 18. as shown 
on diagram. 

Tliis completes the haii-fitting jacket. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



34 




18 u 31 



Lesson 8 



35 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

HALF FITTING JACKET, FliENCH tiEAM, BliUAD BACK. 

L E S S N 1) . 

This gannont is drafted by all means the same ^^•ay as I lie first half fitting 
jacket, this draft changes at the French seams. Begin the same way, from J draw a 
line straight against the half space between H and 1 down to 1 also mark the hip 
at 4 the same time. From 4to 2 is 1 inch, now cross a line from lto2, from 1 to 3 
is 1 inch, now cross a line from 4 to 3, from 3 to J make a round curve to meet the 
.-traight line between H and I. From M to N is 3/4 of an inch allowed for the 
-rams which arc ]daccd at J, this seam is not placed in the eenti.T of the slioiilder, 
as the back of this garment is broad. 

Fi-om' C to 5 is 3/4 of an inch, also from E to 6 is 3/4 of an inch, connect 
with a line from 7 to 23, from 8 to 10 is 3/4 of an inch, from 6 to 14 is also 3/4 
of an inch, now cross lines from c to 10, from 10 to 14. Now measure the bust as 
always, frm T to U is 19 1/2 inchefe,. half of bust measurement 39, from* U to V 3 
inches for seams, now cross a square line from V do^ni to 22, Y is the waist line, from 
JY to Z is 3/4 of an inch, from Y to 12 is 1/8 of size or 2 1/4 inches for a 3G size. 
Now cross a line from V to Z and 20, also from 10 to 12; from 10 to 12 is the 
long waist line; also correct from 10 to 14 6 inches and draw a line from 14 to 20. 
Now mark the dart line as always, hdce lialf of F to V, which makes X, now 
measure A' to X and hd<e tlie same anunmt from Z to 39. 'Now cross a line 
from X to 39 down to the bottom, 11. X"ow take out for the dart line on the long 
waist line both sides of 15. First take halfof 39andX which makes 25, from 15 to 16 
is a 1/2 inch, fromj 15 to, 17 is 1 1/2 inches, now cross lines from 25 to IG and 25 to 
17, from 11 to 22 is 3/4 of an inch, cross a line from 16 to 22, now cross a jtirallel 
line from 16 to 17 and square line down from 40 to 19,nowmeasurethespacefroni 16 
to 22 and place tli e s-nnc amount from 40 to 19, now connect 19 to 14 with a curve, 
now begin to make tlie french seam in front, measure first shoulder in front, from 
to 24 shall be the same as from L to !M, now measure from J to N at the back, and 
place, the same to the front from 24 to 30. Now again measure the back shoulder 
from L to J, and place the same at the front shoulder from to 29, now cross a line 
from 29 to 25 nnd froni, 30 to 58, tliese 2 lines shall be parallel. 

The. buttons stand I'm- a half litting jai-ket. 1 1/2 inche-. the collar i'ov this 
garment is also drafted llie ~anie way a~ '.niy ollu'i- jacket. 

The cairving For this garment is also the same as all other iliofts. 

The arm-hole -hall be curved very full as the first half fitting jacket Tiiis 
completes the half fitting jacket witli a french seam and broad back. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



36 




37 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



HALF FITTING FEENCH SEAM WITH NAEBOW BACK. 

LE S SO N 10 . 

This garment is cut the same way as lesson 9 this garment changes with a 
narrow back at the waist and the hip lines. The beginning of this garment is the 
same as th^ others, from D to R is 1 1/2 inches and from C to S is 3 inches, from R 
to 2 is 1/6 of size and 1/2 inch or 3 1/2 inches for a 36 size, from S to 1 is 1 inch 
less thanfrom R to S, this 2 1/2 inches from S to 1, from 2 to 4 is 3/-1 of an inch, 
from 1 to 3 1 1/2 inch, now cross lines from 2 to 1 and from 4 
to 3, now divide the back shoulder at the back from L to N makes 30, 
now connect a line from 30 to l'^ at the waist line, also from 3 to 30 with a round line 
this makes the side hod}', at the back side body, from 5 to 27 is L/4 of an inch, from 7 
to 9 is a 1/2 inch, now duaw^a line from 27 to 9 and from 9 to 23,this place from 5 
to "27 3^*i 7 to 9 is only taken out, if more shaping is wanted than the regular half 
fitting garment, otherwise this garment is the same as the other half fittings. 

The french seam at the front shoulder shall be divided the same way 
as the back, the dart is also the same as in the other half fitting garments. This com- 
pletes the half fitting garment french seam with narrow back. For back without 
seam, take 3/8 of an inch off at A also from R as shown on the diagram and cross 
a line, 37 is the straight line • at the waist, now measure from S to 1 the width of 
back on the waist line, measure thife space and place it fromi 27 to 26 and draw 
lines from 26 to 2 and xip to 30 to the back shoulder. Th^ side body remains as 
aJways, the traced line shows the changes made for the seamless back and the other 
is showing the back with the seam, this completes^ the back without the seam. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



38 




Lesson 10 



39 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



HOW TO MAKE A LOST DAKT m FEONT. 

LESSON 11 . 

The lost dart can be adopted to any garment wanted. As a practical point 
I shall recommend this lost dart for half fitting ; garments onlj% for tight fitting 
garments this dart is not sufficient and _ a larger amomii cannot work. To be- 
gin we allow from Z to Y 2-1/4 inches as always, and nqf allowance ife mlade ia front 
except the bottom stand. The dart line is miade in front the same way, from F to 
Y take half of X now measure from X to V and take the same amoimt from Y to N, 
this is on the long waist. Now divide from N to X makes K, now take out both 
sides of N, from JT to I is a 1/^'oi an inch, from N to 2 is 3/4 of an inch. Now 
draw Lost lines from K and L, again from M, K, R to L. Tliis completes 
tl;c front with the lost dart. 



THE HALF FITTING JACKET WITH A DART ON TOP. 

LESSON 12 . 

These two front parts are cut out from the half fitting f reach seam jacket, 
when having these two parts cut out, miark out the front part I, from I, J. K, 
L, M, N, to 1. Now lap the inside front part over the outside part from N to H 
with 3/4 of an inch and mark out the outside part from 0, D, C, A, B, E, P to 
0, from G to F and from H to M, the dart on top as from to I> and from X to 
1 or between D and I. 

This completes the half fitting front with a dart on top. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



40 



n 



Leison 1 2 ^ 



Q 



O 




41 HALF FITTING GARMENT. 



DRESS SACK WITH A SHAWL COLLAR. 

LESSON 13. 

This garment is built uii the hah'-htting foundation; the garment ful- 
fills the requirements of the two-part jacket. To begin: We draw the same 
outlines as always from A to B ; C and D is the depth — natural waist length 
and hip length. The width of back is built the same way ; 1 is the width 
of back line and G is the regular box line ; divide from I lo G which makes 
N. Now draw a line from N to R and 2 ; take both sides of N, 3/4 of an 
inch at 4 and 5 ; both sides of R, 2 inches at 20 and 31 ; from 2 to 3 is 1 inch. 
Then cross lines from 4 to 21 and 2; also from 5 to 20 and 3. This com- 
pletes the side seam. The garment requires an underarm seam ; this under- 
arm seam- is lost to the pocket. To mark the place for the pocket draw a 
line down from F to 2 inches below the waist line. Draw a line somewhat 
slanting to the front ; now measure the pocket. The center of the pocket 
to 17 is 2 1/2 inches, and to 18 is also 2 1/2 inches; so the pocket measures 
5 inches. 

Begin to mark the underarm seam: from G to 10 is 1 inch, and from 
18 to 11 is also 1 inch; draw a straight line from 10 to 11, and shape both 
sides as shown on diagram. The st)de of this garment does not require any 
dart and, therefore, there is no allowance in front on the waist line. The 
button standard for this garment is 1 1/2 inches, as for all half-fitting gar- 
ments. This garment is cut with a shawl lapel. To begin, shape the neck 
for the garment very low from O to W down. Mark the opening at 6, then 
draw a line from 6 to 12 ; from O to 12 is 1 inch for the collar stand ; from 
12 to 13 is 1/6 of size, or 3 inches; from 13 to 14 is 1 inch; draw a line from 
14 to O. Now measure from 13 to 15, allowing 2 1/2 inches for width of 
collar. Then draw a parallel line from 15 to 19, and curve from 19 to G 
for the original shawl lapel. 

For the top collar draw a line from 14 to 22, and curve all around 

14, 13, 15, 9, 19 and 23. This is the top collar. The under collar is from 

9, 15, 13, 14, O and W, to 24. The top collar should be traced out before 

the front is cut out. and curve the side body before cutting out the pattern. 

This completes the dress sack with a sliawl collar. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



42 




Lesson 13. 



43 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



ETON COAT 

LESSON 14. 

The Eton is built on tlie same oxit-lines as all other garments, these garments 
are planned to natural waist length only. From A to B is 7" depth, from A to C 
is 1.5-1/3" natural waist length, now draw lines from A to W and from B to K, from 
C to V. Now make the box-lines the same as the others, from B to 6 is 2/3 rds. of 
si^e or 12 inches, and from C to El is also 13", draw, a line from E to G and up to 
top line, now divde B and G which makes H, frora, H to I is 1-1/1", draw a line 
from P to.Q, from Q to P ite 1/6 of size or 3", froml P to is also 1/G of size or 3", 
from- P to W is also 1/G of size or 3", and a seam allowed. From C to S is 2". 
draw a line from 8 to A, now connect line from the front neck point to t!ic 
back depht T. Measure the back shoulder from L to M and make the same from O 
to U, draw a line to F, now take half of I and G which makes N, from X to .5 or i'> 
is 3/4" on both sides, draw a straight line from down from N to make 7, from 7 
to E to 10 is 2 1/3 incha;. Now connect lines from 5 to 10 and froml (I to E, the 
lenght of waist ?hal be made sliorter inbaek for this garment by a half inch as shown 

on diagram, as 8 to D — ■ — 10 to 4 E to 9 '. Now measure the bu?t, 

from T from T to S is 19 1/2" this is 39 bust measure, from S to E there ite 3 inches 
inehefei for seams, now make a stright line down, from E to V and Y, from '\' Id Y 
is 1/2 of size or 2 1/4 inches this makes a long waist in front Fronii ? to Z is ^/4 
inches, this space is only raised, up in order to get the close tight fitting neck. l*"i'<)iu 
Z to 1 is one inch for button stand, from R to S iS also one inch, from Y to X is also 
one inch for button stand. , 

Now curve both lines from Z, K, V and Y, this line is the depht of front 
and 1 to X is 1 inch, the lines for button stand. Curve this the same as the inside 
iine from Z to Y. For hook and eye front use the depth of this front without t)ie 
b^itton stand and for buttoning purposes including the 1 incli space used outside 
line from 1 to X Xnw we begin to curve, froni A, Tj. to il, M to 5 also curve on 
both sides of the side Imdy tn -1 nnd (1 to 9. Xnw curve the arm-hole from G to 14, 
14 to (i and round up to U. Frdin U to O is tlie front shoulder, the two shoulders 
should 1)0 should 1» curved alike, now cur\x' he neck from to Z and the book for 
buttoning from Z to 1. Xow curve the^ bottom of the waist from D to 4, liallow out 
a small amount as shown on diagram from 10 towards Y. We curve at Z a 1/3 
inch up and finish up to X. This eoinplotes the Eton Coit witliont ■;iny ilart iu 
front, til is will make n loose finii lUid no gathering is required. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



44 




Lesson 14. 



45 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



ETON WITH IWKT IN FRONT. 

LESSON 15. 

This draft is made the same way as tlie first Eton, the front of this Eton 
is clianged so as to the dart. From V to X allow 3/4 of an inch, from V to Y is the 
same as) the first draft 2 1/2 inches, draw a line from R to X down to 14, now in or- 
der to get the dart in front, we divide the dhest F to E makes S, now measure tlie 
space from E to S and take samel from 14 to 2, divide from Z to S raakete 1, make the 
dart, from Z to 2 is 1 inch, from Z to 3 is 2 inches. Now draw lines 1 to 3, now me- 
asure from 1 to 2 and make the same from 1 to 15, now curve from 1 to 3 and ] to 
15, also from 10 to 15 and from 2 to Y up to 14 as show diagram. Take special 
notice for the way of curving this dart, this is rounded out instead of shaping to the 
part of gore from 1 to 15 and from 1 to 2. 

Now curve carefully the front from W to E X and 14, from 2 to 14 
curve up aB shown on diagram, this front has no button stand. 

This completes the Eton Coat with a dart in front. • 



ETON WITH A FEEiNCH SEAM. 

L E S N 1 G . 

The french seam eton is by all means drafted with the same out-liia-- 
36 the first and second eton, this draft only changes with the french seams 
on front and back. To begin the frenctli seamis divide the back shoulder from 
Ij to M makes 10, now divide at the bottom from D to 4 makes 9, now draw 
a line somewhat round, this is the place for the french seams. Now begin 
tftlie front, divide from to IT makes 11, now connect a line from 11 -to the 
dart connection at 1. When cutting this pattern, allow seams on both jiavts 
from 11 to 1, 2, 3, both ]iartls otherwi.se all scamis are aJllowed. 

This completes the eton witli the french seams. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



46 



Lesson 1 5 




Lesson 16 



47 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 1 7 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 48 

KTOX FU'dNT WITH A DAIM' (J\ TOl". 

/. !•: s s X 1 r . 

This |iall('i'ii is i ii( mit 'Vnin a Civiu-li seam eton, out siile ami iiKside 
front parts. 

'W) lifuiii this, mai-k out ihc front part 1 from H. T, J, G, to H, \dien 
tlii>l'ioiit[)art is markril out. plai-o tlie iuside front, ])aTt 2 over the outside front 
\Yidii 3/i inch left over from J to C and N" to 0, this 3/4 of an inch is reduced a« 
we do not want any seams at tliis place. Now mark the other parts of the insid.e 
front;, from 1), V., all arouml the arm liole (o A, B, C, M, to D. N"ow 
finish the bottom, till in the break at J, curve from B to F, now allow scams at the 
dart, from D to \i is 3/8 of an inch, also from K to 1, now draw lines L to M anil 
K to M, this will complete the Eton front with the dart on top. 



B L () USE. 

L E S S ON IS. 

The l.ilouse is planned on the same foundation lines the other drafts, ivom 
A to B is 7 inches depth, from A to C 15 1/2 inches natural waist lenglit, cross lines 
from A to W, from B C now begin the box lines, from B to G ia 2/3rds of 

the size 13 inclies also C to E, now divide from B to G makes H, from H to I is 
l-J/4 inch. Xow raise a line from I to J, now measure from A to K 1/G of size or 

3 inches, from K to L is always 1 inch, now cross a line from L crossing at J 
to M. II is the width of shoulder, the proper way to get M is by maldng a 
square line from L to J, M to meet at I, now begin to draft the line, from C to D 
is always 2 inches, now cross a line D to A, this completes the incline of the body. 

'Xow begin the front, fron^ G to F is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, now raise a line 
from F to Q, from Q to F is 1/G of size, ateo from P to is 1/6 of size or 3 
inches, now cross a line from to T, T is at the depth point in back this line gives 
the front shoulder, in order to hm-e the proper w'idth of shoulder in front, measure 
the back shoulder first from L to M and the same to U. Now draw a line 
from U to F for the front arm hole, now measure the bust, from T to S is half of 
bust 19-1/3 inches foi; 39 bust measurement, and from S to E is 3 inches for seams, 
and draw a line from W to R and XX Xow divide the space from 1 to G makes X. 
draw a line from X to 7, now take out both sides of X 3/4 of an inch at 5 and 6 at 
the waist line both sides of 7 take out 3 inches at 4 and 9, nowl cross lines from 5 to 

4 and from 6 to 9 fter having all lines we shorten the length of waist as shown lui 
the diagram, from D to 8, from 8 to 4, from E to 9 is 1/2 inch up or shorten in 
waist length. Xow begin to curve from A to L, from L to M, from M tn .1 the hack 
arm hole, from 6 begins the front ami hole raise up a seam allowance I'lnui r, as 
showTi on the diagram and curve' to G and, U this is the front arm hole, rmm <) tn V 
make the same curve as from L to M, now curve the front neck froui () to W, the 
front for this garment shall be full, there is no shape only a straight line is needeii. 
now curve the side seam from 5 to 4 and 6 to 9. Xow curve the htittmn from S to 
4 and from 9 to XX, the bottom curve of the front shall cirel'ully he followed as 
shown on the diagram, this completes the blouse. 

This diao-ram is the foundation for all lilouse ef?ect garments. 



49 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



TUmC SKIRT. 

LESSON Id. 

This draft is not connected with any other skirt draft, this skirt is usual for 
all short garments cut to the natural waist line, or for tunict effect garments. Mea- 
surements are as followB : — 35 inch Waist, 42 inch Hip, 12 inch front length. To 
begin we draw a sjjuare line from A to D and from A to C, now measure from A to 
D half of waist 12-1/2 inclies, from D cross a line up to E. 6 inch- 
es and cross to F. ilark from A to B 6 inches for the liip line, foim A to C is full 
length of this skirt 12 inches, now take half of F to E makes K, from K to L is 
1-1/2 inches, now curve from F to L iip to E. 'Xow follow with a curve from G to 
H parallel with the curve of F, L and E, now curve the, same way from C to I, now 
measure the space which is from A to F, now take half of tliis from B to G, now 
cross a line from F to G and C, C is full length, now measure half of hip from G 
to H, now cross a line from E to H and I, from E to I is the length in back. The 
skirt can be made to any length wanted. Cross a line from F against B to reach jST, 
this line is drawn after the draft is all eomulete, F B iN" is the front part of this 
ekirt and E H I is the back part of this skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



50 




51 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



HOW TO DRAFT A BUTTERFLY SLEEVE. 
L E S SOX 20. 

This draft is started the same way as all other drafts with the exception that 
tliis ilraft changed regaa-diug the biitterflj- sleeve at the side length. To begin we 
draw all lines as usual. A to B is 7 inches length depth. A to C is 15-1/2 inches 
natural waist length. Xow cross lines A, B, C, from B to , G and C to E. Now 
connect line from ft up towards IT. Divide B to 6 makes H. From H to I is 
1-1/ 1th inches. Raise up a line from I to J. Now make from A to K 1/6 of the 
size, or 3 inches. From K to L is 1 inch alwaj-B. From C to S is 2 inches. 

Now comiect line from A. Now place the square from L against J to meet 
I and which will make M. il is the proper width of shoulder at the back. 

Now we go further to the front part, from G to F is l/6th of the size or 3 
inches. From F to Q raise a line up from Q to P is l/6th of the size or 3 inches, 
the same as from P to 0. Now connect a line from to T which will give the 
foundation line for the front shoulder. 

Now measure from L to M which the back shoulder and place the same from 
to H for the front shoulder. Now measure from T to S 1/2 of bust which is 20 
inches for 40 bust. From S to E is 3 inches for seams allowed. Now finish the 
front neck and make from P to W l/6th of the size and from W to 1 divide 3/Sths 
for the seam ; from 1 to Z is 3/4ths of an inch raised up. Now draw a line from Z 
against R down to 6. From V to X is 3 inches or l/6th of the size. 

Now begin to draw lines for the butterfly sleeve, divide between I and F 
which makes N ; draw- a straight line down from N to 7 and majce between N to G 
and N to 5 1/2 of an inch on both sides of 7. From 7 to 9 and from 7 to 4- is 2in 
ches. Now draw a line from 5 to 4 and from G ot 9. Now before we go any fur- 
ther with the butterfly sleeve, we shall decide about the deepness of armhole for tlie 
luitterflv sleeve. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



52 



Lesson 20 




Lesson 21 



53 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



The deepness for the butterfly sleeve is to be decided between 6 and E. 
With this diagram is shown we have l/4th of depth armhole which is from G 
to 11. This is l/4th' of the side length which will make 2 l/8th inches. iXow cross 
a line from M to 2, froniil to 2 is 12 inches increased direct for the but- 
ierfly sleeve outside length. This length can be made in any amoimt wanted. Now 
cross a square line down from 2 to 3 ; this space betwees 2 and 3 cannot be decided 
unless the measurement is taken parallely from 12 up to the top line is about 8-1/2 
inches. Now take this amount of 8-1/2 inches and measure from 2 to 3 and con- 
nect 3 to 12. This completes diagram of butterfly sleeve on the back. 

In order to begis the front of the butterfly sleeve, allow from T to 13, 3 
inches in order to increase the width of butterfly sleeve in the front and connect 13 
to U which is the front shoulder. Now correct from U towards 13 the same length 
as we have of M to 2 which is 12 inches, and place the same from U to 1-1. Now 
measure parallel again from 11 against the top line of front sleeve wliich is from U 
to T which will make abot 7-1/2 inches and place the same from T to 15. Now 
Connect 15 to 11 and curve from 15 to 14 which completes the front butterfly 
sleeve. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 54 



HOW TO CUT OUT KIMOO SLEEVE TO MAKE IT ONE PIECE. 

LESSON 2 1. 

To cut out this butterfly sleeve, we first cut out the back, from A to D aud 
from D to 4. At D and 4 we have this garment somewhat ehortened at the waist 
as shown on the' diagram between 8 and 4, that is about 1/2 of an inch shorter. Now 
cut out further as from 4 to 13, 3, 2, J, L to A, this is the back. Now cut out 
the front. Begin at 0, Z, R, XX, from G to XX is 1 inch, X to 9 up to 11, from 
11 to 15, from 15 to 14, from 14 to U up to 0, this is the front cut out. 

Now begin to place the two patterns together is order to make the one piece 
butterfly eleeve. Make all around first tlie back part from A, B, C, D, E, F, G, 
now make a parallel mark as shown on the diagram, from G to H, J out to F and 
place the front part to H, J which is the width of the shoulders. Further out as 
from J to K the front part must not meet a 3/4th of an inch parallel space as they 
cannot meet. ^Now mark further from K to L, M, N, 0, P up to H. Now correct 
the neck, from A, X is 1/2 of an inch lower to be cut out in order to gett his cut 
begin to curve from P to E and finish at X. The back of this draft is cut with 
fullness on the bottom between B and C, m order to take off fullness at the bottom 
where broken lino is, from C to S connect X, as from S to B is an increase 
of fulness, this completes tliis leason. 



55 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



HOW TO MAKE A BUTTERFLY SLEEVE WITH ITXDEH ARM SLEEVE. 

LESSON 22. 

For this draft use the regular oue piece butterfly sleeve. See diagram. 
Kjis center of neck. Connect lines from K to G and from K to D, from F to N, G 
to 0, and from E to L, D to M is 1-1 /4th of an inch space. Now cut out this 
piece from N, F, 0, G and E, L to D M, and place them as shown next to diagram 
and meet them as shown, D, G, P, and mark all aroimd, N", 0, M, L. Allow a full 
Spuare from M, up to A as shown on the diagram and after allow 1/3 of an inch 
seam all around on this diagram and when this under arm piece Is cut out as 
0, N, and M to L and this will give you the proper and comfortable action for a 
butterfly sleeve. 

HOW TO MAIvE A RAGLAN STYLE BUTTEEFLY SLEEVE. 
LESSON 23. 

Use the same one piece butterfly sleeve as before. Draw the same lines 
from K to G, and M to D. Now take 1/2 from K to G which makesM. From M 
to JST is 1 inch. Now divide from K to D which makes 0, and from to P is 1 
inch. Cuiwe as shown on the diagram, from K, to G, from K to P and D. 

Now cut and allow seams of all parts, otherwise this diagram is complete. 

S. P. — For all drafts on this buttei-fly sleeve or changes for butterfly 
sleeves we have seams allowed at the diagram as usual. Wherever special 
seams are needed. I will mention to do so. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



56 



Le$son 22 





Lesson 23 



57 



THE P 11 A C T I C A L DESIGNER 




HOW TO CUT A YOKE. 



LESSON 24 



The y,.Ke (ail be cnt for every garment. y 

This 3'oke is placed on a regular foundation of blonse pattern. In order to 
begins raise at the back from T to Z and 1 to E, 1 1/3 inches and cross a line from Z 
to R. Now divide from E to Z which makes D. From D to K is 3/4ths of an 
inch towards tlie arm liole. 

In order to make 3 scallops, on the whole width of liack. Now connect a 
scallop surve from T to J, ^nd from J raise up a curve up to E lost to the arm-hole ; 
this makes one scallop curve from K to J, and 1/3 of a curve at T which will make 
these three scallops when the back is opened. At the front, we raise irp from F to 
E and from V to R is 1-1/3 inches. CroteS a line from 'E to R and divide 

which makes S. From S to Q is 1 inch towards the front of the armhole and 
raise a line down from Q to W. Now make a curve from E to W and from AY to 
V. This ■nail also make 3 scallops when the front is opened, allow for seams on 
both parts, upper and under parts, on the front and back. 

Seams for this part shall be 1/3 of an inch on each side in case of an over 
lap seam, allow about 3/4 of, an inch especially fortlie raising part for such. 

This diagram is completed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 58 



llUW TO DKAFT A LONG HALF FITTING lULPLESS COAT WITH A 
SHALIi COLIvAR. 

L E S S N 2 . 

To begin, to draft use the regular foundation line, and measure for the 
depth, waist and hip. The full lenght of this garment is about 43 inches. The 
width of back for this garment is the same as usual 3/4 for seams, from M to 
N are also allowed as usual, the space at the waist line for the back from 12 to 16 is 
1/G of size or 3 inches for size 36, and one more inch at the hip line which is 4 
inches from 11 to 18; between 16 and 19 is 1/2 of an/ inch; from 18 to 17 to increase 
the side body is also 1/3 of an inch. Now draw straght lines down from IG against 
.18 down t 31 which is the bottom and from 19 to 17 down to 30. At the under arm 
from G to 9 and E to 5 is 3/4 of an inch. Inside. Cross the back this this space 
is thro«ai a line from 9 to 10 against E down to 2o which is the inside side body 
towards the back. From 4 to 3 is also 1/2 of an inoli, draw a line from G to 
3 ; from 3 against 5 down to 33. The french , Beams crossing the shoulder are 
divided injialf which is at the back; from L to 'iST wliicli makes 36 and at the front 
shoulder divide from to U which is the regular width of the shoiilder built accord- 
ing to this back space or L to M. Tlie center of the front shoulder is 27. From 
27 to 37 is 3/8 of an inch, and from 27 to 36 is also. This amounts to 3/4 of an 
inch allowed for the french seams which we allowed at the back from il to N. In 
order to continue the front part, divide the front for the dart line from F toY 
which makes X. Now allow on the waist line from 6 to 3/4 of an inch, and take 
the space from Y to X at the waist line; from 7 to 30, draw a stight lline down 
from X to 30 down to 29. Now divide from 30 to X whichmakes 28; connect 



59 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



36 to 28 and draw i^arallel Hues from 37 to 38 and curve at from 38 to 28 as shown 
on the diagram on 31. The space between 30 and 31 all the way down to 29 and 32 
is 3/-1 of an inch, the buttons stand for this garment; from Y to Z is 2 1/2 
inches for single breasted top coat, the opening begins half between 
breast and waist line, tlie collar begins at the stand line which is from 
to S 1 inch. Draw a line from the opening at 2 up to S and W. From S to W is 
1/Gth of the size which is 3 and ' 1/2 iucli imore for the seam. The width 
stands from W to 23 is also 1 inch. From W to 24 is 3 inches width of the 
collar, and curve parallel to Y lost to 2 in order to get a top collar, for this garment, 
follow the broken line from 23 to XX. The outside iis the under collar. Width 
tJie lapel connect at Y. The pocket for this garment is cut bias. Start it 1 

inch below the waist line; from 31 to 34 the inside edge of the pocket which is 35 
is about 1 1/2 inches for the edge of the side body and about half way of the 
hip space. The opening of such pockets is about 5 inches, the bottom for all long 
coats shall be finished round ; order to do so, measure the space always between the 
waist down to the bottom line which is about 25 inches, whien is on this diagram 
from C to 15. Connect this 25 inch to each seam) this is from 16 to 21 from 
19 to 20 from 10 to 25 from 3 to 23 and in the front from 13 to 14 is 1-1/2 
inclics. Xow curve the bottom as shown on the diagram all searas allawcd. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



60 




Lessen 25 



61 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



SHORT BOX COAT. 

LE S S N 26 . 

This coat is drafted on.; the same foundation lines as all other garments, the 
fit of this garmentis very loose, the garment consists of two j^arts which are the 
front and back. To begin, draw all lines as usual, A, B, C, D for depth, natural 
waist length now cross all lines, from B to G and from D to E is 2/3rds. of size or 
13 inches, for this size H is half of B to G, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, now make 
connections as usual, for the shoulder. Now take half of I and G makes X, both 
Bides of IST mark 3/4= of an inch as 2 and 3. Now connect |3 to E with a tsraight 
line, now/ work the front out-lines as alwa3-s, from T to V half of bust measure and 
from V to X is 3 inches for seamj allowance. Now cross a line down in front X to 
1, now measure from 1 to o to hip, measure on 2/3rds or li-S/Sths inches for 43 
hip measure, from 5 to 6 is 2 inches for fulness, now connect a line from 6 to 2,''this 
is the side for the front, the button stand for'tliis coat is 2 inches for a fly front but- 
ton. If regular buttoning front is wanted, allow only 1 1/2 inches as for a half 
fitting jacket. The bottom packet for 'this coat is the same as for any other coat. 
The top or breast pocket begins at 19, 19 is 1 inch ^rom F, from 19 to E is 4 inches 
or a 1/2 inch I less than 1/8 of the size, the slantness of this breast pocket can be 
made to taste, from V to E is 1 inch. Tlie width of the veil is also 1 inch from 19 
to 20 or from E to' 21. Xow finish the bottom in front, from 1 to 8 is 2 inches, 
8 to 7 is the bottom stand 2 inches, now raise from E to 4 a 1/2 inch 
and curve to D, now in order to finish front measure first the back side from 3 to 4, 
and take the same from 2 to 6 with a 1/4 inch longer. Now make a lost round 
curve from 6 to 8 and 7. 

The measurements for this coat are" the same as all others. Tliis completes 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



62 




Lesson 26 



63 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



DOUBLE BEKASTEJ) AUTOMOBILE COAT. 

LESSON 37. 

Tliis garment is drafteed on the same outlines as the hox coat. 
The measurements of this garment are also the same as all others. Tli/is djaft has 
has a button stand of 1 inches for a double breasted front, from Z to W is 3/4: of 
an inch for raising up the neck of a button up neck, from W to 10 is 4 inches button 
stand, also from Z to 9, from X to Y, from 7 to 8, from 9 to 10 is 1-1/3 inch, tills 
tlie raise up for the lap over, now begon to curve the front from W to 10, 9, V, S, 
14 to 15, from, 14 to 15 is 2 inrhes. Now cut a dart at W down to 23, from W to 
23 is 3 inches, take both sides of W about 1/8 of an inch lost to 23. The out-side 
breast pocket shall mea-sure 1/8 of the size or 4 1/3 inches for this 36 size, the 
lower pocket sliall measure 1/G of the size or 6 inches for this size. The width for 
flops are not a staaidard rule, it can bo made to any width or shape wanted. 
This garment can be cut with or without a seam in back, if no seams are wanted, 
take a seam off shown on back, this coat can be shaped on the side as it sho'wn as the 
shaping at the back, from 4 to 12 and the front from 5 to 13, the other parts of 
this garment is shaped as others. This completes the automolnic top coat. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



64 




Lesson 27 



65 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



BEGULAN TOP COAT. 

L E S S N ■> s . 

This garment is drafted on the same priiu-iples as the sliort box coat alsa by 
the ?an>e iiKarurements, to begin draw all lines as usmal at A. B. C. I>. depth 
natural waist length, hip length, N is the full length of coat, from P> lo Q is 
\2l/3]Kl€«. of size or 12 inches for 3G.' H is Mf or B and G, from H to I is 

1 1/4 inches, draw a line up from I to J and lines for the slioulders as usual. 
Now divide I to G makes 4, now draw a line from 4 to E down to the bot- 
tom Ijne 11, this makes the side or back. Now measure from 4 to 5 1 1/2 

inches, now complete the front shoulder as usual, also measure the bust and 3 
inches allowed for seams to X, from X draw a straight line down to 1, this is the 
hip line. Now measure from 1 to E the hip measure and from II to 3 is 2 inches, 
now cross a line from 5 to 3 down to 13, in order to finish the bottom, take 
from 11 to 12 1 inch up and corve to N. Now measure from 4 to 13, and make 
the same from 5to 13, now allow the button stand, from X to Y and from 7 to 8 is 

2 1/2 inches, now draw a line in front from Y to 8 and 14 to 15 

Xow connect 15 to 13 with a curved line. The lapel of this garment 
is the same a.s other, from W to Z is 3 inchas, from ? Z to 10 is 2 1/2 inches, this 
space can be changed to any widthwanted, now connect 10 to Y w-itii a round line, 
the trace of the collar and lapel is showing the effect when fhc collar and lapel is 
finished. Now Ijegin the regular shoulders, first start at the back f i-om L to 4 draw a 
lime, now j)lace a square on the line halfway to meet the shoulder poont from 2 to 
M, now divide 2 and M makes G, now curve as shown on the diagram, from L to 
n down to tlio arm-hole at 4. Now begin the front shulder, from to 23 is 3/4 
inf an inch, now draw a line from 23 to the arm-hole notch at 30. 

Xow square A line across from 24 to meet the shoulder i>oint at U, now divide 
from 24 to U makes 25. Now curve from 23 to 25 and 30, this completes the 
regular slioulder at the front and back, the regular pockets are as usual, thlis top is 
marked for a flap instead of a veil as shown on diagram. The side pocket is 

marked from the regular pocket in order to begin the side pocket draw a stright 
line down from F to 32, is at the hip line and 31 is the waist line, now diviide from 
31 to 32 makes 16 whtre the regular pocket takes place. Now measure from 31 
to 20 1-1/2 inch, also from 32 to27 1-1/2 inch, now draw a line from 26 to make 
the place for the side pocket, now mark the well as shown on diagram. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



66 




Lesson 28. 



67 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



J.WEKNESS TOP COAT. 

LESSON 29. 

'I'liis garment is djaftoii on the ^^ame out-lines as tJie Ijo.x coat, to begin Ij 
make the changes of this garment, divide from I to G makes 4, now draw a line 
from -i to M, now begon tlie front, from 4 to 5 i? 1 1/3 inches, draw a line to 3 
down to 13, now divide G to W makes 16, cross a line from 16 to 17. now curve 
the frost arm hole from V lo 17, also curve the back shoulder from L to J .Al down 
with a straight line to 1,2, 12 is 1 inch up from 11. Now make the front cape, 
make a round line from the front shoulder from U to C, now sweep from C! by 
the curved line which gives 6 in front, the front of tlie cape part begins at the neck 
from Z X 8 down to 6, from 7 to 8 is 3/1 of an inch, at the front shoulder at U 
and 2 make a lost dart to 18. The button stand for this garment is 2 inches only, 
asi there is no use for any more. 

This garment here showe a button up neck, from 20 to Z is 3/4 of an inch, 
from Z to 10 is 2 inches, now curve from to Z, 10, Y, 9, from 14 ti 15 is always 
2 inches. This garment shall be cut of a full box coat, the garment has no sleeves 
as the arm-hole is not cut in tlie usual way, the arm-hole begins at U, and fisished 
at 17. The cape begins from 0, IT. 2, C around to 6 and up to 8, X, Z to 0. 

This completes the Inverness coat. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



68 




Lesson 29 



69 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



BUTTER - FLY SLEEVE CAPE. 

LESSON 3 0. 

This gariiieut is drafted on the out line or the box coat, the biitter-1'ly 
sleeve can be attached to any style of garment wanted, to begin this garment 
complete first the regular box coat, 

'J'o begin the butter-fly sleeve, divide -G to E malces W, now cro.«s a line frmn 
\^' to 9 asd 10, now cross aline from the back shonlder, L M to Y, from ^I to Y 
measure any length for the sleeve, this len.2rth is 13 inches. Now place a square 
from M to Y and draw a line down from Y to 6, from Y tov6 is the ^yidth of sleeve, 
this width cannot be measured, unlesis the space is measured, from 9 up to the top 
line of sleeve M and Y, when having this measure from Y to 6. When^ 

having the 'width from Y to 6, cross a line from 6 to 9 as the 9 is the connection 
of the back, this completes the butter-fly sleeve on the backy 

To begin the butter-fly sleeve at the front, place a square to T and U ^^^^^ 
is the front shoulder line, from T square a line out to 17, now measure from 10 
square way np to 23 and take the same amount from T to 11, now draw a line 
from 10 to 17 out to 18 in order to have the inside slee\'e length alike, measure 
from 9 to 6 and take same, from 10 to 18. Now allow from T to 7 inches as 
the front is too marrow and cross a line fromi U to 7 and 17, from U to 17 make the 
same as from M to Y, now curve from 17 to 18. Now curve the under arm-hole 
from 18, 17, 10 down to 3 and 13, this completes the front sleQve and from G to 9 
down to 13 completes the back arm hole. Now curve the front sleexe on top from 
17, 7. TJ to 0. The measurements for this garment is the same as usual. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



70 




Lesson 30 



71 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



OPERA CLOAK 



L E S S ON 3 1. 



This garaieut is drafted on the same measurements as all ttlier garments, 
in drafting this garment changes to a groat extent, this garment is only used for 
evening wear. 

To licgin draw all lines as usual, from A to B is 7 inches depth, from A 
to (' is 15 1/2 inches natural waist length, from C to D is 6 inches hip length 
and from A to E is .50 inches full length, now cross all lines from B to G and from 
D to ,T is 3/3rds. of size or 12 inches for a 3G size. Now take the width of back as 
usual, H jK half of- B and G, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, now draw a line up to 
M and extend the shoulder as usual to N, from G to * is 1/6 of size or 3 inches 
for a 36 size. Now measure the space from I to * and make the same from * to 
0, cross a line up fronii to Q, from Q to P is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, from P to 
R is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, from P to 3 is also 1/6 of size or 3 inche?, from 3 to 
4 is 3/4 of an inch. 

For this garment the bust is not measured the same way as for other 
garments, from to T measure 1/4 of the size or 9 inches for a 36 size. Now 
cross a line down from T to U, from TJ to V is 1/2 of an inch, now cross a line in 
from 4 to T, Y down to Z and W, W is 2 inches below Z, from 4 to 6 and from W 
to S LS 4 inches button stand for a double breasted front, this front can be made 
any style front wanted. Now make the front shoulder, from R to F is 6 inches 
shoulder to the line, draw a lone from F to 0, now make the circel for the globe 
a m-hole by * from to 10 and I. The space is gathered into the arm-hole, 
from to F, N and I, when the shoulder is complete. The back of this cape can be 
made cither way, without a seam or with a seam in the back, if no seam in back 
is wanted use the straight line fi'om A to E, this cape shall be cut shapy as it is 
called tlip whopple style. To draft the Whipple back, draw out a line from the 
dc])th point 2 out to the waist point 0, this increases from E to 3, now curve at 
2 as shomi on the diagram, now curve froim 3 to 8, this completes the npera cape. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



72 




Lesson 3 I . 



73 HALF FITTING GARMENT. 



THE SHOET TWO PIECE CAP^ 

L E S S N 3 2 . 

This cape is d rafted on the usual foundatiou lines and meaisureraents as 
follows:- Size 36 inches, bust 39 inolies, depth 7 inches and waist length 15 1/2 

oiu-hcs, full length 2'i inches. 

To begin ilraw the outlines as usual, from A to B is the depth, from A to 
(' is natural waist length, from C to D is 6 inches length. Now cross all lines from 
B U^ C and from 1) to E is 3/3rds. of size or 12 inches. H is half of G and B, 
f oni H to I is 1 1/1 inches, now raise a line from I to J, from A to K os 1/6 of 
size or 3 inches, K to L is 1 inch, from G to P is 1/6 or 3 inches, draw a line from 
Q up, from Q to 1' is l/(i or .'i inches, from P to is also 1/6 of size or 3 inches, 
from P to K OS 1/C of size oi- 3 inches, with 3/8 for a seam allowed to 8; from S 
to 4 is 3/1 of an inch up and <l iiw a line up to 1, now measure the bust from T to 
to 4 is 3/4 of an inch up ami d aw a line up to 4, now measure the bust from T .■ 
to X, from X to \' is 3 inches for Beam. s, now cross a line from V down to the 
waist and hip lines from Z t(^ I is a 1/2 inch. Xow cross a line from Y to W, fmni 
2 to ;i 1 1/2 inches. JSTow make the shoidder, curves begin from L lost to .1 and 
Z, now sweep the full length iif the cape at the hack by L, from D to X for the 
front make the curve from O ](»t at F down to Y, before curving the front measure 
the length from L to X and place the same from to M. Xow curve from M by 
to 2 and 3, curve the neck as shown, this coniipletes the two ])iece cajie. 



THE PRACIICAL DESIGNER 



74 




32 



A CIRCLE ('AIM 



LESSON 3 3 



To make a circle cape, cut out the back and J'rout of a short box coat, to 
begin, mark out tlie back first, from A to B is the length, A to C is the neck at the 
back, from C to D is the shoiilder width. Now connect the front shoulder to the 
back shoulder as shown on the diagram from C to D, after mark out the front neck 
from C to P also the front from F to G and all around. Now cross a line out from 
the shoulde C D to E, now begin to sweep from length of back at B by C to meet 
E and G whidi i's the length or the cape in front, this completes the short cricle 



75 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 33 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



76 




Lesson 34 



77 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

A L'llKLE CAl'K WITH A .SHOULDER i)AHT. 

L E .< S U N 3 -t . 

This I'lipe is made of tlie same pattern as the circle cape, to begin mark 
out firet tJie back pattern, \\hen the back is all marked out, connect the two shoulder 
points at E and F, from to D is 1 1/2 inches. Now mark out the front all 
ar&und, now take half of C and D makes G, now diraw a straight line from G to 
11. curve from C D to E F as shown on diagram, this makes the shoulder dart. 
Now make the circle Ijy G from B to H and J, from D to I is the front neck and 
from 1 to ,T is the front, this dart can be taken nut to any amount wanted, this 
ci'Miplctes tlic cape witli a should"r dart. 

LONG SHOLliDKl) SEAM CAPE. 

L A' .s' .s' O A' 3 5. 

This cape is also begurt the same way as the others, it also c-arries the same 
measurements, this cape shall measure from 50 - 54 iuchei; in length. To begin 
Idraw ont lines as nsual, from A to B is T inches deptln, from A to C is 15 1/2 
inches natural length, from C to 1) is G inches hip length, from A to E is 50 inches 
full length. Xow draw all out lines for the back as alwa}-^. I is the width of 
bac k line and (! is tlic regular box line. (Now draft the other out-lines for thr front 
as usual. Now measure the bust as always to Y, froni Y to X is 3 inches for seamt^ 
draw a straight line down from X to Z. From Z to 1 is 1/2 inch, crosi? a line 
from X down to the bottom 4, from 3 to 4 is 2 inches, now make the button stand 
from W; to 15, from X to 2, from 4 to 3 is 2 inches. Now make the bottom of 
this cape, the bottom of sudi garment shall be carefully considered before the 
bottom is made. The bottom width for all full length garments shall measure 
the same as the lengtli, this cape measures 50 inches in length, this 50 inches shall 
Ije divided as follows, from E to 13 shall measure 20 inches in the back, from 
!> to 12 sliall measure 30 inches, to make tliis clearly understood, divide always 
the amount in half and 5 inches less for the back, and 5 inches more for 

the front. Now draw the back side lines from 13 againist or up to M. For the 
front also from 7 up to U, now curve the back at the shoulder from L lost with 
round curve at J down to M, from 13 to 14 is 1 incli, curve 14 to E. Now the 
front from 12 to 9, in order to be surve that tlie proper lengths for the side seam, 
measure the back from L, M, down to 14 and apply the same amount to the front 
from to U to 12, it shall be 1/4 of an inch longer. Now curve the neck part 
for the front and back. This completes the long shoulder seam cape. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



78 




Lesson 33 



79 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



SINGLE BREASTED HIDING COAT. 

L E S S ON 3 6. 

This garment fe drafted on the same princijjles as the first t ight fitting 
Jacl^et, les.-on 3. (Some measurements regarding the style of the garment are 
changed, this garment is used mostly for irding purposes, the measurements for 
this garment are as follows: 

7 isches Depth, 39 bust. 

15-1/3 inches natural waist n-u-ih 25 inches Waist, 

17 1/2 inches fashionable waist longd^b. 43 inches Hip. 
30 size or cliest. 40 inches full length. 

18 incln's inside sleeve length. 

To begin we draw the out-lines the same as for the other Jackets. From 
A to B i's 7 inches depth, from A to C is 15 1/3 inches natural wa'st length, 
from A lo 1 1 is 17-1/2 inches fashionable waist length, from A to XX is 40 inches 
full length of coat, now measure from C to Z 6 inches for the regular liip line, 
Cross lines from A to AV, from B to 20, from C to 19, from D to 13, from Z to 11, 
from XX to 13, after having all lines crossed begin to make the bos as always, 
from B to G is 2/3rds. of size or 12 inches, from D to E is also the same, now 
draw a line from E G to the topliae, now divide B to G makes, H, from H to I 
is 1 1/4 inches, now raise line fro ml to J, this lise makes the width of back, from 
A to K is. 1/(3 of size or 3 inches, fromK to L is 1 inch, now connect a line from 
JI to I, now begin the front, from G to F is 1/6 or 3 inches . now draw a line from 
^F to Q. from Q to P is also 1/6 or 3 inches, from P to is also 1/6 of size or 3 
inclies, fi-om 1' to \V make also 1/6 or 3 inches for the front neck. Now make the 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



80 




Lesson 36 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



iucliiiu I'l-oiu / til 1{ 1-12 inches or 1/12 of size, frmii I' to S is 3 inche.-, imw cros- 
lines from S l<i A, aud fmin S toRanrlXX. XX is the full length nf the cmt. 
rniiii S 111 ;!t; is ■? iiiclies cuul from K to 1 1 is f! inche-. now cross a line from 3G 
to 11 down to 12, also cross a line from 3(5 up to H, from 3G to 3 is 1 inch, from 
43 to 2 is 3/8 of an inch. Now cross a line from 2 to 3 and up to H, now divide 
fiotn 11 to N makes 6, and from 3 to 4 makes 7, now draw a line from 5 to 6, 7 
and 8. now take out both sides of 7 3/4 of an inch at 9 and 10, also both sides of 
8, 3/8 of an inch, now cross lineis from both sides of 8, to 9 and 10 up to 6, from 
from 14 to E and measure from 14 to 52, 2 inches also from 21 to 22, now draw 
a line from 52 to 22, this line makes the length in front, the dart for this garment 
•-■made the name M-ay as for tight fittings, from 33 to 23 is half of chest, now 
take the same amount from 19 to 24, now draw a line from 23 to 24, 26 and 25, 
now divide 23 to 26 makes 30, from 26 to 27 is 1 inch, from 26 to 29 is 3 inches, 
now cross lines from 30 to 27 and tq 29, now allow the button stand as always, from 
33 to 20 is 1 incli and from 22 to 35 is also 1 inch, this completes the upper part 
of this uai'inent. 

Now begin tlu' skirt part, cross the front line from 33 down to 13, from 
13 to l(i is 2 incites, now cross a line from 16 to 25, from 25 to 28, and from 16 
to 17 is 1 inch space. Xow cross a line from 28 to 17, from 28 to 17 is the front 
vof the skirt part. Now square a line from 2 to 1, this is 6 inchetj hip length, now 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 82 



cross a line from 1 to 5, from 1 to 5 is l/i-.. of hip measure 43, or 1-3/4 im-h. jiow 
cross a line from 2 against 5 to 41, this space from 2 to 41 is longer witli :!/4 
inch as the space from 43 to 12, now allow from 5 to 54 3/4 of an inch for hip 
roundness, now finish the bottom of the skirt with a roimd curve from 41 to Hi 
and, 17. now begin to curve all parts of thiv? garmant, when curving watch the dia- 
gram carefully, begin at the back, from L to A connect as shown with 1/6 of size 
or :; inclies and eui've to 'i', now curve Ijoth shoulders M to 34, down to 3(! 43, this 
is the back to the fashionable waist length. At 43 to 2 also from 12 to 40 allow 1 
inch all the way do^vn tlie same way as from 46 to 47 and XX to 41, now curve the 
side body from X H 3 to 2, from 2 to 15 curve as shown, from 8 up to 50 and 51 
is a 1/2 inch, now curve the sides from 9 and 10 to 50 and 51, also from X to 4, 
15, also 14 to 52, from 52 to 31. X^ow curve the dart on front from 30 to 27, 28 
and 29, 31, from 28 to 55, 55 is 1 inch up from 35, now curve the front from 20 to 
53, 65 this completes the single breasted riding coat. 



83 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE CUTAWAY FKUXT UTDIXG COAT. 
LESSON 37. 

This front ami ^kirt is cut out from first draft of the siusle hrea~ted riding 
coat, wlieu the front is cut out, placed on the cdjif of paper straight -way. \\'itli the 
front edge at A B C' and D aud mark ot all around, when the front is all marked 
out, draw a line in front from B to C D to E, now connect; or jjlace the skirt pattern 
to the bottom of the front from D to X, X is half way to. D to F, the skirt shall 
also match to the straight line which is made from the front from D to l-l. when 
having the front and skirt patterns connected as explained, begin the cutaway 
part as shown, C is the beginning of the curving, the curve from C to G is a 
straight cutaway, from C to H is half cutaway and from C to I is a full cutaway, 
when the curve is finished at the front they shall be lost to the button line as 
shown. At the back of this skirt from J to K and L to 11 is an inch for a half 
side pleat to be connected to tlie back of this garment. 

This completes the cutaway front for the riding coat. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



84 




Lesson 37 



85 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



DOUBLE BREASTED RIDlfa COAT. 

L E S S ON 3 8. 

I'his garment is cut tlie same way as the single breasted riding coat. Tliis 
garment is cut with a double breasted front, the 1 inch button stand is not allowed 
on tJiis front, when the draft is complete until the bust at Y and seams allowed 
at 33, now we draw a line from 33 to 19, 21 and 22 as always, now dxaw a straight 
line from 22 up to 37 where the revere for the double breasted front begins, now 
curve the bottom of front from 28, 35 to 55, now measure from 35 to 55 2 1/2 
iches, at the breast line from 38 to 39 3 1/2 inches, now cross a line from 55 to 
39 up to 56. 'Now mark the place for the buttons, for the first button divide 55 to 
39 makes 41, now draw a line from 41 to 42, 42 is 1 inch from 0. now cross a 
parallel line from 44 to 37, now cross a parallel line from 44 to 37. 
now raise a line up from 37 to 40 as shown on diagram, this space 
from 37 to 40 shall measure about 3 incl es, this can be changed for 

more or less, now connect from 40 to 41 with a curved line as shoT\Ti on 

diagram, this completes the front. ^jpjg sivij^ part is increased from 35 to 55, 
now allow this amoimt which is 2 1/2 inches from 57 to 58 and on the bottom 
from 16 to 17. 

The flap on the skirt is 2 inches lower from the wai^^t line, from 45 to 46 

is 2 inches, the size of this flap is 1/4 of the size or 9 inche-, from 46 to 47 is 

4 j4 inchee, also from 46 to 48 is 4 - 1/2 inches, from 47 to 49 is 3 inclies and 

from 48 to 50 is also 3 inches, by all means this garment is finished the same as 

the single breasted riding coat. 

This completes the double breasted riding coat. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



86 




Lesson 38 



87 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



HOW TO CUT A CLOSE BACK. 

LESSON 3 9. 

Tlie clo?e bark in center can be ebanged by eumpleting first the outlines of 
tliis back for tbe seam, when no seam of this back is wanted takeoff from B 
a seam as shown on diagram and take the proper line down from B against the 
hip line at C down to the bottom which gives D, now measure over the original 
back at the waist lines from F to E. and measure the same amount from the side 
line across the waist from G to II. now take the seam off from I to J on the hip 
line and connect a line from H to J down to K which is the bottom of this back, 
this completes the seamlesis back in the center. 

HOW TO MAKE A FKOXT WITHOVT SEAM IN FRONT. 

Mark out first the original seam front, when having the front all marked 
out as shown on diagram from 0, X, A, J, B, F, G, M, N", K, to 0. Now take 
same off from A to C in front, the same from B to D os tlie waist line and cross aj 
straight line down from C, I), E, wlien this straight line k complete sec the bust 
effect from I to J take off from the front, increase the same from K to Iv, now 
see the amount taken off from F to E and transfer the same amount from G to H, 
now curve for the changes made at the side of this front, now curve from to Ij 
to N, from N down to H, this completes the seamless front. All seams are 

allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




F E OB 



Lesson 39 



89 THE PRACTICAL DE SIGNER 

VEST SINGLE BREASTED WIITHOUT COLLAR. 

LE S S N 4tO . 

This garment is drafted of the same measurements as the other.<, as 
follows :- . . , 

size, 36 inches, 

Bust, 39 inches, 

Waist, 25 inches, 

Depth, 7 inches, 

Waist length, 15 1/3 inches, 

Opening, 15 inches, 

Full length in front 2(5 inches, 

Begin drafting, the same way as usual, from A to B is 7 inches depth, A to C 

is natural waist length from C to D is 3 inches hip space. Noav draw lines as 

usual, from B to G and C to E ite 2/3rds of size or 12 inches, now take tiio width 

back as usual, and make the back shoulder as usual to M, now divide from 1 to G 

makes 7, dj-aw a line down to 13, take both sides of 7. 3/4 of an inch at 9 and 

10 on the waist line, both sides of 8, take out 1 1/2 inches at 11 and 12, now make 

the front, from G to F is !/« of size or 3 inchelf, draw alinefroniFtc^QtoTis 1/Gth 

or 3 inches, from P to is also 1/6 or 3 inches, now draw a stright line up from 

P to E, fnmi in 1! is 1/6 or 3 inches, now cross a line from the 

front shouhlei' from to T, make the front shoulder as usual, now 

measure the l)ust from T to U, from U to V is 3 inches for seams, 

no\\- cross a line down from "V to 3, X is the waist line from' X to Y is 3/4 of an 

inch, now draw a line from V to Y, Z, in order to measure tlie opening and full 

length, measure from A to L and place the samie to R and 0, d.owu to V, from E 

to V is 15 inches opening and from B to 2 is the full length in front 20 inches 

and 1 more inch is 27 inches, now cross a line' from 2 to 1-4, 14 ife 1 inch from 13, 

the same as 15 from 13, now take the dartas usual, divide the chest and draw a line 

from 3 to 25, from 4 to 5 is 1 inch, from 4 to 6 is 2 inches^ now curve the dart from 

19 1 inch up down to 5 and 20 and 19 to 6 and 21, cross a parallel line from 20 to 

21 now shape 21 to 14, now shape the shoixlder am' arm-holes as shown, tlie 

shoulders shall le 1/2 inch less in width, now shape the side and the back as shown 

on the diagram, mark the space between E and 16, 1-1/4 inches on the waist line. 

This completes the \est wothout a collar. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



90 




Lesson 40 



91 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



DOUBLE Bl^EASTED ^'EST WITH A COLLAR. 
LESSON il . 
This front is also drafted the same way as the first vest draft, only this 
front has a special allowance for the double breasted front. To begin this double 
breasted front, we first complete the single breasted front and after we increase for 
the double breasted, on the waist line, from Y to B is 3 inches, on thg bottom from Z 
to A 1 1/2 inclius, now cross a line from A to B up tQ C, this is the out side of the 
front, now measure the opening as usual from to V, now cross a line from 
to V down to C to reach the front and curve from as shown on the diagram, 
now mark the 'style of the lajjel on the pattern as wanted, take special notice to me- 
asure the opening for a double breasted the .■^ame way as for a single breasted. 




Lesson 4 1 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 92 



now TO |)i;ai-t all kinds of sizes. 

L E ,s' ,s' ON 4 2. 

To draft all kind of size?, we only need to look over tlie table of proportion* 
in order to uot the nieasurenienls for tlic depth and natural waist length for the isize 
wanted, aftur liaving the depth and waist length we begin the draft as usual. Now 
suppose we want to draft a sizeiOtightfittingjacket, wefirstlookontheiproportional 
table for the size number 40, bust 43, waii«t 27, hip 45, depth T. 1/4 inches, natural 
waist length 15 3/4 inches, inside sleeve length 19 inches. In drafting 
we first use the depth and natural waist length and after we use 
the size number as usual, for this size we use 40. To begin draw lines as shown on 
the diagram, from A to B is 7 1/4 inchcis depth, from A to C is 15 3/4 natural waist 
length and fi'om C to D is (i inches hip space always. Now cross all lines as usual, 
from B til (v'aud from D to E is 2/3rds of size or 13 3/8 inches, now take half of 
B to G makes K, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, now cross a line up from I to J, from A 
to K is 1/6 of size or 3 3/8 inches for this size, from K to L is always 1 inch, now 
draw a line for shoulder, from L to .1 M and square down a line to ],'from D to 
S is always 1-1/2 inches, from C to Q is 2 inches, this partof garment isnot change- 
able for woniens garmenlt;, from S to Z is 1/G of size'or 3-3/8 inches, from Q to E 
is 1 inch less than from S to Zjsff 2-3/8 inches, now cross lints fromZtoRand from 
R to H, now divide from I to J makes N, cross a line from N to'O, now curve the 
Ijody, from Z to Y is 3/4 of an inch, from El to 4 ite 1 inch. Now cross lines froniY 
to 4, from 4 to H and sliajic from to TI and 4, from to P is a 1/2 inch up and 
3/8 of an incli allowed I'm- a seam. Now allow from G to 1 and E to 2, 3/4 of an 
inch and draw a line fnim 1 In 2, 3 is on the waist line, now take half of 3 and 4 



93 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



"makes 5, also half of H to I makes 6, now cross a line from 6 to 5 down to 27, from 
C to 7 is 1 inch. Both sides of 5, take out 3/4 of an inchat 35 and 2 6, both sides of 27, 
allow ;i/t: or an inch on the hip line, now cross lines from, 6' to 25 and 86 to the 
waist line also from 35 to 29 and from 26 to 28 down to the hip line. Now begin 
the front the same as usual, from G to F is 3 inches for all sizes larger than 36, for 
smaller sizes this space shall be 1/6 of the size, otherwise this draft is allowed as 
nsual. Now draw a line from, ¥ up ten '30, from 30 to 31 is 1/6 of thelsize whatever 
the size is, large or small, the same is used from 31 to 3'2 and from- 31 to 33, now 
cross the front shoulder line from 33 to T, now measure the front shoulder, before 
measuring the front shoulder, measure the back shoulder from L tos M and place the 
same amount for the front shoulder from 33 to 34, from F to 37 is 1 1/2 inches, 
now cross a line from 34 to 37 for the front armhole, now measure the bust from 
T to 8 is half of 43 bust is 21 1/2 inches, from' 8 to 9 is 3 inches for seams. Now 
cross the line d,o\ra from 9 to 38, from 10 to 11 is 2-1/4 inches for all sizes, now 
measure from 1 to 36 1/4 of an inch and from 3 to 24, 1 inch on the hip line from 
E to, 35 is 1 inch also, from 2 to 34 is 1 inch, now cross lines from 34 to 3, from 35 
to 24 and from 34 to 36, now cross a line for the long waist line in front, from 24 
to 11 also the line in front, from 9 to 14. 

Now mark the dart in front as usual, divide' aeeross the chest, from F to 9 
makes 15, measure the space from 9 to 15 and place the same from 12 to 39 on the 
straight waist line. Now cross a line from 15 down to 17 and 21, divide from 15 to 

17 makes 16, 16 is the begining of the dart, now make the dart, from 17 to 18 is 
1 inch, from 21 to 23 is 1 1/4 inch, from 17 to 19 is 3 inches, now cross lines from 

IG to 18 also 19 and 30, now from 18 to 22. now spuare a line out from 18 to 30, 
and draw a straight line down to 23, from 20 to 23 shall measure the same as from 

18 to 23, make from 40 to 14, 6 inches also from 24 to 35 and cross a line from 35 
to 14 and connect 23 to 41. Now curve the arm-hole as usual, this draft is showing 
bow to work thq different sizes. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



94 




Lesson 42 



95 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

THE STUDY UF THE STOUT FOKM. 

In measuring the stout form we will find a great change in formality. The 
changes are slio'ira. in many respects as there are regular stout, short stout, and 
extra stout. The regailar stoiit form is Iniilt in regular depth and natiiral waist 
length. The width of hack is proportional for its size. The bust measurement is 
increased for its proportional use. The waist is increased or overbuilt for the size 
of chest and bust mesurements as a rule for the stout forms. 

Tlio sliort stout i'linu is clinnged by all means. 'I'ho depth is always by tho 
size of the garment. The natural waist length is short arrording to the regidar 
length. The sleeves are also very' short. The bust as a rule shows full on short 
builds but it is not overbuilt. 

The waist is the only overbuilt part. The increase is about 3 or 3 inches. 
Like the regular stout form. 

The side body is a great deal shorter than it is for regular builds as the 
depth is regular in length and the waist length is very short. The neck for this form 
is also very short. 

The extra stout form is changed in measurements regarding the height. 
The dejitli and waist length is very long. Tlie neck is a very high one for this 
form. The skeve lengths for this form are according to tlie height of formls. The 
regular length for sleeve is 18 inches, the short sleeve length is 16 to 17 inches. 
The extra stout sleeve length is 19 to 20 inches. 

The neck for stout forms is short and large in size. 

The chest for stout forms is very flat. 

The bust for stout forms is medium. 

The waist for stout forms is unlimitcdly largo. 

The hip for stout forms is long effected and flat. 

Skirts for stout forms shall be cut very low raise in back, and raised up 
in front of the same. 

The hips for stout forms are small, therefore, the bottom of the skirt 
might be too narrow, hi cace of having a narrow bottom for skirts it should be 
increased to the regidar width which is 3 yards. This increase should be done at 
the hip or side seam, equally di\id,cd for both. 

Should this skirt be cut in more than 2 gores the overbuilt fullness shall be 
equally divided to all gores or to all seams. 

Regarding measurements for stouts see the table of stout proportions. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 96 



HOW TO oi;ai-|- a i;o.\ coa'I' foi; a s'I'ot'I' foum. 

L I'J S S X -i 3 . 

Tlie stout coat is coninioiiecd the same as the others, except tlie cliange of the 
stoutness, the measurements for tliis garment are taken as usually, 

>^iw, At) inches, 

Bust, 43 inches, 

Waist, 30 inches, 

Hip, 45 inches. 

Depth, 7 1/4 inches. 

Waist lcn,iitli, 1.-) 3/1 inches, 

Full length, Mil inches, 

Sleeve length, is inches, 

Begin to draft as usualy, from A to B is 7 1/4 inches, d.epth, from A to 
C ia 15 3/4 inclies waist length, from (' ti) I) is 6 inches hip space, from A to E 
is 30 inches full length of coat, now cross all lines as usual, now measure from B 
to G and from D to H 2/3rds. of size as always, cross a line from H to G up, now 
<iivide from B to G makes J, from J to I is 1/4 inches, draw a line uj) from 1 
to 1\, from A to L is l,'(i of size, from Ij to M is 1 inch, now draw a line from 
M to K and, X and square a line down tn 1, from (J to 12 is 2 inches, cross a line from 
12 lo A, now hegin tl;c fmnt. from to is 3 inches.now raise a line up from 
to P, from P to Q is 1/G of size, also from Q to K and to F, now eros a line 
for the front shoulder from R to T, now measure the hack shoulder from M to N 
and place the same amount to the front from R to 9, now cross a line from 9 to 



97 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



for tlic front arm-hole, now measure the bust from T to S, from S to 8 is 3 inches 
for seams. Xow cross a line from 8 down to Z. now begin to work the stoutness, 
look nvcr viiur waist nica-iivcnient for this stout size, also look for the wai-t meas- 
ure on the regular size and see the difference between the two measurements, the 
rgular waist measure for a 40 size is 27 inches, and for this stout, the waist meas- 
ure is 30 inches, the'differenee of these 2 measurements Ils 3 inches, now take half 
of this 3 inches, 1 1/2 inch and allow from Y to W, now cross a line from 8 to W 
and down to Y, now separate the front and back, take half of I to G makes 2, from 
2 to -i is 1 1/2 inches, now cross a line from 2 to H down to 15. 16 is 1 inch up 
from 15, now curve from Ki to E. now measure the front hip, from 1 to X is -15 
hip measure on 2/3rds, from X to 3 is 2 inches, for fulness, from U to Z is 3 
inches, now complete the side measure from 2 to l(i and take the same with a. 1/4 
of an inch longer from 4 to 7 and make a curved line from 7 to Z and Y this com- 
pletes the bottom on the front, now comtjilete the stoutness in front, cross a line 
down from to 10 for the pocket iihue, from l<i to 5 and 6 is 3 inches both sides 
or in full G inches for the pocket. Now cross a line from 5 to W on both sides of 
W at 13 and 14, take out 3/8 of an inch or half from V to ^V and cross lines lost 
to 5, this amount shall be pleated up as shown on tlie diagram, now split on the 
side, from G to 1 is I inch also from G to 11 is 2 inches, now split from 1 
to 11 before pleating up the front. The separation is shown on the next page. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



98 




Lesson 43. 



99 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




L E IS SUA' i i . 
HOW TO CUT THE PATTEEN FKOM A STOUT DRAFT 
When the draft for the stout jacket is all completed, begin to cut the front 
from 1! to 9, 1"2, G, 4, 7, Z to Y, the front shall not be cut imlesc- everything 
is (-(unplete. Now cut in the front, from 13 to 13 which is the side part under the 
arm also cut in at the pocket from 13 to 5, when this is cut in pleat up as shown 
on, tile original draft both sides or W. \-] and U lost to 5. and after when the fold 
is r.iiiile, istraighten out the front a> shown on diagram. Xnw sc*e to it that when 
the fold in front is made, the pocket space shall be opened from 1-1 to 13, also the 
under arm seam from 12 to 15 as shown on the diagi-am. Now allow the button 
stand, the button stand can be allowed also before the fold is made for the stout- 
ness, and straighten out as usual. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



100 



^" 





fSp* 


' '^ 




A 


) 


J ^,- 






1 






^— 


— k- 






1 


) 



Lesson 45 



101 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

THE HOOD. 

L E .S 6' U A' 4 5 . 

To begiu the liood we make use of tlie front and back upper parts from a 
box eoal. 'l"o bei;iii we mark out the haek I'riim A, B, C, D. Now couneci 
the front shoulder seam at E, F, and mark out the neck from E to K for the front 
pni'l. 'riiis is shown on number 1. Now see Xo. •,'. Now divide the front neek 
IVoui K to E makp?l, from I to J is 1 inch. Now curve from J to the width of 
shoulder at F and D. 

Now before making a further curve we make the length of this hood from A to B 
is Ji inelus the same is fi-oni 1! to (i. now u^ake a square ijne ^ip from G to H. now 
spuare out the shoulder line I'roni H. ('. F and D, out to 11. now finish the 
curve from J, F and 1) down to G, from G to L is 1/3 of G to B. Now make the 
round curve from L to H, this part appears at the neck part when the collars is all 
complete. After completing this collar see No. 2. Wlien the collar is all cut out 
it is followed up as shown on the diagram, from A to B is the length in bnek, or fi-oni 
the neck dow-n on the back which makes a point at B, fold from L by B and H as 
sliown on the fold L to L, the connection of the neck part is from A, I, J, the 
curved line from J to H lays over the shoulder when 1 to A is buttoned to the neck 
]iari (if this IkkiiI wIumi eulting tliis hood iihiee lo a loubl the bottom part of this 
liodd from 1! to h in order to h;ne it -eandess when folded from B to L, 
the seillUs cannot be seen. This eoni]i|etes the hocid. 



THESAIiJti; COLL.VK' 
LE SS .\ 4 (i . 

To begin the sailor collar mark out the frc)ut and back jiart of shirtwaist, we 
first mark out the back part wdiich is shown on the diagram, from A to B, C, D and 
K, frouii A to B will be the lengUi of the sailor collar in the back, this space is the 
length of the depth measure, this shall be the proper lengtli for the sailor collar, 
this length can also be changed in case of style wanted. Now connect the front part 
at lite shoulder aiul the back, th^ should', r at (! lo D antl F to E by placing these to 
each other lap over 3/8 of an inch one to another in order to have the right si'?e for 
neck. Before placing the front to this shoulder connection, mark the opening of 
the sailor collar from H to J, now cross a line from G to J for the sailor collar and 
allow from .1 to 1 1 inch to imike the collar 1 inch longer so as to ^dbuv all-seams ne- 
cessary, from 1 to M is ahvpys 1 inch, this is also for seams allowance to be used 
for seams on both sides of this collar, now cross a line from M to the width of 
shoulder at E and F. now curve the line down from J^ aiul V to cross line at the 
back from B to V to meet .\ whieh makes the width of the collar at the back, now 
curve as .shown on the diagram for the regular shape of the sailor collar from .\, B, 
X, E, F, M. 1. .'. up to G, D and A, this completes tlie Sailor Collar. 

Should we want a round effect sailor collar at the back part, curve as shown 
from F, E to B this is shown on the diagram with a traced line. This completes 
the sailor collar. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



102 




(^' ^ 



Lesson 46 



103 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE SHIELD F()K 'I'liE SAIl.oi; COLLAR 

L E S S X 4 T . 

To begin the shield we mark out tlie lu-ek part ti> front, the front part which 
is shown on the lines for the sailor collar from G, H to J and place it on another 
sheet of paper, mark all around from G, H. f to J, from I to J is always 1 inch, 
from J to X is also 1 inch, now increase from G to A, the width of the liaek part 
in order to get the right meastircmcnts we conned the back part of this u'l-uient 
and lap over for a full seams which is 3/-1: of an inch at G where the slioulder seam 
connects. Xow we use from A to X 3 inches and lost to F witli a straight line 
down to X as shown on diagram. This part as a rule is cut open which is showing 
on diagram Xo. ■^' on this page. 

DIAGRAM Xo. II. 

Diagram Xo. 2 iis most of tlie^time cut from draft without the back part con- 
nection. When diagram X^o. 3 is wanted simply draw the front part as shown 
before on the diagram Xo. 2, from G to F is 3 inches the same 
from D to E lost for the same width as diagram Xo. 1 at J, 1 and M, from H to I 
shall be 1 inch longer than tbc ojicning for the sailor collar. All these parts have 
seams allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



104 



Diagram 11. 



Diagram 1. 




Lesson 47—48 



HALF FITTING GARMENT 




THE STANDING COLLAR. 
L E ,s' S y 4 8. 

To begin to draft, measure first the neck of the pattern, which is abotit 
]4 inches, in full. Allow 1 inch for seams, making 1.5 inches. Now draw 
lines from A to B and A to C : from A to P. is 3 inches, the widthof the collar, 
and from A to C is 1.5 inches, the size of the collar; from C to D is also the 
\\idth, .'5 inches. Draw a line from D to B ; take half of A and C, making F; 
friim I' draw a line to E; from E to G is .S/4 inch. From B to H and D to I 
is alsci :!/! inch; from A to K and C to J is 1/2 inch. Now make all curves 
as shown on the diagram. 



THE LAP OVER COLLAR. 



/. E .S' ,S A 4 9. 



This collar is out in 1/3 seizes only, when measuring the neck wanted use 1/2 
of measurement, now we increase to draft, now draw a line from A, B to C, from 
A to B is 1 inch, from B to D and E is also 1 inch, this means the space in back, 
now measure from E, F 1/2 of the size of the neck, divide this space which makes 
I, now make a curved line with a round stick from D toi F, from F to G is 1/2 of an 
inch, now curve the line from (i to p], tliis oouiplrtes the stand for this collar from 
from F to K is the same amoimt as the width of collar, now cross a line from K 
to J and divide which makes X, cross a line from F : up to L, now measure 

Now measure from B to C :5 iiirlu'- width of (nll,-ir, tlir same from I to H and'F to 
E to ]) which is tlie l)aek jiart and from F t" .1 wliii-h is tlie fornflJart of this collar. 
tin- widtli of cdlhir frnm F to L. now iiiakr itc curves as sIkwh at E at the back part 
of neck and shape up to C, curve from tlio imint from J to Ij to F as shown on the 
diagram, this collar has all seams allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



106 



Lesson 49 




Lesson 50 
THE STORM CULLAi;. 



L E ^' <i' .V 5 . 
'J'lii> ti)II;ir i.< ini/reased the same way a- tlir laji over collar, this collar cliaiiir- 
es on the oxer liuilt width, when making line on the liottom which is from D to ,N 
we first make frcjni R to C the regular width of collar which is 3 inches and draw a 
line from D against C to make N in order to have the right over built or big spring 
which is needed in order to fit this collar perfectly. Xow cross the width fi-om I 
to H and from F to J and F to L, the width of this collar shall be about "i inches, 
from F to 1\ i~ always the uame as the width of collar as to connect a line to I in 
order to meet L as usual, when all these outlines are complete as usual, stand 
from D, E and F to (i shall be over built with a 1/2 inch height. Tlii- collar 
shall be cut in -t gores, to be made at H and Q. H is the top part of the 
collar from H to O and from H to F we allow 3/1 cd" an inch on both sides on 
the bottom at Q on both j-ides of S and K, we allow 1/4 of an inch, now draw lines 
from P, to I, R, from to X to S, now cur\e as shown on diagram, P, I. 
P. 0, X, S, the back part from E, D. C to X, the front from J, L. F to 
G, when cutting out this collar trace the back part from N. M, M, O. X, S, 
E, D, C to X, this is the back part of the front from P, I. R, V. L. J to 
P. when this collar is complete, allow peamn at I', 1 In \\. 0, X to S, 



107 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 5 I 




Lesson 52 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER |08 



THK AIT()M()1',I1J-: COLl.Ai; 



LEt<S().\ .")1. 



To lieyin this collar we first measure the neck of the collar wanted, 
after having the measurement, which is about 14 inches for a 36 size neck, 
we draw a line from A to II which is about 15 inches; now draw a line from 
A to B, divide between A and li, making C; cross lines from A, G and K, C, 
N and O, B, J to F; from C to I) and E is 3/4 inch space; make curves from 
A and D to B and from A and E to B : make the under collar width from A 
to G 2 inches, from D to O 2 inches, and B to F also 2 inches; from A to K 
is the to]) collar. 3 inches, E to N is also 3 inches, from B to J again 3 inches. 
Extend for the front on top collar, from J to M ; from K to L is 1 inch. Ex- 
tend a lap over on the under collar part, which is increased from G to H 1/2 
inch and from F to I also 1/2 inch ; now increase the lap over from B, P and I 
to Q, which is 2 inches, where the Initton hole should be placed. At the 
other end of the collar we place the liutton. Cur\-e all outlines carefully, as 
shown on the diagram. 



FLAT OR DUTCH COLLAE. 
LESSON 52. 

To begm a collar which has no stand we need front and back of a blouse or a 
waist gannent in order to make use of the neck part. 

Just mark out tlie back parts from A, B. C and D. Kow attach the 
front neck and lap over witli a seam which sliall amount to 3/8 inch at the 
shouldeiS from C to F and from D to E and mark around G and H. Now 
curve the neck as shown on the diagram from A to G and mark around the out- 
side from G, H, D, F to B. Seams are allowed. The seam shall be taken off 
on the back parts of all collars at A and B where no seam ib wanted. 



1 09 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



•'■- A sr.EliVE WITHOFT FULLNESS. 

Whe beginning to cut the sleeve keep in mind the size of the sleeve wanted, 
now suppose you wanted a 3ti size sleeve, draw a line from A to D and from A 
to F, from A to B is 1/3^^^. or 6 inches, now take 1/2 of A and B 
makes C, now measure from B to D, 18 inches for inside sleeve length. Xow 
divide from B to U makes E for elbow line, now cross all lines, from A to F 
on halves or 9 inches, iiow cross all lines and measure on tlie bottom line from I to 
F, now measure fromi G to V l/12th. of size or 1 1/2 inches for this size, now 
cross a line from C to V and divide the space which makes T. Now square a 
line down from T to U which makes the star. Xow make from H to X 1 inch, 
this is the inside elbow now divide the bottom line from I to D makes J, from .1 
to K is 2 inches, now emss a line from K against L from I to is 1 
and from to P is also 1 inch, this is the bottom of the top sleeve. From G 
to S is 1/2 of an inch, now cross a line from G to X also from S to X from 
to N and P to N, now cross a line from T\ to e thili is the outside el- 
bow, now make from K to L 1 1/2 inches and from E to M 2 1/2 inches, 
from T to W is 1 inch, now cross lines from W to M down to R, from L 
to K is a 1/2 inch also from to Q, now curve the top sleeve by the star, from V 
to S to finilsh the front curve of the top sleeve, now cross the inside and out- 
side front sleeve as shown on the diagram in order to make this sleeve straight iu 
front, connect the line for tnp >lecve from ."i to H and P, not S to iX and P. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



— «A 




Lesson 54 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE SI>EK\K WITH SOME FCEIvXESS. 

LESSON 55 

This sleeve begins the same wny at- the first sleeve, to begin measure from A 
to J3 1/3 of size or G int-lies lor a 36 size, from B to D is 18 inches 

for inside sleeve length, erosB all lines from A to F, from B to S, from E 
to H, from D to Q, now measure from A to F 2/3 ; of the size or 13 

inches for a 3G size, the same amount place irom I) to <.,), now draw a line from 
F to Q, from 'G to V is 1 1/2 inches, C i~ half of A and B, now cross 
a line from C Y, take half of C and V makes T. now square a line down from 
T to make U, half of T and U ife the star (*) from G tn S and to Wis 
a 1/2 inch both sides, from 11 to X is 1 inch tn'r the iii-idc elbow cui-ve . now 
divide the bottom divide the bottom line from D to 1 makes J, draw a line 
down to K, from J to K is 2 inches, now cross a line from K against I out to 
P. From I to is 1 inch, from U to P is alto 1 inch, this is the bottom of 
the top sleeve, from E to X is 3 1/2 inches, from X to ^l is 3 inches this is the 
outside elbow, from K to L is 3 inchw-, now cross line- from 1\ to X and 
up to C, this is the outside of the to]) sleeve, now cross linc< from L to ^1 u[) to 
T, this is the outisjde of the inside sieve. Xow allow from I^ to K a 1/3 inch 
also from to Q a 1/3 inch, and cross a line from 1\ to (), now cross lines for 
the inside elbow from Q to N and P to X, also from W to X and S to X, now curve 
the top sleeve by the 'star (*) from V to C, now shape from V to S d.own to 
the inside elbow X', also curve the under sleeve at the arm-hole from T to W as 
shown in the diagram. To cut out this sleeve place another sheet of paper under- 
neat the draft and cut all around tlie top sleeve, take for the bottom jiart of tlie un- 
sleeve at U and (,), aftei- ba\ iiig cnt out the top sleeve, u.se the linttum |)allern as 
the to]) sleeve, and cut dut from llic original draft the under sleeve. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



112 




LESSON 55 



113 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




LESSON 56. 

A SLEEVE WITH ALL SIZES OF FULLNESS. 

For this sleeve we shall use the sleeve No. 2. This is a sleeve with 
some fullness. To begin this, cut out the top sleeve only, and mark out on 
another sheet of paper as shown from A, E, C, F, D, to B. Now draw all 
lines out from C These spaces are 1 inch from each other, H, I, J, 

E, G. Make top curves from the front part of sleeve, beginning at F, to 
meet all spaces from E, G, H, I, J. These curves are connected to the lines 
of every size of fullness wanted. Now any size of fullness can be taken oflf 
of this diagram. Suppose we want a sleeve with the fullness to H. trace all 
around from A, E H down to C B and up to A. This is the outline of 
tracing of either sizes of sleeve wanted. The fullness of the sleeve shall only 
be increased on a top sleeve ; the under sleeve remains as usual. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



114 




Lesson 57 
OXE T'lECK SLEEVE WITH FLTjLXESS OX THE IJOTTo.M 

LESSoy 5: 

To begin this sleeve use a cut-out initteiu '>f ilic lirst sleeve, mark out first 
the top sieve from A to J, C, X, D, B to A. Now connect the under sleeve 
at C, from (* to E and from X to F widili ;! I cH" an inch, N' and P is 
the elbow. Now mark out the under sleeve all around, as shown on the diagram, 
from E to F. I. H, G, L and E. Xow curve the bottom of the sleeve from 
B to D, I and H, the bottom of this sleeve gives a blouse effect cuff, now curve 
the top of the sleeve, from A to K. ^I to U, from J to K is 1 inch de- 
creased from the top sleeve, and from L to !\1 i* 1 inch increased for the Tinder 
sleeve. This makes the one piece sleeve width fullness on the liottiiiii or the blouse 
sleeve. 



115 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 58 

ONE PIECE sjj':i':vii wnii i-tllness ox tiik toi' 



LESSON 58 

To begin tliis sleeve make the lirsl slee\e and mark out the top sleeve first 
from A to B, D, C, i, J. to A, now ((iimect the under sleeve at the bottom 
F to D and ill as sIkiwji on the diagram, now mark all aroimd the under sleeve 
to G and H down to F. Wlicii the Iroth sleeves are marked out, begin to make 
the top curve, from A in T\. 1, Tj t(i (j. from J to K is 1 inch and from H 
to L is also 1 inch, from J lo Iv decrease the fullness of the top sleeve and from H 
to L increase the fullness of the under sleeve, to cut begin from A to K. I, L, G, E, 
F, D, B and A, this completes the one piece slee\-e with fullness on top. 

ONE PIEOH r)l!ESS SLEEVE. 



LESSON 59. 



To liegin this sleevi 
out the to]-> sleeve on a shoe 
B. S to A, Now connect the mule 



first i-ul ihc ()i'iL:inal tight-fitting sleeve, and mark 
paper as -;ho\\ 11 nil th<> diagi'am, from A, V, W, L), 

„, ,_, ,„ .., _,,„,, , ..ic under sleeve tn tlie toji sleeve on the top part at C 

and E, from C to E and from W to E is :i/ luf an inch ispaee lape over, when 
the muler sleeve is connected mark all around from E, C, G, H, L E to E. 
Now mark the connection. Curve on the top from A, 1\, M, to G, ^lien curv- 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



116 




Lesson 59 



ing make cliang-es as follows, ivmn .^ to K is 1 inch decTfasod I'ur fuliu-^s ul the 
top sleeve, and from L to Isl is 1 inch encrcased for the under sleeve, this com- 
pletes the curve for the sleeve on top, now look over carefully the sleeves after the 
top and under sleeves are connected as tlie sleeve is now marked out, it is useful 
witii a dai't on the outside elbow as shown from I) to X and from I to X. 

For a tight fitting one piece sleeve, cross a line from the bottom of the inside 
sleeve lengths from B to H, now cross a line from E to F down to N and 
measure the size of cuff both sides of F, the cuff shall measure 1/4 of the size or 9 
inches for a 3<! size, allow 1" more inch to the width of cuff for seams makes 10 
inches for this cuff, jion- make from N to 5 inches, also from X to P. this 
makes a straight cuff from () to P when a lap - over is wanted on the top sleeve. 
Divide X and makes Q, from Q to U is 2 inches. Xow curve to E, 
from R to P, shape both sides the inside length of the sleeve, from T to U is ^/•^ 
of an inch, and from S to V is also 1/2 of an inch, curve as shown on the diagram, 
from A, V, to and from G, U, to P, this completess llie two kind,s of 
sleeves useful for all kinds of garments. 'J'o cut out the dart sleeve follow A S 
B, D, X, I. II, T. G, M, K to A. 

To cut out the tight fittiim- sleeve follow, A, A'. 0. E P U G il 
Kto A. ' ,,,,,., 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 60 

Till'; DAlv'l' S1>KK\-K. 

Thi.- sleeve shall l)e earned out IVnm, a verv I'lill top sleeve, to begin tliif 
sleeve we first prepare a very large top sleeve as shown on diagram. How to cnt 
a slee\e with all sizes of fullness. For this sleeve take the largest sleeve from 
diagram mentioned, tliis top sleeve shall be curved at the outside from C to D as 
shown on the diagram, now mark the spaces on top of the top sleeve where small 
darts shall take place as shown on diagram, from A, F, G, H, I, J. & E, 
The deepness nr thci.se darts shall be 3 inches only amount taken out for these 
darts shall be considered as to the size of the arm - hole wanted. 

I'le very careful to raise up the small amount on bothe sides of the dart as 
shown on the diagram. This; completes the sleeve witli the darts on to]!. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 62 



Lesson 61 



119 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE EAGLAX SLEEVE. 

LESSON 61. 

To begin the ragian sleeve we first complete the sleeve number 1. Xow 
measure the space from A to B, take half of this makes W, now draw a Hue up 
fromW to D and E, f rom W to D place the width of the shoulder of the jacket 
for this sizes, from D to E is 3/4 of an inch, from E to F is also 3/4: of an 
inch. Now connect lines from E to C and from F to V and curve the top sleeve 
. as shown on the diagram. 

A EAGLAN SLEEVE WITH A DAET IN SHOULDEES. 

LESSON G2. 

The beginning of this sleeve is the same as the first raglan sleeve witli the ex- 
ception that this has dart placed at the center line which is ivom W to D. In 
order to begin make from D to F and from D to E 3/4 ths of an inch and curve 
lines lost to W. Now allow from E to li and from F to G 3/4tlis of an inch 
and draw line from G to V and from H to C, curve as shown on the diagram. 

This completes the Eegular sleeve with a dart in the shoulders, otherwise, we 
ha\e all seams allowed to these sleeves. 

For a seam over the top sleeve, split Lesson 62 from D, W down to 
the bottom of the top sleeve half width of the cuff and allow for this seam. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 120 



SKIRTS 



121 THE P 1! A C T i (J A L D E tj 1 U N E R 



LE>'<SUX G3. 

The sldrts are ili-afted aecuriliiig to waist aud hip iiieasurwufiits, lon.utli Tor 
skirts can be ehaiigeii at aiiv tiiiii'. Bt'loi-o comnieufing to draft the skirt outline 
we have to decide tii'st about how inaiiv gores (liis sldrt shouhl be divided and also 
what the width for I be Iroui shall he fo>-e\ri-y gored skirts. Now tin- width for 
the front gores shall be eandully deeideil bdore commencing to draft the outlines 
for skirts as. the from gore for all skirts shall be 1/2 of the width of either gore^ 
the width for the front gores are a< follow^ :- 

five gore skirts .-hall be. frmu '.'-t/'i iuehes, 
Se\en gore skirt shall be, froui ■.;-l 4 iiuhess- 
Eiiie gore skirt, shall be. front •.' iiKties, 
Eleven gore skirt, shall be, frinii. I -f/a inches, 
TJiirtecn gore skirt, shall be, front, 1-3/8 inches, 
Fifteen gore skirt, shall be, front, 1-1/4 inches, 
Seventeen gore skii-t, shall be, front, 1-1/8 inches, 
Nineteen gore skirt, shall Ih'. front. 1 inch. 

The 19 gore skin -hall be the very last and most to be cut in gores, for any- 
more gores tlian i;i tb.' pleating niu.-t lie made. Now we commence to draft, the 
measurements for this sicirt are as follows :- 

Waist ■!:> inehe-. Hi], 43 inches. Front length 41 inches, 

Siile length 13 inches. Back length 45 inches. 

'I'o bruin to draft draw a lino from A to B and A to D, fi-nm A to C 
is ■ ;j id' :>.o iiu he> for waist measurement, from C to D is 3 iiiebes tor the hip 
increase, now ,(|uare a line up from I) to E. from!) to E is ii iiirbc-. now cross 
aline fniniE to.\, now take 1 /•.' of A to E makes J I, from 11 tod is 1 inch, 

now ero-s fr .V J to E. this curve is the natural line for the waist, now 

mea-^ure from A to (4 and from E to F (i inches and cross a line from Ci to F, 
now mea-uic 1/5 of the hip from G to F which is 43 inche-s hip measurement or 
t ■? or this •.'l-l/'3 inches, now" cross a line from E against F down to Ta now 
measiwe the length in front, from A to F> is H inches, and fi'oni V. to I. is the 
back Icni^tb ITi incbi's. For futher insli'nclions ■:ee the ne\t li'sscn. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



122 




-®B 



LESSON 63. 



123 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 64. 

FIVE-GORE SKIRT. 

To begin lesson No. "2 we shall decide on how many gores this skirt shall be 
cut. Xow suppose yon want a 5-gore skirt. Make the front suitable for a .3-gore 
skirt, which is 2 1/2 inches on the top waist line from A to I ; on the bottom line 
fr( in B to K is the double amount of A to I. This shall always be kept in mind — 
that the bottom of the front should measure twice as much as the top of the front. 
Xi..\v n:easure the hip length from J to M and make the bottom circle from 11, K, 
Z\l to L ; now divide on waist line from I to E for a side dart and seam, which 
makes this skirt a 5-gore ; also divide the bottom curve from K to L, making AI ; 
now cross a line from J to M, which completes the seam line at the side. Com- 
mence to work on the waist line for proper measurements. At I take 1/8 inch 
on both sides and curve down to the hip line ; after being complete with the 
curve at the front, measure over the waist, from A, I, J to E ; this will amount 
to IG 1/2 inches. Now take of¥ 12 1/2 inches for a 25 waist measurement from 
16 1/2 inches leaves the amount over of -i inches, which we do not want. Divide 
this amount, of -1 inches, on both sides of J, from J to O and from J to N, ; 
curve from O to X and N to \' down to the hip line. Be careful to make this 
curve lost right below the hip line with the round curve on the straight line ; 
before cutting out this draft raise a small amount up at O and X so as to 
straighten out the curve at the waist line when the s)<irt is seven up. This draft 
is not giving any seams allowed for the simple reason that we have not allowed 
for seams is that the system for all gored skirts remains the same, as it is much 
simpler to allow seams to 'as many gores as you want. For seams allowed on 
skirts, I have also prepared an outline how to draft the skirt pattern with seams. 
This lesson is shown at the end of the skirt lessons. T"or changing width of bot- 
tom for the skirts, also see the end of the skirt lessons. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



124 



Lesson 64 



125 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



• SEVEN GOEE SKIRT. 

LESSOX r,::. 

Bel'uix' cuimiK'iR-iiii; llic ; guiv skiit '.vc shall sue the frout width on top, the 
outlines are the same as the others, from A to I is :2-l/4 inches and from 1:^> to 
K is 4-1/2 inches tliis conqih'tes the front. Xdw Pleasure from A to (_' 1/2 of 
the waist, from (' toD ■'! inches, fnini D In K (1 Inches, these utiine- are 
the same as the heginning, now mal<e a curve from A to E as irsual, measure tlie 
hi].) 6 inches below the waist line always, from G to P is 1/2 of the hiji 
measurements, now cross a line I'l'inn K to I'^ down to \j. this is (he Inick length 
of skirt, nownie asniv the length in front fidin A to R 41 inches, measure 
the side length from . I t<i (.) 1:1 inehe.-, from K to 1j is the back h.'iigth [o 
inches, now make tlic cur\e en the bottom from 1) to K. (}. L, now divide from 
I to E on the waist and from Iv to L on the liottoni in 3 parts aa shown. Tlie 
waist line from I to 0, is the first part, from to N is the 3nd part, from N 
to E is the 3rd part, on the hotfom line, from K to M is the first part, M to 
Y is the second part, from "\' to Ij is the third |)art, now cross all lints from 
to M froEa N to Y. these two lines are the jilace for 2 seams on the side. Now 
in order to get Ihe gores of this skirt, we count the inside 3 gores and double the 
amount makes {i and front \\c count for 1, this makes it a T gore skirt, now curve 
the top on the waist line, measure from the total wai.st from A to E, now use 
the overbuilt amount for the waist and take this amount out on the darts on the 
waist line both sides of andN, from O t" T i^ 1 inch, from*) to S is 1 
inch, from X to T? and N to I' is also 1 inch, these curves shall be lost to 
the hip line at \' and W, both sides of 1 in front take out l/8th to either side and 
eurve also down to the hip, this completes the 7 gore skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



126 




Lesson 65 



127 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



;i (iurt- Skin. 

LA'.s.yo.v tji;. 

Before begining tlie 1> gore skirt enmnieiice the front suit-able for a 1) gore 
\\i;iel) IS 2 iiielies, from A to 1 is 2 inches, from B to Iv is 4 inelies now cross a line 
from I to K which completes the front of the skirt, now measure the hip G 
inches below the waist as usual, curve the iusido on top from A to E thi- is 
always 1 inch below the straight line, now make the back length line, frnm K down 
to L, always measure the hip first before yon cut this line in order to meet E. F, 
L. Xow divide from this 9 gore skirt, from I to E in four sections also the 
same from K to L, from I to is 1 section, from to J is the 'ind section, 
from J to X i3 tlie ;5rd sccti(m, from X to E is the 4th section on tli-' waist line. 
Xow make the same sections on the bottom line from K to il, from ^I to (^. 
from Q to Y, from. Y to L, now cross lines from O to M, from (i to <^). from 
X to Y and from E to L is the back length, this completes the se<-ti()ns of 
gores for the 9 gored skirt. Xow measure over the waist as usual and take nut 
the amount which is over built at O, from () to S from to T at Gr both sides 
to \' and W at both sides of X, R and P, now make these curves lost to the hip 
line as usual, before taking this amount out. In- careful to measure over tlie wai-^t 
in c/rder to balance the waist measurement and rai<c boih sides or the dart a snuill 
amount as usual. 

This cDmplctcs the 9 gm-c -kii't. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



128 




Lesson 66 



129 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



11 GOEE FLARE SKERT. 

LESSON 67. 

Tlii^ skirt is drafted with the same outlines as the ordiuarv skirt, the front 
of this is ako 1-1/2 inches on top and 3 inches on the bottom, changes of tlii- 
skirt are nor made at the ijottom where the flarn^'ss is allowed, before begining the 
draft of the outline for a flare skirt decide first the width of bottom for this skirl. 
it shall be known a* the flare skirt, it shall at least measure a 1/5 yard more tlian 
tlie width of tlie ordinary skirt, now suppose the width or an ordinary skirt on the 
bottom is 3 yards, now make for this flare skirt 3-1/2 yard.s on bottom, now tak-e 
1/3 of your increase, 1/2 of 18 is 9 inches, now divide carefully 9 inches into 
as many sections as you have seams between front and back, the seams which are 
between the front and the back are at the bottom, 'S\, Q, Y and U. Xow tliis 
means 4 lines where we can allow for flareness, now divide this 9 inches into 4 
sections, now allow 1/4 part of this 9 inches which is 2-1/4, from M to W, 
from Q to X. from Y to Z and from I' to XX. Great care should l)e taken 
liy allowing all this idwards the back and when all these parts are allowed raise a 
curve up from W to Tj, from X to 2, from Z to 3, from XX to 4, tliis means 
that all these curves shall be raised up until about 1/2 of the leng-th of the skirt, 
when cutting out be careful to cut out the front as usual, the inside gore from K 
io V\", from i[ to X. from Q to Z. and fiom Y to XX. from U to L is t!ie 
back gore of this skirr. the width and jiart^ of this skirt shall be curved as the 11 
gore skirt and seams shall be allowed for this skirt, this completes the 11 gore 
flare skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



30 




^OG 



Lesson 67. 



131 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



FIFTEEN GOKE SKIRT. 
LESSON 68. 

To begin tlie 15 gore skirt we draw all liaes as usual, from A, B, E, F to 
L, it shall be known that from A to B is the front of the skirt and from E. F 
to L is the l)ack length of the skirt. The front of a 15 gore skirt on top from A 
to I shall measure an 1-1/4 iucches, the bottom of this front from B to K shall 
measure 2-1/2 inches, now- draw a line from I to K to front, now "divide from 
I to E and from K to L into 7 sections, from I to T is section 1, T to S 
section 2, from S to V ~:cetion 3, from V to R section 4, from K to I' 
section 5, from P to is section 6, from to E is section T, make all these 
sections the same on the bottom, from K to J, J to N, X to M, M to Q, 
from Q to Y, Y to U, V to L. 

Xow cross lines from T to J, S to X, V to ]il. E to Q P to Y, 
to U and E toL which is the l.iack jiart of the skirt, now measure over 
the waist from A to E and see the over built from 12-1/2 inches and take out the 
amount over built at all parts towards the front at T, S, Y, K, P and 0. These 
curves shall bemade as marked on the top of waist and they shall be lost fo the hip 
line only, great care shall be taken when cutting out this skirt, curves shall not be 
made on both sides of gort-, all gores shall be straight towards the back and curv- 
ing shall only be done dowards the front. When tracing a 17 or 19 gore skirt fol- 
low the width of front as mentioned on lesson 1- and follow the same instructions 
in drafting as for a 15 srore skirt in all cases. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



32 



~^^ Jf 



'"t)& 



® 



Lesson 68 



133 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 69. 

EMPIRE, OR GIRDLE, SKIRT. 

For the Empire Skirt begin outlines as usual; draw a line from A 
to B and A to D ; from A to C is one-half of waist measurement, which is 
13 1/2 inches; from C to D is 3 inches; from D to E is 6 inches. Cross a 
line from A to E and take one-half, which makes H, from H to J is 1 1/2 inches 
deep; curve from A to J and E; draw a line for the hip, from A to.W which 
is C inches and from E and F is also G inches ; cross a line from G to F and 
measure on this line one-half of hip measurement ; make a line in front from 
A to B which is -il inches ; draw lines from E and F down to L, and make 
4.5 inches back length; measure from J to AI i;i inches, which is side length, 
and make curve at the bottom from B and M to L; divide A and E which 
makes J ; divide also B and L, making M ; draw a line up from M and J to 
H ; raise for the Empire effect from A to K ; from J to H and from E to P ■'! 
inches; curve K and H to P with the same curved roundness as A and J to 
E. Measure the waist on the curved line from A and J to E, and correct 
one-half of waist whatever is over-built from one-half of the waist, which 
is 13 1/2 inches, which shall be divided on both sides of J to N and O ; draw 
lines up to H from O and N. Then curve from O and N, as shown on dia- 
gram to fill in the break, so to make this waist half-fitting. The increase 
from E to P at the back part of the skirt for the Empire efifect should be 
raised up with a straight line from D up to P ; curve as shown on diagram 
from P to F. This completes the Empire Skirt, cut in four parts. This 
skirt can also be cut in five gores. Follow the same instructions as for this 
diagram. 

LESSON 70. 

HOW TO MAKE A GIRDLE BELT. 

Draw lines from A to C and from A to B ; from A to B is 6 inches ; 
from A to C is one-half of waist ; from C to D is 6 inches up ; now measure 
the space from A to C, and place the same amount from D to E, and draw 
a line; measure the space between A and E, and place one-half of this 
amount from B to K, and draw a line from K to E ; from F to H is 1 1/2 
inches deep ; now curve from E. H and D ; from F to I is the same space 
as from F to H ; curve also from E and I to D ; from D to J is about 3 
inches ; from E to L is .3 inches ; curve from L and G to J ; from E to O 
and from I to N ; from D to M is 2 inches ; curve a? shown on diagram. 
When cutting out this belt measure both sides, top and bottom part, from E, 
H and D, from E, I and D to have one-half of waist measurement and allow 
seams to both sides. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



34 



Lesson 70 



Lesson 69 




135 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 7L 

THE FLOUNCE SKIRT. 

F"or this skirt draft also the orchnary five-o-nre skirt. After having 
completed the outhnes of this draft, take al)out one-third of the front length 
from 1 to P; then take tine-half of the hack length from E to 11, making O; 
criiss a line from P to O, which will be the line to place the flounce eiifect, 
or the beginning of the attachment of the bi:)ttom part. This line will also 
secure the proper length from the upjjer part of skirt, wdiich is from I to P 
and from E to O, To begin the bottom part of this skirt, start the flounce 
ctfect ; divide E to O, making R ; curve as shown on diagram from P and S 
to R ; from T to S is one-third of (J t<i R ; raise from H to Y the same amount as 
we did from O to R: cnr\e the liottom fcir the flounce from j, Z and Y to 
X ; from K to Z make the same space as from T to S ; cross a line from X 
to R which makes the back ])art of the flounce gore. To cut out the flounce 
or the bottom part of this skirt, we begin at P, S, R, X, Y, and Z to J. 
For the upper part of this skirt we cut out the complete front from A, G, B, 
J and P to I ; this completes the front. For the inside gores we begin from 
1, P, T and O; this is the first gore: and the second gore is cut from J\l, T, O 
and F to E ; this completes the outlines of showing how to cut out the draft. 
The bottom part of this skirt from O and H and from P to J is not used. 
This skirt can be cut in as many gores as wanted. Be careful to allow all 
seams. N' '• ' iS 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



136 



Lesson 7 1 



^ ^" 



1 '57 HALF FITTIXG GARMENT. 



LESSON 72. 

THE CIRCLE FLOUNCE .SKIRT. 

For this skirt we first draft the five-gore outline. After having the 
outline complete we measure up from the bottom, B to P, 6 inches ; cross 
a line from P up to the hip point at the back of line F ; measure from F to 
R 6 inches, in order to have the width of the circle; cross a line out from 
P to Q, then take one-half of P and F to make S. To make the circle, begin 
to curve from P to F by S; curve your circle from Q to R, also curve by .S. 
This circle can be changed in width, and can also increase the back part 
onh- as shown on the diagram from R to X. This should be lost with a 
curve about one-half way, as shown lost to M ; when cutting out this skirt 
trace first the circle and then cut out the gores of the skirt as usual. When 
cutting out the circle you should decide where it shall be placed ; the proper 
place for this circle is at the front from P. If not wanted in the front it can 
begin at the inside front of the connection and can be made at T to Y. Y 
is one-half way to F and L. This circle shall always be placed across the 
skirt on a slant. Be careful to place the front of the circle to the front of 
the skirt. .Allow all seams for this skirt as usual. Tliis comiiletes the circle 
flounce skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



38 



Lesson 72 



139 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 73. 

CIRCLE SKIRT. 

To besjjin this skirt we draw a line from A to E and from A to C ; from 
.\ to C is 12 1/2 inches, or half of waist measurement; from C to D is (i 
inches; measure from D to I 12 1/2 inches one-half of waist. H is one-half 
of I and 1); from II to J is 1 1/2 inches; now curve from I and J to D ; cross 
a line dnwn from 1 to P. ; from I to li is the front length for the skirt, which 
is -11 inches ; measure from I to G (5 inches, also from D measure down to X 
() inches; cross a line from j to X and F for the hip line; measure one-half 
of hip from G to I-"; n^iw make a line from I) to F dmvn to L; from D to.L 
is the back len.a;th, 4.") inches; measure from J tci K for hip lens^^'th, 43 inches; 
make the bottom curve fmni 1! and K to L; the line from A to E is not used; 
the original front line is frmn I to 11. The skirt has no dart in the waist 
whatever, and gives a proportional bottom width which shall not be changed. 
This completes the circle skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



140 



Lesson 73 



141 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 74. 

TRIXCESS SKIRT. 

To Ijegin the princess skirt we first cut out one of our tight-fittiny 
.skirts, which do not carry too many gores, or very few gores. Suitable gore 
skirts for this style are St. 11 and 13-gore skirts. Now suppose we use a 
9 gore skirt and we shape the waist darts on both sides equally and then 
cut out a complete 9-gore skirt. ^lark out every gore separately, carefully 
separating one from the other ; on all these gores mark the hip length ior all 
gores on both sides which is 6 inches from top of waist down, ^^'e first mark 
out the front gore. No. 1, as shown. Bear in mind that the front has no seam 
at the outside of front ; from A to F is 6 inches, which is the hip length ; D is 
the inside part of front and top of waist ; cross a line from F to D up to G ; 
from A to E is also 6 inches ; raised up for the princess effect ; cross a line 
from E to G, which is the top of the princess allowance. For the inside gores 
we measure from the top of the waist part from A and D down to the hip 
length F and H, which is 6 inches from the waist down; cross a line from 
F to H and take one-half; cross lines from half up to A. E and 
D to G, this increases the princess effect at E and G ; cross lines from E and 
G and follow the same instructions for number of gores as follows : 2, 3, i 
and 5 ; the fifth gore is the Ijack part of this skirt ; at this gore we make some 
changes as follows: the hi]i space from the waist down are marked as usual, 
the same as the others; now take one-half of F and H, which makes I ; cross 
a line up from I to A and E as usual and the outline towards the back will 
be changed by running it from F and D up to G. Tlie Ijack part of the form is 
greatly changed, as any other part of the figure which makes it a very strong 
increase, towards the back. This completes the back part of this skirt. When 
all these outlines have been made to all gores we measure over the spaces 
nn top of each gore. Now suppose this will amount to about 26 inches ; 
measure the size of the form that you are cutting this skirt from, about 6 
inches up from the waist. For size :5() this measure will amoimt to 'M] inches, 
or 18 inches of one-half of this, lie careful to keep in mind that you have 
measured this skirt one-half way only, and therefore take one-half of the 
measurement that you have measured on the figure. Suppose your measure- 
ment is 36 inches, take one-half of this, which is 18 inches ; take off 3'our 
measurement, which is 18 inches, from 26 inches, which your skirt measures 
on top, or 6 inches above the waist; see that your over-built between IS and 
26 is 8 inches ; this 8 inches is equally divided on both sides to all gores at E 
and G ; at the front we shall only take off the outside part at G. Now curve 
all these spaces lest down to the waist and allow seams all the way down both 
sides of gores, except the front. For the front we only allow the seam at the 
inside part from G and D to C ; for the inside part allow the seams on both 
sides ; E, A, F, !'. and G. D to C ; for the back pleat of this skirt allow from D, 
which is the waist line, dnwn to the bottom at C. This completes the prin- 
cess skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



142 




Lesson 74 



143 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 75. 

DIVIDED RIDING SKIRT. 

To begin this skirt ^ve draw lines as usual : fnim A to C is 13 1/3 inches, 
or one-half of waist measurement ; from C to D is ;i inches; from D to E is 
6 inches ; from A to B is 41 inches, front length ; cross a line from A to E, 
one-half of A and E is H ; from H to J is 1 inch ; curve from A to J to E ; J 
is one-half of A and E ; measure from your waist and see the over-built, and 
whatever is over-built from 12 1/2 inches should be taken out on both sides 
of T. which makes R and T. This is the dart running down on the hip line 
or side seam for this skirt. Begin to work the raise, from ,\ to I, which is 
10 inches; this space shall be measured from the waist line down below the 
hip. The proper way to get this measurement is to have your client seated 
in a chaii and take her measurement from the waist line down to the seat, 
wdiich will alvvavs give about 10 inches for the majority of heights. From 
I to K cross out a line and measure one-eighth of the hip measurement, from 
B to M is also one-eighth of hip measurement, and 1 inch is allowed ; cross a 
line from K to M and shape from A to G to K, as shown on diagram. This 
completes the front part of this skirt. To begin the back part measure from 
K to M and apply the same amount from L to O up, cross a line from O to 
P one-sixth of hip measurement, and from L to O. which is the bottom of 
the skirt; measure one-sixth of the hip and allow 1 more inch; cross a line 
from O to P, which is the outline for the back part of this skirt, then curve 
from E to F to P, as shown on the diagram. This completes the back part 
of the skirt. When cutting out this skirt allow all seams. This skirt is 
closed in front and back, the opening takes place on the sides, as shown on 
the diagram from R to 1, and from T to 2 the allowance shall be made on both 
sides of the hip, as shown with a traced line on this diagram. The bottom of 
the skirt shall remain as drafted, no increase whatever being necessary. The 
regular width of this skirt shall be about three (3) yards on the bottom when 
complete. This completes the fli\ided riding skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



144 



Lesson 75 



-s4 — % 



145 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 76. 

SIDE-SADDLE RIDIXCt SKIRT— FRONT PART. 

In beginning this draft, be very careful, as these outlines are out of 
the ordinary. The measurements for this skirt are as follows : ^^'aist, 25 
inches: hip, 4" inches; front length, 4-1 inches; side length, 43 inches; back- 
length, 4.J inches: full hip length, 12 inches. 

To draft, draw a line from D to B and from D to K ; from D to H is 
:j inches; from H to E is 12 1/2 inches, half of waist, and 1 inch nmre for 
•seams ; cross a line up from E to F ; from D to G is 1 1/2 inches ; cross a line 
from G to X and from X to H ; from G to O is 12 inches hip length ; curve 
from X to O; from X to T is 2 1/2 inches, from O to L^ and^T to U is 
the side opening for a slit, to be finished with liraid or cloth as shown on the 
diagram. Measure the side length from X to B. which is 43 inches; from E 
to 1 is the same amount as from D to E. and I inch more for seams, from I to 
J is 6 inches: cross a line from J to K and allow (i inches; cross a line from 
I to K and divide the space, which makes X ; from X draw a line to J and 
C); from J to O is (i inches; cross a straight line at the bottom from B to L ; 
R is half of H and E. Measure from X to R and place the double amount 
from B to S ; from S to L is 43 inches hip measure ; from L to M is G inches, 
cr the space from F to I and K to M shall measure 43 inches, side length. 
Make all curves from X to R to F: from F to I, O, K and M to S; from R 
to S is the center of the front part. This completes the front part i;>f the 
side saddle ridins" skirt. 



LESSON 77. 



SIDE-SADDLE RIDIXG SKIRT.— BACK PAR' 



Begin new outlines for the back part; the back part of this skirt shall 
he drafted separately and shall be drafted in the opposite way from the front 
part. This draft begins on the other edge of paper, and when drafting the 
outlines draw all lines towards you, instead of drafting the front from you to- 
wards the other side or edge of the paper. Xow begin the outlines from A to 
V> and A to K; from A to I is half of waist, and allows 3 inches more, which 
amounts to 13 1/2 inches; from A to G and from I to J is 2 inches; from G 
to Y is 6 inches ; from Y to M is 1 1/2 inches ; from Y to X is G inches ; from 
M to B is 43 inches, side length ; cross all outlines, as shown on the diagram, 
from M to M, which is 1 inch: from H to O is R 1/4 inches, or one-fourth of 
the waist measurement; from O raise a line up to P; from P to E is 2.5 inches 
waist and allow G more inches. This amounts to 31 inches. From I to K 
is 4- 1/2 inches: from X to Q is IS inches: cross lines from P to O, O to J, 
1 to K, and K to E. Measure from E to X one-fourth of hip. or 10 :)/4 inches ; 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



!46 



Lesson 76 



147 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




cross a line from N to C: frimi X to D, which is 3 inches; from D to F is 
5 3/S inches, or one-eighth of hi]) measure. Square a line out by K and E, 
and allow IS inches; from C to S is 6 inches; cross a line from F to S ; meas- 
ure from F to T, the same length as on the front part from K to M. In order 
that these two lengths shall be the same; curve as shown on the diagram. 
From H lost to B ; from H to P ; from P to ; from Q to J : from J to K ; from 
K to E ; from E to R. from R to F and F to T ; from T to B, be very careful to 
have the side seams of the front and liack alike in length, as these two parts are 
to be connected to each other. This completes the back of the side-saddle 
skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER \48 

LESSON 78. 

|;1.()().M1.;rS.— I'ROXT I'ART. 

'I his garment tlilTcrs in all cases frcm the ullier garments. Tlie meas- 
ures II 1 this garment are taken diii'erently from other garments. The meas- 
urements are as follows: Ontsidc length, 43 inches; raised measurement, K) 
inches; waist measurement, 2 1 inches; hip, I'? inches; knee, 1.'! inches. 

()utside length measurement is taken tiom the natural waist line down 
Ic the hittom. The raise measurement is taken frcm the waist line opposite 
the full length of hip, which is about 10 inches. The waist and hip is taken 
as usual. Knee measurements should he taken tight around the knee. To 
draft draw lines for the front part of this garment, from A to R and from A 
to D; from A to B is 10 inches, raised, and from A to D is 42 inches outside 
length. Divide from B to D making Y ; raised 2 inches up from Y makes 
C ; then take one-third of C to D, which makes E ; C is the natural' knee 
line, and E is the changed knee line for the fullness or lap over which this 
garment needs. Draw all lines across and name all lines in order to know 
their usefulness. The line at .\ is the waist line; the line at B is the hip 
line; the line at C is the natural knee line, at E the increased knee line; 
the line at the liottom, D, is not used for this. Begin to work on the hip 
line, as this garment is mostly curved by the hip measurement. From B tci 
H is 42 inches, hip measurement, on halves, or lo 1/2 inches; cross a line 
np H to R ; from H to I is one-eighth of hip measurement, or 2 1/2 inches. 
Measnre from R to O one-half of waist measurement, or 6 inches; from O to 
P is 2 inches ; from P to O is 1/2 inch, from R to X is also 1/2 inch ; cross a 
line from X to Q. Divide B and I, making S; measure from B to S and place 
the same amount from E to W on the bottom line ; cross a line from \V up 
to L; this is the center line of the front part. Measure on the bottom line 
E on both sides of \\', on bottom halves or both of ^^' '•> and (! shall Ije one- 
eighth of the bottom, which is 13 inches, or one-half wa}-. This will amount 
to 6 1/2 inches. .Mlow i>n both sides from 5 to V 1 inch; from (i to (i 1 inch 
for fullness. Measure from I inside to V 3/4 of an inch and cross a line dow n 
to T. Allow from B to U 1 inch. Begin to work the crutch of the front 
part, measuring from H to I and place the same from H to J ; cross a line 
out to the side line ; now divide J and I making M ; cross from M to H wath 
a short line; this line will be the notch in front. From M to N is 1/2 inch. 
Begin to curve from J and X to I ; from I to T and from T to F ; this com- 
pletes the inside part of the front. Curve the outside part from (J to [' . and 
di wn ti' <i. This completes the friait part. 

LESSON 79. 

BEOOMFRS.— HACK I'.VRT. 

After the front part has been cut out, mark out the front part on 
another sheet of paper and cross all lines over from the hip and centre line 
as shown on diagram. From H to M and from K to X. When the front 
part is all marked out measure from I to H one-sixteenth of the hip measure- 
ment, and from H to M allow 1 inch at the bottom and on both sides 5 to F, 
and 6 tn G allow 1 inch to either side; from B to U allow 2 inches; from L 
to K allow 4 1/2 inches up. Measure from L to A one-half of waist measure- 
ment, or G inches, and from A to P allow 3 inches. Be careful to cross a line 



149 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




first from R to P belrjre measuring;', when the space is measured from A to P, 
3 inches; cross a Hne from P to K and take one-half of this, which makes O; 
take out both sides oi O ; V and W is 2 inches, or 1 inch both sides of O, 
and curve as shown on diagram. From O to T measures 4 inches from K 
to J — J is the front cur\e of the front part. Begin to curve from K to J down 
to M ; from ^I make a curved Hne down to F. Begin to curve to P and U 
down to G. For all these curves watch carefully the diagram. Seams for 
this garment are all allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 150 



LESSON 80. 

RIDING BREECHES.— FRONT PART. 

To begin this garment Ave draw the ouUines the >anie as fi)r the 
bloomers, except measurements arc taken from the knee, Ijelow which 
are the calf and ankle measurements. The measurements fur this garmcnL 
are as follows : 

Outside length, 42 inches: hip, 43 inches; 

raise, 10 inches ; knee, 13 inches ; 

waist, 24 inches; t^'alf, l."i inches; 

ankle, 12 inches. 

The knee measurement for this should l)e taken tight. The calf and 
ankle measurement is also taken close. The upper part of this garment l:)e- 
gins the same way. The original knee line at E is one-third of C 
to D; from E to F is one-third, or the same amount as from C to E. Divide 
between E and D, making G. Be careful to work all measurements as men- 
tioned that go below the knee. Work all measurements on (|uarters; at V 
both sides of 1 and 3 make one-eighth of measurement, wdnich makes onc- 
fourth of the knee, or (i 1/2 inches; now work the calf measurements on Jioth 
sides of W, which are 3 and 4, making one-eighth of 15 on each side or 7 1/3 
inches. Measure the same on both sides of T, 5 and 0, which is 12 inche.s 
ankle, or 6 inches both sides ; all lines are made on sides. Connect from the 
top lines as usual ; from U to O with a curved line ; from 2 to 4 and from 4 
to 6 ; from I to 1 ; from 1 to 3, and from 3 to 5 ; curve between 5 and fi as 
shwn on diagram. Be careful to follow all curves as shown on diagram. Be 
careful to follow all curves as shown on the front part. This completes the 
front part of the riding breeches. 

LESSON 81. 

RIDING BREECHES.— BACK PART. 

To begin the liack part mark out the frrmt and place it on another 
slieet of paper and mark across all the lines lor waist, hip, knee, calf and 
bottom line, which is the ankle part ; also cross the centre line from L to 
K up, down to NN ; from K to L is 4 1/2 inches ; this top part is followed 
the same way as the bloomers. From L to .A is one-half of waist, 
or 6 inches ; from A to P is 3 inches ; cross a line from P to K as usual and 
make the dart one-half of this space, which is O ; both sides of O, \' and W 
is 1 inch lost to T ; T is 4 inches below O ; from B to U, 2 inches for seams ; 
from I to H is one-sixteenth of hip measurement, and from H to M is always 
1 inch. Allow for seams all around; from 1 to A^ is 1 inch; from 3 to F is 



151 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Le 



Lesson 80 



1 inch, from 5 to D is also 1 inch; from 2 to C is 1 inch; from 4 to E is 1 
inch; from 6 to G is alsi;i 1 inch. Now curve the bottom of the pants from 
( r to D as shown on diagram ; allow from the knee down to the bottom 1 
inch for button stand ; from C to Z and from G to X curve carefully the 
inside line for the back part. P.e careful to follciw the curves as shown on 
this diagram. Seams are all allowed fiu" the front and back part of this 
garment. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 152 



LESSON 82. 

PAXTAT.OOXS.— 1"R()\T \'.\\<T. 

The iiantaloons are l:;eg"un the same way a-; the (ither ]iaiits. 'I'he 
measurements for this garment are as follcws: ( )utsi(le length, I';! inches; 
raise, 10 inches; waist, 24 inches; hip, 42 inches; buttom, Ifi inches. 

To draft, draw lines from A to K and from .\ to D; from A to T) is 
the outside length, 42 inches; from A to B is Id inches for raise. Dix'idc 
between P. and I), making V; 2 inches up fn.>m V makes C wdiich give.-; 
the knee line. Cross all lines. Begin to work the hip measurement 
from 1) to H, which is 42 inches hip measurement on hal\-es; from 11 
to 1 is -12 inches hip measurement on the eighths; cross a line up 
from H to K; measure the space between Tl and 1 and place the same 
from H to J and cross' a line as shown frnm J tn X. Xow measure from K 
ti: O 24 inches waist measurement on hal\es: from () to I' is 2 inches; from 
P to O is 1/2 inch down; cross a line fn.m R, (J lost tn .X; divide fnui I to 
P.. making S. Measure the space between P) and .^ and |ilace the same frtjm 
I^ to W. Xow cross a line up from W up to the top line to meet L ; measure 
the bottom on both sides iif \\' ; this space should measure 16 inches; from 
W to -'i is 4 inches, so the width from .S to 4 amounts to S inches; cross a line 
from 4 to P> to connect with the cur^•e at X; from i to I! is 3/4 of an inch; 
now cross a line from G to :! ; curve from I hist to the knee line up to 1. 
This completes the inside part of this front. Cross a line from I to J, which 
makes M; from M to H cross a line; from M to .X is 1/2 of an inch; curve 
from R, J, X to I; now hollow out the bottom of the front pants at W from 
4 to 3. To cut out this front part of the pants begin at Q, V, B, 2 and 4 to 
o. and from O to f^. R. J. X, 1. 1, .'i and tJ. This completes the front part 
of the pantaloons. 

LESSON 83. 

PAXTALOONS— P.ACK PART. 

To Ijegin this part of the garment we always cut out the front part 
first and place it on another sheet of paper. Cross all outlines from the waist, 
hi|), knee and bottom, also the centre line from Iv down to W. Measure 
from L to Iv, which is 4 inches; measure the waist iov the back part from L 
to ,A, which is 24 inches on hah-es ; from A to P allow ;5 inches for seams; 
fr(.;m P to K cross a line and divide, which makes C) ; take out both sides of O, 1 
inch on either side, which makes \' and ^^' ; from O to T is 4 inches deep ; 
shape from V and W lost to T; from B to U allow 2 inches for seams; from 
2 to 3 allow 1 inch for seams ; from 4 to 3 allow 1 inch for seams. Measure 
the inside part for the under pants ; from O to PI is one-sixteenth of hip 
measurement, and from H to Tvl is 1 inch ; cross a line from K to J. which is 
the strong part of the crutch, and curve as shown on the diagram from K, 
J. I to M ; from 1 to Y is 1 inch for seams allowed; same from 3 to F ; now 
ciu've as shown the small amount from P to P' all the wav down to E; shape 



153 



THE P E A C T 1 C A L DESIGNEE 




Lesson 83 Lesson 82 

Ijotli sides of the under pants on the bottom Hne as shown at E and F. This 
curving shall be started about 6 inches up at E and F; the amount of increase 
at E and F shall be about 1/4 of an inch. Curving will give the under part 
of the pants the proper shape for this garment when made up. This com- 
pletes the garment with all seams all<;iwed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 154 

LESSON 84. 
THE STOUT SKIkT. 

To begin the stout skirt be very careful to sec the ditfcrcnce in meas- 
urements between the waist and the hip, and also the difference in lens^th 
between the front and back, as the stout form L;reatly changes in measure- 
ment. The waist for stout is very large, according to the hip, as the hip 
measurements are very small. The measurements for this skirt are as fol- 
lows: Waist, 30 inches; hip. -1.') inches; front length. 11 inches; side length, 
-111 inches; back length, .'!9 inches. 

To draft, draw a line from A to C and frum A to II ; from A to l'> is 
one-half of waist measurement ; from B to C is ;J inches ; from C to D is ;5 
inches, only, instead of having C inches from C to D, from A to E is the balance 
amount between C and 1), which is :! inches, in order to comjilete the stout- 
ness in front for this skirt. Take one-half of A and E. making (i, from G to 
I' raise up 1 inch; cross lines from E to F and F tn 1); curve as shown on 
diagram; E and F to D; this is the waist line for this skirt; making the 
length for this skirt, E to H, 41 inches front length. We make the hip line, 
tn m A tci K, 6 inches, and from D to M is also G inches, for hip space. Now 
make a curved line, K to M. and measure one-half of the hip from K to M 
down to R and measure from D to R, 39 inches for the back length. Begin 
the front from E to I, allowing 3 inches ; from H to J. 6 inches ; from I to J 
cross a line for the front. Begin to curve at I both sides ; from I to O is 1/3 
inch ; from I to O is also 1/2 inch ; now make curves lost to V. To make this 
a 5-gore skirt we di\-ide from O to D, making N, and from J to R, makes P 
<pne-half of this space; cross a line from M to P, which will be the side seam 
fir this skirt, and curve the bottom from PI, J, P and R. Measure over 
your waist for the waist measurement wanted, then measure from E and O from 

to D, and see to it to take one-half of your waist measurement, and take 
whatever there is over-built on both sides of N ; T and S is taken out 
the over-built from the waist measurement. These curves shall be lost from 
-S and T to L ; be careful to allow all seams as usual for skirts. This com- 
l^letes the stout skirt. 

LESSON 85. 

A VERY STOUT SKIRT. 

Before we begin to draft this skirt we first shall see the different 
measurements, showing the reason why we call this a ver}- stout skirt. The 
reason for this stoutness can be seen by looking carefully over the measure- 
ments. The measurements for this skirt are as follows: W'aist. 36 inches; 
hip. .il inches; front length. -10 inches; side length. 3S inches; back length, 
•'id inches. 

You will see at the beginning by looking the measurements ()\'er care- 
fully that these measurements show a very large stoutness; the noticeable 
liart is where the length of skirts is greatly changed between the front and 
Iiack. Begin to draw the outlines from A to C and A to H ; from A to B 
is one-half of waist measurement, from B to C is 3 inches ; from C to D is 

1 1/2 inches. This is the place where the changes are greatly noticeable, as 
this skirt is raised up in front instead of in the back. Be careful to keep 



155 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



Lesson B5 



Lesson 84 




in mind that the regular length from C to D is supposed to be (i inches ; now, 
if you allow for this skirt from C to D 1 1/2 inches only, we should allow the 
balance of these 6 inches, which is 4 1/2 inches from A to E, which is tfie 
front part of this skirt; take one-half of A and C, which makes D; cross lines 
from E to T and from T to D ; curve the waist line from E and T to D. 
Begin the front part, from E to I. which is ;! inches; take out both 
sides of I at O and O, a 1/2 inch cur\e is lost to \' ; from A to K is 
6 inches down ; cross a line from K to M and measure one-half of hip meas- 
urement ; cross a line from D to JM down to R, which is the back length of 
the skirt, 36 inches. Now divide between O and D to make X the side seam ; 
measure over the waist and take out the over-built of waist on both sides of 
N, from N to T, and from N to S. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 156 



LESSON 86. 

A SKIRT WITH Sl^A.MS A LI.oWl-.I )— I )IA( i K AM XX. 

To cut a skirl with .seams, we lie^in the uulline as usual. Then draft 
the skirt with seams allowed. \\'e have to decide the amount of gore.s wanted 
before we can complete the foundation of the skirt, as we need to allow the 
seams in makino- the foundation. Xow commence to draft a S-gore skirt. 
Draw a line as usual for the waist from A to C, which is half of waist meas- 
urements. From C to D is the usual :? inches allowed for the dart ; from D 
to E we allow 2 1/2 inches for five half seams; 1/3 inch is allowed for a half 
seam. Now draw a line up from E to I', 6 inches as usual. Connect a line 
from I' to .\ as usual; measure parallel from A t< > G and from F to Fl (J 
inches; draw a line from (i t<i I, which makes the hip line; measure on line 
from the front, one-half of the hip line from (i to H and from H to I ; allow 
2 1/2 inches for seams, or the same amount as you allowed on the waist. 
Draw the back line from F against I down to J and measure the back length 
as usual; measure from A to K the front width, which is 3 inches; the usual 
amount we use for this skirt is 2 1/2 inches. As this skirt is cut with seams, 
we allow 3 inches for the 5-gore skirt, or 1/2 inch more for the additional 
seam allowed. The bottom from B to P is twice as much from the top part 
as from A to K. Now divide the top from K to T, which makes L, and from 
P to J. which makes O as usual, and draw a line from L to O; take out both 
sides of K. the front and inside gores are 1/8 inch. Measure for the total 
amount of the waist of the skirt in order to see how much we ha\e to take 
out for the dart. Measure from A and skip the 2/8 inch at K and measure 
from K to F; this wjll measure altogether about 18 1/2 inches; take off of 
this amount the waist, which is 12 1/2 inches, and the 2 1/2 inches which 
you have allowed for seams, which together is 15 inches taken from 18 1/2 
inches; this will leave us 3 1/2 inches over-built at the waist, which should 
be taken out for the dart. Now take this amount out on both sides of L; 
to M and N is 1 .'V^ inches to either side. Raise the amount by 1/4 inch up 
to M and N, as shown in the diagram, and curve the dart for about 6 inches 
below the waist line, as shown on the diagram. This comi^letes the 5-gore 
skirt with seams allowed. All other gore skirts shall be followed according 
to the same outline, or allow so man}^ half inches as there are gores to the 
skirt. The half inch is always sufficient for the half seam, or a full seam 
occupies 1 inch. A D-gored skirt occupies 1/2 inches, or 4 1/2 inches each 
side. For the seams an 11-gore skirt occupies 11 1/2 inches, or 5 1/2 inches 
for seams. Use the same rule for a yored skirt with seams allowed. 



157 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 86 87 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNi:-^ 158 



LESSON 87. 

A SKIRT PAl'TKHX.— DIAGRAM X. 

(With more or less fullness, as the proportional i)rodnces.) 
The beginnino- of this skirt draft is the same as usual. Draw a line 
for the waist measurement, which is S.") inches, or half of this is 12 1/2 inches; 
from C to D is 3 inches fur the increase. I'or the dart to he taken out and 
from D to E draw a line uj), which is always li inches. In case a narrow 
bottcmi is wanted for this skirt, we shall increase from C to K 4 inches, 
and raise up G inches from K to M, as usual; or if a broad bottom is wanted 
for this skirt, increase from C to O 2 inches only, and raise up from O to P 
(i inches, as usual. After this action the width of the bottom for this is de- 
cided, and measure from either point M, E or P. Parallel space of 6 inches 
to F and from A to G, also 6 inches, and cross a line from G to F, which 
is the hip line. Have the measurements of 21 inches for hip. Now connect 
the line for the back from either point, which is decided for the bottom 
width against the hip point at F. If a narrow bottom is wanted, cross a 
line from N against F to reach N. If a medium bottom is wanted, cross a 
line from E against F to L. If a full bottom is wanted, cross a line from P 
against F down to Q, and curve the bottom from either point wanted, as 
usual. A narrow bottom to this skirt will measure about 2'<i yards. A me- 
dium bottom for this skirt will measure about 2 1/2 yards. A full bottom 
for this skirt will measure up to 3 yards. For a medium size, which is size 
24 or 25 waist, and 42 hip. 



159 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

PROPORTIONAL STOUT MEASUREMENT FOR WOMEN'S GAR- 
MENTS.— FOR HEIGHT OF 5 FEET 6 INCHES. 

Size Natural Width 

of Back ^^'aist Side Sleeve of 

Chest. Bust. Waist. Hip. Depth. Length. Length. Length. Back. Collar. 



40 


43 


30 


45 


71/2 


151/2 


8 


18 


7y8 


7% 


41 


44 


31 


46 


7% 


151/2 


rys 


18 


8 


7y8 


42 


45 


32 


47 


73/4 


151/2 


73/4 


18 


81/8 


7ys 


43 


46 


321/2 


471/2 


r% 


151/2 


T% 


18 


8I/4 


7y8 


44 


47 


33 


48 


8 


151/2 


71/2 


17% 


8% 


8 


45 


48 


331/2 


481/2 


81/8 


151/2 


7% 


■ 173/4 


8I/2 


81/8 


46 


49 


34 


49 


8% 


151/2 


71/4 


173/4 


8% 


8I/4 


4r 


■±9% 


341/2 


491/2 


8% 


151/2 


7V8 


171/2 


83/4 


8% 


48 


50 


35 


50 
501/0 


8I/2 


151/2 


7 


17M. 


8% 


8I/2 


49 


501/2 
51 


351/2 


^y& 


15% 


63/4 


171/2 


9 


8% 


50 


36 


51 


8% 


15% 


61/2 


171/4 


91/8 


83/4 


51 


52 


37 


52 


87/8 


15% 


6 1/2 


171/4 


91/4 


8y8 


53 


53 


38 


53 


sys 


151/4 


6% 
6% 
6I/4 


171/4 
171/4 
17 


9% 
91/2 
9% 


9 


53 


54 


39 


54 


8% 


151/4 


9 


54 


55 


40 


55 


SVg 


151/4 


9 



SHORT AND STOUT PROPORTIONS.— FOR HEIGHT OF 5 FEET 

4 INCHES. 



Size Xalural Width 

of Back Waist Side Sleeve of 

Chest. Bust. \\'aist. Hip. Depth. Length. Length. Length. Back. Collar. 



38 


41 


28 


431/2 


7% 


14% 


• 71/4 


17 


7f8 


71/2 


39 


42 


29 


44 


71/2 


14% 


71/4 


17 


7H 


7% 


40 


43 


30 


441/2 


7% 


147/s 


71/4 


17 


^Vs 


73/4 


41 


44 
45 


31 


451/2 


7% 


15 


71/4 
7% 


I6I/2 
1614 


8 

8% 


7y8 


42 


32 


461/2 


7y8 


15 


8 


43 


451/2 


33 


47 


8 


15 


: 


Ifilo 


81 i 


81/8 


44 


46 


34 


471/2 


81/8 


15 


eys 


1614 


83/s 


81/4 


45 


47 


35 


48 


8I/4 


15 


63/4 


I6I/4 


814 


83/s 


46 


471/2 


36 


431/2 


8% 


15 


6% 


i6y4 


8% 


81/2 


47 


48 


371/2 


49 


81,4 


15 


61/2 


161/4 


83/4 


8% 


4S 


49 


38 


4914 


s-<, 


i:> 


(\% 


16i/i 


87s 


8% 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER I60 



Misses' Sizes 



PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS FOR MISSES' GARMENTS. 



Size. 


Breast. 


Bust. 


Waist. 


Hip. 


Depth. 


Natural 
Waist 

Length. 


Inside 
Sleeve 

Length. 


Width 
of 

Back. 


Collar. 


14 


32 


3.3 


23 


39 


6% 


14% 


161/2 


63/4 


6 


16 


34: 


37 


23 


40 


6% 


1.5 


17 


7 


614 


18 


36 


39 


24 


41 


6% 


151/4 


171/0 


71/4 


6I/0 



The width of back and collar measurements on this table is showinc 
the half wav onlv, with seams included. 



161 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 88. 

MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE FRENCH SEAM TIGHT-FITTIXG 
GARMENT. 

The outlines for the misses' sizes are the same as the 36, nnlv the 
numbers are changed regarding this size. The measurements for this size 
are as follows : 

Size 16 inches. Hip -iO inches. 

Chest 34 inches. Depth 6i 4 inches. 

Bust 37 inches. Natural waist length... 15 inches. 

Waist 23 inches. Inside sleeve length. .. .17 inches. 

To draft, draw a line from A to W and from A to D ; from A to B 
is 6 V2 inches in depth, and from C to A is 15 inches natural waist length; 
from C to D is one-third of size for the hip length, or 5 3/4 inches ; draw all 
lines from A to W, B to X, C to 1, D to XX; then measure from B to G 
and D to E two-thirds of chest measurement, which is 34, or 11 3/8 inches ; 
cross a line up from E to G up to the top line ; then take one-half of B to G, 
which makes H ; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches. Draw a line up from I tQ J ; 
from A to K is one-sixth of size from K to L, which is 1 inch always ; cross 
a line from L against J to make N. then square a line to meet I ; from G to F 
is one-sixth of the size ; from O to R is one-sixth of size ; from R to O is 
one-sixth of the size ; from R to \\' is one-sixth of the size, from D 
to 36 is one-twelfth of the size, or 1 1/3 inches : from C to DX is 1 7/S 
inches; cross a line from 36 to DX, and from DX up to A; cross a line 
for the front shoulder from C) to T ; T is at the depth back point. Meas- 
ure first the front shoulder before measuring the back shoulder from L to N, 
and place the same amount from O to U ; from F to FX is one-twelfth of size ; 
cross a line for the front armhole from U to FX. Allow for a seam from N 
to M 3/4 inch all the way down the back line. Divide from L to M. making 
25, where the French seam will be placed. Now we begin to work the bottom 
from 36 to 7, which is one-sixth of the size, or 3 3/4 inches. From D'X to 5 
is 1 inch less, or 1 3/4 inches ; cross a line from 7 to 5 ; from 5 to 35 ; from 
10 to 7 is 3/4 inch ; from 5 to 6 is 1 inch ; cross a line from 10 to 6 and from 
6 to 25 ; cross a line somewhat round to meet the straight line at the breast 
line; from G to 14 and from E to 13 is 3/4 inch; cross a line from 14 to 13; 
15 is at the waist line; take one-half of G and 15, making 8; divide also from H 
to 14, makes 9 ; 9 to 35 is 1 inch up ; cross a line down from 35, 9, 8 to 37; take 
out on both sides of 8 to 11 and 13, 3/4 inch, which is decreased on the waist line 
on both sides of 37 to 38 and 29 3/4 inch; cross lines from 11 to 29; from 
13 to 28; from 11 up to 9 and 13 up to 9; from 15 to 16 is 1 inch; from 14 
towards the front take out 1/4 inch; cross a line down to Ki, as shown on 
diagram; from E to 31 is 1 inch; from 13 to 30 is also 1 inch; cross lines from 
15 to 30, and from 16 to 31 ; measure one-half of bust from T to V, which is 
37 ; from V to X allow 3 inches for seams ; now square a line down from X 
to 23; from Z to 1 is one-twelfth of size; from Z to 3 is one-eighth of size; 
cross a line from \V to X ; from X to 1 down to 4 ; cross a line from 16 to i 
to 3 for the long waist line ; begin to make the dart in front, then divide 
across the chest from F to X, making 33 ; measure from X to 33 and apply 
the same amount from 3 to 17; then take one-half of 17 and 33, making 37; 
from 17 to 18 is 1 inch ; from 31 to 33 is 1 1/4 inches ; from 17 to 19 is 3 inches ; 
mark a line out from 18 to 30 and cross a straight line down from 30 to 34. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



162 




The space between 20 and 34 shall measure the same, and from 18 to 22 ; cross 
lines from 37, 18 to 22, and from 3; to 19, and 20 down to 24; begin to make 
the French seam in front ; divide the front shoulder from O to U, making 32. 
Allow both sides of 32, 33 and 34, 3/8 inch ; draw a line from 33 to 37, then 
draw a line from 34 to 38. following the line from 33 to 37 ; curve the line 
at 38 lost to 37, 19 and 20 down to 24, as shown on the diagram ; also curve 
from 37, 18 to 22. Now begin to curve the complete outlines, from A to L ; 
from L to M ; from M to 35 raise a seam up to 35 for the side body ; curve to 
G, 14, X and F up to U ; curve also the front shoulder from U to O and the 
front neck part from O to W down to X ; curve one-half inch at 1 to 3 and 4, 
as shown on diagram ; curve up from 22 to 4, as shown on diagram ; curve 
from the waist to the hip and raise a line ; allow a small amount as shown on 
diagram from 5 to 7, 6 to 10, 11 to 29, 13 to 28, 15 to 30, 16 to 31. Then 
curve the bottom ; 3 and 4 the same as we have at the back from C 
to D ; be careful to curve strong at the front hip from 16 to 31, which amounts 
to al)out 3/4 inch. The other curve should amount to about 1/4 inch only 
for the hip part. This is cut out the same wav as the 36 French seam tight- 
fitting. 



163 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 89. 

MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE HALF-FITTING JACKET. 

To Ijegiii this garment we sliall use all measurements as usual for 
any other size 16. Begin same foundations from A to B. 6 ^/2 inches de]:)th ; 
from A to C, 15 inches, and from C to D one-third of size, which is 3-1 inches 
chest, or 5 3/1: inches. Draw all lines as usual from A, B, C and D; measure 
from B to G and from A to C two-thirds of size, or 11 3/8 inches, and draw 
a line up and down from A to G; divide from B to G, which makes H, and 
from FI to I is 1 1/1 inches, as usual. All others are followed the same way 
as the first tight-fitting. This size garment and the effect of it together is 
built the same way as size 3G of the same style. The space fromV to 3 and 
2 to 4 is 1 inch, or the same way as on size 3G. The space l^etween G and 
5, A and 7, is 3/4 inch ; between 8 and 9 is 3/4 inch. The dart for the front 
is also built the same way as on 36. Divide the chest part from 1 to F, which 
makes X, and take the same S]5ace from Z to 38. Draw straight lines down 
from X to 23 down to 11 ; from Y to Z is 3/4 inch, as on 36. The dart which 
is on both sides of 15 is from 15 to 10, 1/2 inch, and from 15 to U is 1 1/2 inches. 
From 11 to 18 is 3/4 inch. Draw a square line from 16 to 27, and a straight 
line down from 21 to 31, and finish with curves as shown on the diagram, or 
the same as the 36 size. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



164 



18 a 31 



K'^ 



Lesson 98 



165 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 90. 

SHORT BOX COAT, SIZE SIXTEEN. 

_ To begin all these drafts, use all measurements as the first draft for 
this size. The measurements from A to B. from A to C, from C to D, is the 
same as always for Ifi size. In order to begin the bo.x coat's action, divide 
from I to J, which makes N ; take both sides of N, 3/4 inch, which makes 3 
and 3 ; connect 3 to E, which is the box line and the hip line connected. Now 
raise up from E to 4, 1/2 inch, and curve from 4 lost to D ; make the bottom of 
this back somewhat round for making the side line for the front part. Meas- 
ure from E to V one-half for bust ; from \' to X is 3 inches; allow for seams. 
Draw the line down from X to 1, which is the hip line; measure from 1 to 5, 
40 hip measurement on the two-thirds, which amounts to 13 3/8 inches. From 
5 to 6 is 2 inches, \\hich is allowed for fullness ; connect (i up to 2 for the 
side line and connect this side line of the front according to the back. The 
side seam shall be longer by 1/8 inch; as the back side measures from 1 to 
8, it is 1 1/2 inches; connect with a curve from 6 to 8 on to :. The buttons 
stand for this coat, which is from X to V. and should be 1 1/2 to 2 inches. The 
pocket for this garment should be followed the same wav as size 36, and 
some smaller following the size Ki or 34 chest. The lower pocket is always 
placed according to the front arm-hole line, which is from O to F down to 
the pocket place. This line gives us the center of the pocket. The pocket 
shall be placed 2 inches below the waist line for this short garment. The size 
of the pocket shall be 1 inch less than one-third of the size. This amounts 
to 4 3/4 inches, and should be equally divided on both sides of the centre line, 
which is IT and 18 for long coats. This pocket can be placed at least 3 inches 
below the waist line, and for long garments (! inches below the waist line. 
This completes this diagram. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



166 




Lesson 90 



167 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 91. 

MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE SLEEVE WITHOUT ANY FULLNESS. 

To l)ei;in tliis sleeve, we follow the same rules as 36, only the size 
changes. To begin, draw a line from A to F and from A to D ; from A to 
P) is one-third of size, or 't 3/-i inches. Half of A and B is C ; from .\ to F 
is half of the size, or 8 1/3 inches; from ?> to D is inside sleeve length, which 
is 1 ; inches for this style. E is half-way of B and D. Cross all lines from 
A. B, E and D; from D to I is half the size, or 8 1/2 inches. Connect a line 
from I to F; from G to \' is one-twelfth of size, or 1 3/8 inches. Take half 
of C and \'. which makes T, and square a line down from T to U, and connect 
from \' to C (see diagram No. 2). From T to X is 1 inch; divide from I to D, 
which makes j ; from J to K is 2 inches, and draw a line against 1, which makes 
from I to O 1 inch. From ( Mo P is also 1 inch; from H to N is 1 inch, which 
is inside elljow line ; from (_'r to S is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from C to N and 
N to G; from P to N up to S, or, if a straight top sleeve is wanted, draw a 
line from P to II and from H to S; from K to L is 1 1/2 inches. Connect a 
is inside elbow line; from G to S is 1/2 inch. Draw a line from S to N and 
line from K to E and from L to M. and from M to \\' : from X to W" is 3/-1: inch. 
Then curve the top part of the sleeve with a circle, which is made by the 
star. From \" to C finish up the front cur\'e ; from A' to S, this star is 
half between T and U ; curve the undersleeve at W and raise the same, as 
shown on the diagram, and then cur\e against T down to G, as shown on 
the diagram. The inside cur\e at the elbow line should be somewhat filled 
in, so as not to have the lines broken. The same instructions should be used 
for the outside of the elbow of this sleeve. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



168 




Lesson 9 1 



169 HALF FITTING GARMENT. 



LESSON 92. 

MISSES' SIXTEEN SIZE FIVE-GORE SKIRT. 

The sj'Stem of skirts lor misses are also the same as the 36 size skirt, 
only the front changes in width and the other measurements are followed ac- 
C(ir(lini( to the size wanted. The measurements for this skirt are as follows: 

Waist 23 inches Front length 40 inches 

J 1 i|) -10 inches Side length 41 1/3 inches 

Rack length 43 inches 

To draft, draw lines from A to B and A to D ; from A to C is one-half 
of waist measure, or 11 1/2 inches ; from C to D is 3 inches ; from D cross a 

line up to E, which is on^-six th of the size that this skirt should be. This 
skirt is sizes Ifi to 34, which is 5 3/4 inches ; cross line from E to A ; from A 
to G is the hip line, -5 3/4 inches, the same as from E and F ; cross a line from 
G to F and measure one-half of the hip ; make a curve as shown on the dia- 
gram from A and J to E ; then measure the length from A to B, 40 inches, 
in the front ; from J to M is 41 1/3 inches side length ; from E to L is 43 
inches back length ; from A to I is 2 inches ; from B to K is 4 inches, which 
is the bottom of the front. Divide from I to E, which makes J ; from K to L 
makes M; cross a line from J to M, which is the side seam for this skirt, 
take out one-eighth of an inch lost down to the hip line with a curve, then 
measure over the waist from A and I to E, and take out the over-built of 
waist on both sides of J. which makes N and O lost with a curve to the hip, 
as shown on diagram. Be careful to allow a small amount raised up at N and 
O in order to keep the equal roundness of this garment when having it sewed 
up. This skirt can also be cut with as many gores as wanted. Only the 
width of front must be changed to all difterent gores ; the width of front for 
misses' size are as follows : For .5-gore skirt, 2 inches ; for T-gore skirt, 1 3/4 
inches; for 9-gore skirt, 1 1/2 inches; for 11-gore skirt, 1 1/4 inches; for 13- 
gore skirt. 1 1/S inches ; for 1.5-gore skirt, 1 inch ; for l~-gore skirt. T/8 inch ; 
for 19-gore skirt, 3/4 inch. These are the front widths to be used for misses' 
skirts. The front lengths for skirts should be followed according to the hip 
measurement ; the back length should be followed the same as mentioned 
above. The proper space between front and back length measurements for 
a misses' skirt should be 3 inches. The seams for this skirt are not allowed. 
Seams should be allowed when tracing of¥ this skirt separately. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



170 




Lesson 92 



171 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

EXTRA STOUT PROPORTIONS.— FOR HEIGHT OF 5 FEET 
10 INCHES. 



Size 
or 

Chest. 


Bust. 


Waist. 


Hip. 


Natural 
Back Waist 
Depth. Length. 


Sleeve 
Length. 


Width 
of 
Back. 


Collar. 


44 


48 


34 


48 


8 


17 


171/2 


83/8 


sVi 


46 


50 


35 


49 


8% 


nVs 


173/4 


8% 


81/2 


48 


53 


36 


50 


81/2 


in/4 


18 


8% 


83/4 



50 54 37 53 83^ 173/s 181/4 Qi/g 



53 56 38 54 9 I71/2 I8I/2 93/8 91/4 



54 58 40 56 91/4 17% 18% 9% 91/2 

56 59 43 58 91/0 1734 19 9% 93^ 



58 61 45 60 934 17% ISVi 10 10 



60 63 48 63 9% 18 I91/2 10 ^s IOI/4 



CHILDREN'S STOUT MEASUREMENTS. 



Natural Inside Width 
Waist Sleeve of 

Size. Breast. Waist. Hip. Depth. Length. Length. Back. Collar. 



6 


36 


36 


34 


5% 


101/2 


11 


53/4 


51/2 


8 


38 


38 


35 


5% 


111/2 


13 


6 


5% 


10 


30 


30 


36 


6 


13 1/2 


13 


6I/4 


6I/4 


13 


33 


33 


37 


6I/4 


13 


131/2 


6I/2 


61/4 


14 


33 


34 


38 


61/2 


131/2 


14 


6% 


6I/2 



The width of back and collar measurements on this table is showing 
the half way only, with seams included. 



thp: practical designer 



172 



Junior Sizes 



proportional measurements for JUNIORS' GARMENTS. 



Size. 


Breast. 


Bust. 


Waist. 


Hip. 


Depth, 


Natural 

Waist 

Length. 


Inside 
Sleeve 
Length. 


Width 

of 
Back. 


Collar. 


12 


30 


32 


23 


36 


6I/4 


131/2 


151/2 


61/2 


6 


13 


31 


33 


231/0 


37 


6% 


133/4 


16 


6% 


Gi/s 


14 


32 


34 


24 


38 


6% 


14 


I6I/2 


63/4 


6I/4 


15 


33 


35 


241/2 


39 


6T/s 


141/4 


163/4 


6% 


63/8 


16 


34 


36 


25 


40 


7 


141/2 


17 


7 


6I/0 


17 


35 


37 


251/2 


41 


71/8 


143/4 


llVi 


71/8 


6% 


18 


36 


38 


26 


42 


-1/4 


15 


171/0 


71/4 


6% 



The width of back and collar measurements on this table is showing 
the half way only, with seams included. 



173 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 93. 

SIZE TWELVE.— JUNIOR'S I5()X COAT. 

I^'or this garment we use the regular measurement of the size wanted. 
Follow the same outline as the first junior draft of the sime size. The length 
of this garment is 40 inches, as from A to l(i. After having all outlines com- 
plete we first divide from I to G. which makes X : take from N to G. 1 1/2 
inches; cross a line from N to K down ti> 11 ; this line gives the width of hack 
on the side towards the front; E is on the hip and hox lines: from T to X 
is the bust measurement as alwa\s ; cross a straight line down from 7 to V, 
which is the bust measurement; from X to Y .'i inches are allowed for seams; 
cross a straight line down from X to S, the hip line; measure the hip 
from 8 to r> on the twi)-thirds; allow 1 inch from !• to 10 for fullness; cross 
a line from G over to 10 and down to ■-' : this completes the side part of this 
garment. Allow •'! inches for button stand from S to Y and from X to Z. 
Should we want the side of this coat shaped it shall be shaped from the arm 
hole. This completes the garment with all seams allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



74 




Lesson 93 



175 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 94. 

JUNIOR HALF-FrrriNG FRENCH SEAM JACKET.— SIZE TWELVE. 

The junior size is followed by the same instructions as all others except 
measurements are changed according to the age or proportions. Age 12 is 
the first size for junior. The measurements for this size are as follows: 

Chest 30 inches Flip 36 inches 

Bust 32 inches Depth 6 1/4 inches 

AX'aist 23 inches Waist length 13 1/2 inches 

Sleeve length 1.5 1/2 incher. 

These measurements can also be found in the proportional table for 
junior sizes. To begin we draw lines from A to 39 and A to D ; from A to B 
is the depth of size, 6 1/4 inches ; from A to C is the natural waist length, 13 1/2 
inches ; from C to D is the hip space ; from C to D is one-third of size, 5 
inches. Be careful to keep in mind that the breast size of 12 is lio inches. 
All parts should be followed according to the size number, which is 30; 
cross all lines at A, B, C and D ; from B to G and D to E is two-thirds of size, 
or 10 inches ; draw a line from E to G up to U, then take one-half of B to 
G, which makes H ; from H to I is also 1 1/4 inches ; cross a line up from I 
to J ; from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 2 1/2 inches ; from K to L is alwa3'S 
1 inch ; cross a line for the back shoulder from L against J to make M ; square 
a line down to meet I so as to make the width of shoulder in back; then make 
the back body line; from D to Y is one-twelfth of size; from C to S is 1/2 
inch more ; connect a line from Y to S ; from S up to A ; from G to F is one-sixth 
of size ; now cross a line up from F to Q, then measure from O to R and from 
R to O, which is one-sixth of size ; from R to W' is also one-sixth of size ; 
cross a line from O, which is the neck point to T, for the front shoulder line ; 
measure from L to M the width of shoulder on back and place the same from 

to U; cross a line from U to F for the front armhole ; then measure one- 
half of bust, which is 32 inches from T to V ; from V to X, allow 3 inches for 
seams; square a line down from X to Z, which is on the waist line; from Z to 

1 is 1/2 inch ; cross a line down from X to 1 and 4, then measure over for a 
button stand from X to 25, which is 3 inches, and the same from 1 to 3 and 
4 to 43, from Y to 7 is one-sixth of size, and 1/2 inch more ; from S to .-) is 1 
inch less than from Y to 7 ; from 7 to 31 is 3/4 inch ; from 5 to (^ is 1 inch ; cross 
line from 7 to 5 and from 31 to 6; cross a line from 5 to 48, then connect with 
a round curve from (i up to 48 on the breast line. Before dividing the shoul- 
der, which is 48. we first allow from M to N 3/4 inch and divide from L to 
N to make 48; from G to28 is 3/4 inch; from E to 27 is also 3/4 inch; cross 
a line from 8 to 27. then towards the back from 8 is 1/4 inch; from 9 to II 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



!76 




Lesson 94 



177 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



is 1/2 inch, from -i] tn 29 is 1/2 inch, tlie same as from E to 30; from 12 to l.j 
is 3/4 inch; cross a line from 29 to 1.") and from 15 up to G; from Z to 2 is 
one-eighth of the size; cross a line from lo to 2, then divide the chest part 
for the dart. Divide from F to X, making 49; take the same from 50 to 1 1 
and cross a line from 49 to IT down to 21 ; divide from IT to 49, making 28; 
from IT to IS is 1/2 inch; from 21 to 22 is '-i/i inch; from IT to 19 
is 1 inch: cross lines from 2S to 1S down to 22; from 28 to in and 
to 20; -.'(1 is the square line from Is. Xow square a line down from 
20 to 24, then divide the front shoulder for the front seam; from (J to U take 
one-half, making 32. Allow both sides of 32 to 33 and 34, 3/8 inch ; now- 
cross a line from 33 to 28 ; cross a line down to the front from 34 to 51 ; curve 
at 28 from 33 down to 18, and the same way from 34 to 51, 28 down to 19 
and 20. This completes the French seam in front. Now curve the neck 
part from O to V lost to 40; from \\' to 40 is about 2 1/2 inches; cross a line 
up from 4(1 to ;59 for the front lapel, which is also about 2 1/2 inches; mark 
the opening, which begins at 26. for this garment; cross a line from 26 to 35 
to ;i6 ; 35 is 1 inch from O ; from 35 to 36 is one-sixth of the size it 
should l)e. The space at the liack from 36 to 3T and from 35 to O curve from 
3T and O down to 40; make a cur\-ed line from 39 to 26; the collar from 36 
to 38 is 2 inches in width; from 3!1 to 41 is about 1/2 inch space; from 40 to 
41 is about 1 1/2 inches ; make a straight line from 38 to 41 and curve as 
shown on diagram ; make all curves by beginning at the back from A to L 
and from L to M to round the arm holes from N and 8 and G to U; from U 
to O is the front shoulder; shape both shoulders alike; shape the hip pari 
from 5 to 7; from 6 to 31 ; from 11 to 3() and from 15 to 29, also the front from 

19 to 20 and 24, also from 28, 18 and 22. Be careful to have the length from 

20 and 24 the same as from 18 to 22 ; curve from 22 to 43 and 1/2 inch up. 
To niake this jacket with a no-seam back take 3/8 inch off from A to 44 and 
from Y to 45 and cross a line as the line shows; use the increase that 
is abo\e at the waist line from S to 4(5 and the same from S to 4T at the 
inside part of the back; All seams are allowed. 



LESSON 95. 

JUNIOR'S LONG CAPE.— SIZE TWEIA'E. 

To begin this ca])e we draw the same lines as for a box coat. The 
button stand is 3 inches for a double-breasted coat front. When the draft of 
the box coat is all complete, draw a line up by the sides from 13 against 10 up 
to M and curve around from the shoulder at the back from L and M down lo 
10 and 14. This completes the back part. The front outline is also com- 
pleted the .same way. After having these side lines complete according to 
the hip measurement, raise the same line up to the shoulder line at U and 
clu-ve from the front shoulder at O and U to N lost to 12. When cutting out 
this skirt cut the straight line at the back from A and E ; from A to L, J to 
.M, 1(1 and 14; from bfto 14 is always 1 inch up-curve; 14 is lost to E. This 
eouii)leU's the back. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



178 




The front curxe from O to W, 16 and 15 ; to 3 and 9 ; from to 12 

and from O and U down to 12. The length towards L and M to 14, which is the 
back part, should be connected to the front part from O and U to 13. This 
front should be 1/4 inch longer. This completes the long cape. 



179 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 96. 

A YOKE FOR BOX COAT.— SIZE FIFTEEN. 

This yoke can be applied to any coat wanted, or to any size wanted. 
As a rule yokes should be cut for bo.x coats or full garments only. After 
having the outlines all cut out, be careful to have the breast line cross the pat- 
tern, which is on this diagram. At the back, from A to B and X to D, after 
having these lines, we begin the yoke part at the back, as from A to E and 
from B to F is 1 1/3 inches, and when one-point yoke is wanted, to one-half 
back, divide E and F, which makes X ; cross a straight line from X to M. 

\\'hen a three-point yoke is wanted at the back, follow the breast line 
as shown on the diagram ; from N to O is 1 inch ; cross a line down from O 
to P and curve from P up to R, then down to A. At P we have a full point, and 
at A we have one-half point. When this garment is all cut out double we 
have at the center back one full point and one point to either side, which 
makes it a three-point yoke. \\'hen cutting this back for a yoke be careful 
to cut the center hack on the fold of cloth in order to have no seams for this 
back. Follow the same instructions on the front from C to G and from D to 
H, which is 1 1/2 inches up; cross a line from G to H ; be very careful to 
notice the button stand lines at the front, which is from L to H and from I 
to D, and to divide from the button stand, which is L to G, which makes J ; 
cross a line from J to K for the one-point yoke on the front ; curve from ( i 
to K, up to L, out to H. Should we want a three-point yoke in front, a.s 
shown on back, we also curve from L to D, according to breast line. This 
completes the outline of this yoke. When cutting out this garment be careful 
to cut both sides separately and allow seams as follows : From E, M and 
F, which is the back; from G, K, L and H, or if a breast line is wanted, from 
A, R,. P and F and from J. K, L and D allow seams both sides. The upper 
part is the yoke, the liottom part is the lower part of this garment, ^^'hen 
raised seams are wanted be careful to allow all space allowance, which is 
about 3/4 inch, or any other lapover that may he wanted. This completes 
the voke garment. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



180 




Lesson 96 



181 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 97. 

THE JUNIOR SLEEVE.— SIZE TWELVE. 

'Iliis sleeve for the junior size should be followed by the chest number 
and the inside length for sleeve wanted. According to this size, the junior 
sleeve should always be cut with some fullness. The measure for this sleeve 
is as follows: The size of sleeve is .SO; the inside length for sleeve is !•") l/"2 
inches. To draft, draw a line from A to F and from A to D ; from A to B 
is one-third of size; from B to D is 15 1/2 inches for the inside sleeve length. 
Half of B and D makes E; cross all lines from A to F ; from B to G; from D 
to I and divide A to B, which makes C ; 

Measure from A to F, and from D to I, which is two-thirds of size, and cross 
a line from I to F ; the measure from G to V is one-twelfth of size; cross a 
line from C to V, then divide from C to V, making Y ; cross a straight line 
from Y to U ; divide Y to U, making the star ; divide the bottom line, D to 
I. which makes J; from J to K is the straight line down, measuring 2 inches; 
cross a line from K against I ; from I to O is 1 inch ; from O to P is also 
1 inch; from H to N is 1/2 inch; now connect with lines from O to N and 
P to N ; from G on both sides to S and W is 1/2 inch ; connect a line from 
S to N and W to N ; from K to L is 2 inches; from E to X is 8 inches; from 
X to M is 2 1/2 inches; cross a line from K to X up to C: from R, M and T; 
cross the undersleeve at the bottom, which is 1/2 inch at R and O, and 
cut lines from R to Q. This is the bottnm of the undersleeve; curve the 
sleeve on tup; the curve by the star from \", finishing at S; curve the under- 
sleeve at T and raise up o/^ inch, as shown on diagram, to \V. This com- 
pletes the junior sleeve, size 12. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



182 




Lessen 97 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 98. 

JUXIOR'S FIVE-GORE SKIRT.— SIZE TWELVE. 

JJefore beginning the junior skirt we first look over the waist and hip 
measurements, and also the front length of the skirt. The front length for 
skirts can be changed at any time when wanted, as we have no standard 
length whatever for skirts. The full-length skirt for juniors shall be followed 
according to the breast number, which is 30 inches for size 12. Regarding 
the straight line, we can make it to anj^ length wanted. The measurement.- 
for this skirt are as follows : 

Waist 33 inches Front length 30 inches 

Hip 36 inches Side length 31 inclies 

Back length 32 inches 

We draw a line from A to D and from A to B ; from A to C is one-half 
of the waist measurement ; from C to D is 2 inches ; from D to M is 3 inches 
up ; cross a line from M to A ; from A to E is one-third of the size of this breast 
measurement ; cross a parallel line for the hip according to the waist, which 
makes F; measure from E to F one-half of hip measurement; draw a line 
from M against F down to L, which makes the back length; curve from A 
and H to M, the waist line; measure from A to B, 30 inches; from H to K is 
31 inches ; from M to L is 32 inches for the back length ; curve a line at tiie 
bottom from B, K and L ; now make the front part from A ; 1 is 2 inches up ; 
from B to J is 4 inches. This completes the front. 

Shape both sides of I about 1/8 inch to either size; divide from I to 
M, which makes H; measure over your waist from A to M and see the over- 
built from one-half of waist and take out whatever there is over-built on botii 
sides of H at X and X ; raise a small amount at X and X ; before 
curving allow seams and curve from X, and N lost to the hip line 
and side seam. When no straight length is wanted follow the changes 
made in front to shorten length for about 3 inches ; measure from B to O is 
3 inches, which measure will make 27 inches in front; and from B to P is 6 
inches short, which will make 24 inches, to the length in front. When one 
of these lengths is wanted be careful to curve to the back line equally. AI'. 
seams should be allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



184 




Lesson 98 



185 



THE PRACTICAL DESiaNEii 



LESSON 99. 

JUNIOR'S CIRCLE SKIRT.— SIZE TWELVE. 

The measurements for this skirt are the same as the 5-gore skirt. Draw 
lines from A to C and A to B ; from A to C is one-half of waist and from C to 
D is 3 inches up. Measure the front length from A to B ; make the hip line 
one-third of size below the waist from E to F; measure one-half of hip from 
E and F and connect a line from D against F to J, which makes the back line 
of this skirt ; measure the back length from D to J and the side and front 
lengths; curve the bottom from B to I and J; always curve the waist first 
from A to H and D; from C to 2 should be 1 inch top curve. This completes 
the circle skirt. Be careful to allow all seams. 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



186 



Childrens' Sizes 



PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS FOR CHILDREN'S 
GARMENTS. 

Xalural Inside W'idlh 

Waist Sleeve .if 

Size. r.reasi. W'aisl. llip. Depth. Length, i.en-tli. I'.aek. Cellar 
2 22 2-2 -^S 5 !) ii :, 4V.. 



4 


24 


■).', 


ill 


^14 


Id 


ID 


0V4 


■") 


i; 


2(i 


24 


)2 


51., 


11 


1 1 


5% 


•^Vi 


,s 


2X 


2') 


',:] 


5% 


^2 


1 2 


C> 


51/, 


10 


;5o 


2r,i:. 


]\ 


(1 


1:! 


l:l 


6V4 


5:54 


13 


:n 


2(i 


',:, 


(;>4 


i:;i., 


II 


(1 1 


t; 


14 


;!2 


■)~ 


iii 


11' .. 


M 


l.-) 


IV;4 


•i'j 



The width nf liael< and ccillar nieasiMenients nn this tahle is .showin;; 
the half \\a\' nnh-. with seams inclnded. 



187 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

LESSON 100. 

REEFER COAT.— SIZE SLX. 

For this garment we should use all measurements, following size 6. 
This garment is cut in three parts'. The measurements for this garment are 

as follows : 

Size 6 — Breast "20 inches Deptli 5 inches 

Waist 24 inches \\'aist length 11 inches 

Hip .32 inches Sleeve length 10 inches 

To draft, draw a line fmm A tn R and from A to D ; from A to B is the 
depth ; from A to C is the natural waist length ; from C to D is the hip length ; 
the hip length is always one-third of size below the waist line; draw all lines 
as usual. From A. B. C and D, from B to G and D to E is two-thirds of 
size, or 8 3/4 inches for this size ; draw a line from E to G up to U ; take one 
half of B to G, which makes H ; from H to X is 1 1/4 inches ; cross a line 
up from N to J ; make the neck space at the back ; from A to K is one-sixth 
of size ; from K to L is 1 inch ; connect a line from L against J to M and 
square a line down from M to N. which makes the width of shoulder and also 
the width of back. In order to begin this back at the waist and hip we divide 
H and N, which makes I ; place a straight ruler from J against I and square 
a line down from I to the waist line, which makes 16, and mark at the same 
time at the hip line, which makes 17; from 16 to 19 is 1/2 inch, and from 17 
to IS is 1 inch; connect 18 to 16 and IT to 19. then take one-half of I and N 
and cross a line up from 19 for a side body : take one-half between J and X 
which makes ^Xfrom XX to AX is 1 inch lower; cross a line from AX, as 
shown on the diagram, and curve the back between the space at N and I losl 
to 16, and at the same time curve from the same place to 19 lost to 17 and 18 ; 
from G to 9 is 3/4 inch ; same from E to 5 ; cross a line from 9 to 5 for the 
side body, then increase the hip from the waist line down for the side bod}' 
from 10 to E ; draw a line from 4 to 3, which is 1/2 inch ; from 5 to 8 is 3/4 
inch ; cross a line from 3 to 8 and from 3 to G. This completes the ^ide foi 
the front ; from G to F is one-sixth of the size ; cross a line up from F to Q, 
from O to P ; from P to O is one-sixth of the size ; cross a line from O to T 
for the front shoulder. In order to measure the front shoulder we first meas- 
ure the back shoulder from L to M and place the same from O to U ; connect 
a line from U to !■" for the front arm-hole ; measure the breast from T to X ; 
from X we allow 3 inches for seams ; cross a straight line from Y to 6 ; from 

Y to Z and from 6 to 7 is 3 inches allowed for button stand on the double- 
breasted front. From 7 to 1 is 1 1/2 inches ; correct from 3 to 8 the hip 
length and connect with a curve on the bottom from 1 ; mark the opening of 
this coat at 2; from O to S is 1 inch for the stand line at the collar. \\'hen 
the line is crossed straighten out to 1/4 inch from O to 23 ; curve the neck 
from 23 out to A' ; from R to C is 2 1/2 inches ; from V to W is the lapel 
measure of 3 inches ; connect a line from W with a round stick lost to 2. 
From V to 25 is the notch of collar. This should be 1 inch less than from 

V to W ; measure width of collar at the back, measuring from XB to 24. which 
is 2 inches; cross a line somewhat curved from 24 to 2.5 ; curve a small amount 
at the back collar 23 to 24 ; curve the hips from the waist as shown on the 
diagram. When curving the side body at the arm-hole allow 1/2 inch up at 
X and C and curve as shown. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 100 



1 89 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

LESSON 101. 

CHILD'S IlOX COAT.— SIZE SIX. 

Before commencing to draft we first look np the measurements for the 
size wanted. The measurements for this liarment are as follows : 

i ireast 'Hi inches Waist length 11 inches 

Waist 24 inches Inside slee\e length 10 inches 

Depth 5 inches Hi]5 :V2 inche,^ 

Begin to draw the outlines frcmi A to R and from A U> Ki ; from A to B 
IS 5 inches deep; from A to C is 11 inches waist length; from .\ to Ki is ?1 
inches full length ; from C to D is one-third of size for the hip space ; cross 
i line from A to R; from B to Z; from C to 5; from D to 8 ; from 16 to G. 
After having all lines complete, measure on the hreast line from T> to G and 
from D to E ; on the hip line two-thirds of size or S 5/8 inches for this size; 
cross a line from E and G up to U ; divide from B to G on the breast line, 
which makes H; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches; draw a line tip from I to J; 
from A to K is one-sixth of size ; from K to L is 1 inch up ; connect a line 
from L to J out to M. which makes the shoulder width; connect a square 
line down from 'SI to I; make the top line in back: from D to 11 is one- 
twelfth; from C to \2 is one-half more; connect a line from 11 to 12 and 
from 1 2 up to A ; from G to F is one-sixth of size ; draw a line up from F to 
O ; from O to P is one-sixth of the size ; draw a line from O to T ; cross the 
Hue for the front shoulder line ; measure the front shoulder from O to L' ; 
before measuring the front shoulder measure the back shoulder from L to AI 
and place the same from O to U ; connect a line from U to F for the front 
arm hole; measiu'e one-half of the breast, which is 26 for this size, or one-halt 
is K) inches from T to X; from X to Y is 3 inches for seams allowed: cross 
a line down from Y to 3 and 8 and 3, on the waist line : from 3 to 4 allow one- 
half inch and draw a line down from Y to 4 down to the bottom ; allow the 
button stand from Y to Z, which is 3 inches ; from 4 to 5, and from S to V, 
which is on the top ; R to S is 1/2 inch up. and in order to raise for the closed 
neck. Now curve frorn S to V dow-n to Z ; from Z draw a straight line down 
to 6 and T; from 6 to 7 is 1 1/2 inches; divide at the armhole between the 
front and back; from I to G take one-half, which makes X; cross a straight 
line from X against E, which is the back line on hip down to 1 ; from 1 to XX 
is 1 inch up; curve from XX to 16; measure one-half of hip line from .^ 
to 9 ; from 9 to 10 is 1 inch, allowed for fullness ; cross a line from G against 
10 to 2; from G to 2 will be one-eightth longer than the length from X' to XX. 
Xow we mark the place for the pockets: cross a line down from F to 18 for 
the hip line; then take one-half between waist and hip. which is between G 
and 1.S, making 13; cross a line at 13 to a small slant towards the bottom in 
front and mark one-sixth of the size to both sides of 13, which makes 14 an-.i 
I."). riiis makes one-third of size for pocket. In order to make the slant side 
pocket make from 17 to 20 in ch. and from IS to 19 also 1 inch for the slant - 
ness; draw a line from 20 to 111. and from 19 to 22; 20 to 21 is the width of 
veil ; curve the arm-liole as shown from M tci X and G up to U. Always cur\ e 
the slioulders as shuwn on diagram. 

This garment is cut with all seams allowed. In case a seam is noi 
needed, take 3/8 inch off at A and 16 across a line as shown on diagram. Thi.-- 
com]deies the child's size lo box coat. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



190 




Lesson 1 1 



191 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 102. 

FRENCH SEAM COAT.— SIZE TEN. 

This garment is followed according to measurements of size 10. The 
measurements are as follows : 

Breast 28 inches Depth 3 1/2 inches 

Waist 25 1/2 inches Waist length 13 inches 

Hip 34 inches Full length 30 inches 

Inside sleeve length 12 inches 

To draft, draw a line from A to R and from A to 1.5 ; from A to B is 
the depth; from A to C is the natural waist length; from A to 1.5 is tlie full 
length of garment, which is 30 inches; from C to D is one-third for hip space; 
cross all lines from A, B, C, D and 15 ; when having all lines crossed measuring 
from B to G and D to E two-thirds of size ; cross a line up from E and G to 
U ; divide from B to G, making H ; from H to I is always 1 1/4 inches ; raise 
line up as usual and connect a shoulder line from A to K, making one-sixth 
of the size; from K to L is 1 inch up, to make the shoulder line, and from L 
to M to I as usual ; from M to N allow 3/4 inch ; cross a line from M to I 
and the same from N down from G to F is one-sixth of the size ; cross a line 
from F up to Q ; from O to P and from P to O is one-sixth of the size ; cross 
a line from O to T as usual and measure the front shoulder from O to U the 
same as from L to jM ; connect a line from U to F for the front arm-hole ; 
measure from D to 11 on the hip line one-twelfth of size, and from C to 13 is 
1/2 inch more; cross a line from 12 up to A and against 11 down to 
the bottom, making 15 ; measure one-half of breast from T to X, and from X 
to Y allow 3 inches for seams ; square a straight line down from Y to 6 ; from 
6 to 7 allow 1/2 inch. We allow from T to 1 and from Y to Z 2 inches for 
button stand. This button stand is allowed for a single-breasted front ; cross 
a straight line down from Z to 13 and 14; from 13 to 14 is 1 1/2 inches; 
from 12 to 16 is one-sixth of size, and from 11 to 18 is 1 inch more; cross a 
line from 16 to 18 down to 21 for the back ; now divide the shoulder at the 
back from L to N, which makes 26 for the French seam ; then cross a line from 
26 to 16 ; from 16 to 19 is 1/2 inch, the same as from 18 to 17 ; cross a straight 
line down from 19 to 17 and down to 20. Make a curve at 19 lost to H. This 
completes the French seam at the back part. From G to 9 and from E to 5 
is 3/4 inch space ; cross a line from 5 up to 9 ; 8 is at the waist line ; from 8 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



192 




Lesson 102 



193 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



to 10 is 1/2 inch ; cross a line from 9 to 10 and from 10 to E down to 25 ; from 
4 to 3 is 1/2 inch ; cross line from G to 3 against 5 down to 22, which makes 
the hip lines at the side. Now begin the dart in front; divide from F to Y. 
which makes X ; measure the space X to Y and place the same on the w-aist 
line from 7 to 30 ; cross a straight line down from X against 30 down to 29. 
Be careful to have the bottom from 14 to 29 about 3/4 inch more than on the 
waist line from 1 to 30 ; from 30 to 31 is 1/2 inch, the same as from 29 to 32 ; 
cross a line from 31 to 32 for the side part of front ; divide X and 30, making 
28; divide the shoulder at the front; from O to U makes 27 ; allow both sides 
of 27, 3/8 inch for seams, which makes 36 and 37 ; cross first a line from 36 
to 28 and from 37, with a space lost also to 38 ; curve the inside line from 36 
lost at 30; curve a line from 37 to 38, and 28 and 31 as shown on the diagram. 
This completes the seam in front. To make the shawl collar for this garment, 
curve from O to R lost down to V and make the stand line from 2 to S out to 
W, as usual ; from O to S is ! inch for the stand space. Between W and 23 
is th esame as from O to S ; from W to 24 is the width', of collar ; make a curve 
from 24 to V lost at 2 for the shawl collar. The width of collar in front can 
be made to taste or st3de wanted. The under collar should be cut out from 
24 and AV to 23, O and R to V. Should you want a top collar you cut out 
from 24, W and 23 straight down to XX ; from XX to 2 and V up to 24. The 
top collar should always be traced before the collar is cut apart or the under 
collar is taken off. The pocket for this garment is shown on the diagram 
somewhat slant. The original place of pocket should always be at the 
middle part of hip space at the front. This pocket is begun with a 1/3 
inch between 4 and E as shown at AX; cross a line from AX to 31 in 
front; take one-half of AX and 31, which makes 33; allow both sides of 33, 
34. and 35 for one-sixth of size to make this pocket one-third of the size. 
Shape the flap in this pocket as shown on the diagram. Flaps can be made 
to any width wanted. This completes the French seam coat. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



194 



Lesson 103 




LESSON 103. 



CHILD'S SLEEVE WITHOUT FULLNESS.— SIZE SIX. 



To begin the sleeve we use the breast measurement of the garment and 
inside length for the sleeve. The size we use follows size 6, or 26 inches 
breast measurement, and 10 inclies inside sleeve length. To begin, draw a 
line from A to F and from A to D : from A to B is one-third of size, or 4 .3/4 
inches ; from B to D is the inside sleeve length, E is the elbow line. 
Now cross a line from A, B, E to D ; C is half A and B ; cross a line 
from F to I ; from G to V is one-twelfth of size, or 1 1/8 inches ; now cross a 
line from V to C and take half, which makes T ; from T to X is 1 inch. Di- 
vide from D to I, which makes J ; from J to K is 1 1/2 inches ; from H to 
N is 1/2 inch; from O to P is also 1/3 inch. Connect O to N, and N to G; 
then connect a line from P to H and from H to S ; from K to L is 1 inch ; from 
E to ]\I is 2 inches ; connect a line from K to E, which is the top sleeve ; now 
connect a line from L to M and M to X ; from X to W is 3/4 inch ; cross a 
square line down from T to U and divide between, which makes the star. 
Make the curve at the star from \' to C and finish up the curve from V to S; 
finish the curve for the undersleeve from \\" with a seam marked to T down 
to G. At O and L increase the undersleeve length to Q and R with the space 
which is shown with a straight line from I, crossing out to Q, which is about 
1/2 inch ; the inside length for the top sleeve is from S down to P, and the 
inside length for the undersleeve is from G to Q This completes the child's 
sleeve with all seams allowed. 



195 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 104. 
CHILD'S SHORT CAPE.— SIZE TEX. 

To begin this cape we draw lines as usual according to the measure- 
ments of the size. Begin to draw lines according to the waist line and hip 
length, which is from A to B and C to D. Follow this cape according to the 
size of the breast. After having all outlines complete and the width of back 
line, which is from B to I up to J ; make a curved line from A to L for the 
back of neck and from L to J make a curved line out to the front to meet Z, 
which is the regular waist line. Curve a line from the front at O to meet at 
the back the regular waist line to Y ; measure round from L to M and place 
the same for the front shoulder line from O to M, then sweep a circle by O 
from M to be finished at 2 and 3 ; from S to 4 is -3/4 inch up for a closed neck, 
and from 4 to .5 ; from \' to \\". Allow at 2 to .3. 1 inch for the button stand, 
and curve as shown on the diagram. Seams and bust measurement are meas- 
ured as usual on this garment. From T to X is the breast measurement, and 
from X to V allow 3 inches for seams as usual. When more fullness is 
wanted for this cape in front, make a curve from L' to Y to meet U to C. This 
will make the fullness in front. This cape has all seams allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



196 




Lesson 1 04 



197 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 105. 

CHILD'S ONE-PIECE CAPE. 

To make a circle cape cut out the back and front of a short box cape. 
To begin, mark out the back first. From A to B is the length ; A to C is the 
neck at the back; from C to D is the shoulder width. Connect the front 
shoulder to the back shoulder as shown on the diagram from C to D. After 
this mark out the front neck from C to F ; also the front from F to G and all 
around ; cross a line out from the shoulder C and D to F. Begin to sweep 
from length of back at B by C to meet E and G, which is the length of the 
cape in front. This completes the short circle cape in front. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



198 




Lesson 103 



199 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 106. 

CHILD'S OXE-PIECE SKIRT.— SIZE TEX. 

The measurements for this skirt are as follows: 

Waist 25 1/2 inches Front length 20 inches 

Hip 34 inches Side length 20 1/2 inches 

Back length 21 inches 

To begin, draw a line from A to B ; from A to C is half of waist meas- 
urements; from A to B is front length for the skirt; following the chest 
measurement, which is 20 inches. Xow measure for the hip length 
below the waist line from A to E one-third of the size of this garment , 
the one-third should follow according to the breast size of the waist, 
which is 30 inches ; one-third of this size should amount to 5 inches. 
This means one-third of 15. Measure a parallel space from D to hip 
line which meets F; measure on this line half of 34, or 17 inches. Meas- 
ure the front length of the skirt from A to B ; then draw the back line from 
D against F to J, and measure the back length. Curve the waist ; G is 
half-way between A and D ; from G to H is 3/4 inch ; curve from A and H 
to D ; measure from H to I for side length, and make the bottom curve from 
B to J. This completes the skirt. This draft has no seams allowed ; onlv 
one seam should be allowed on this skirt, which should be from D to J when 
cut out. This seam can also be allowed when making the foundation lines. 
In drafting allow the seam, and an additional 1/2 inch, measuring the waist 
from A to C. From C to D is always 3 inches, and when the seam is allowed 
on the waist, the seam should also be allowed when measuring the hip from E 
to F. Seams can always be allowed by making foundations in the same 
manner. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



200 




Lesson 1 06 



201 



HALF FITTING GARMENT. 




LESSON 107 

ONE-PIECE SLEEVE WITFI FULLNESS ON THE BOTTOM.— SIZE 

SIX. 



For this sleeve cut out the first sleeve. After having all cut out, mark 
out the top sleeve, A, B, D, C to A. When the top sleeve is all marked 
out connect the undersleeve at the top, C and H ; when connecting be careful 
to connect the under and top sleeve according to shape from A, K to M to G. 
When this undersleeve is placed according to above rule mark out the under- 
sleeve all around as shown from E, G, E, F to H. Curve the bottom for 
the sleeve from B to H, then curve the top part as usual from A to G; from 
J to K is 1 inch less, and from L to M is 1 inch more. All these sleeves have 
seams allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 202 



GRADING 



FOR 



WOMEN'S, MISSES', 



JUNIORS' 8c CHILDREN'S 



Cloaks and Suits 



203 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE INTEREST OF GRADING. 

Even.- garment worn by women, misses, juniors and children are manu- 
factured in different sizes, in order to suit all kinds of shapes and forms. In 
wholesale manufacturing the medium sizes are adapted for the model or 
sample garments on which all designs and ideas are worked, and when this 
model is finished to the full satisfaction of the designer or concern regarding 
the st>le and fit, all the different sizes are graded from the model pattern. 
Here is where the grading plaj'S its part, and where all the responsibility 
rests on the one .who grades the patterns. Here is where the grader must 
have the practical knowledge of proportions and how to apply the rules of 
proportions to the main fitting actions. It should be known that it makes no 
difference by what s\stem the pattern is cut the grading has nothing to do 
with it. If the model size fits to perfection the whole set will be perfect. 

In women's garments the medium size is 36. In misses' garments the 
medium size is 16. In juniors the size is 15. In children's garments the 
medium size is 6. These four forms are strictly different from each other. 
The child grows very fast until the age of 15J, therefore the body wavers in 
length and in circumference, but alwa3-s flat in formality. 

•The junior also grows fast until the age of 16. The bust for this age 
is somewhat developed and waist more shapeh*. The hip is also a great deal 
developed. The difference between these two forms sholud be particularly 
noticed, as they are most of the time misunderstood by all. 

The misses do not grow in height as fast as the child and junior, but 
she develops more in circumference, especially around the bust, until the 
age of 21. The women remain about the same, with the exception that some 
have extra large busts and narrow chests with ven,- large hips. 

Before commencing to grade, we need to decide where grading should 
be done. The size of the garment should be the first outlook, so as to know 
how much to increase or decrease, also the difference between the height and 
width of garments. Any portion of a garment that has any gather, folds, 
pleats or shirring is not necessary to be graded. 

To obtain satisfactory.- results, use your patterns as you draft them. 
Face up and cut your model patterns of heavy paper and place them to be 
graded according to the system of grading. Be ver\- careful and exact in 
measuring the distance between the patterns. Be very exact, accurate and 
have patience. 

By doing so you will save both time and material. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 204 



CORRECTION ON GRADING. 

W'hen commenciniy to grade be very careful to remember the size of the 
model pattern, also the size to be graded, or increase from the model pattern. 
It is also proper to keep in mind the different sections that are used for design- 
ing and garment cutting, which arc as follows : the women's sizes, misses' 
sizes, juniors' sizes and children's sizes. We need to keep in mind the dif- 
ferent sections in order to know what increase is necessary for their sections. 
It is also proper to know what proportionate measurements are required for 
the different model sizes for either section. 

Be careful to have all seams allowed before grading. It should not 
make any difference what sort of pattern is used or what the size of the 
garment is. Whatever part of the garment it is, we should always be sure the 
seams are allowed. Folds, seams and shirring are not to be graded, for the sim- 
ple reason that all the grading that is to be done is followed according to the 
most outgoing part of the garment. 

MANUAL OF GRADING SIZES. 

The grading sizes for the medium women's sizes. We use size '36 for 
the model pattern. 

For the misses, size 16 for the model pattern. 

For the junior size we use size 15 for the model pattern. 

I'^or the children's size we use size (i or 10 for the model pattern. 

For infants' size we use size 4 for a model pattern. 

For the regular stouts, which are women's sizes only, we use size 45 
for a model pattern. 

For short stouts we use size 42 for a model pattern. 

For extra stouts we should use size 48 for a model pattern. 

The grading for all these stouts are to be followed according to the 
space between size, as usual. 

The skirts for all dift'erent sizes should be graded according to the 
waist and hip measurements only. 

Lengths for all skirts have no special rule. 



205 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 108. 

HOW TO GR.\DE A BLOUSE.— 36 TO 38. 

Before beginning to grade, prepare the pattern on a draft. It is proper 
and practical to draft a pattern directly for the grading purpose. When the 
draft is drawn complete cut out the front and back seperately and place on a 
separate sheet of paper for the back only, as the back should be the first part 
to be graded. Now draw a line from the back from 10 to 11 and shift the 
pattern in 1/8 inch from 10 to A and from 11 to D. This is the be- 
ginning for grading the width or the size of the pattern from 36 to 38. From 
36 to 38 we should grade 1 inch, as the space between 36 to 38 is 2 inches, and 
we grade half of the amount for half of the patterns. Now increase up from 
A to 10 and from L to 9 and from M to H 1/8 inch lost to B ; from 5 to B is 
1/4 inch; from 4 to 12 is 1/8 inch. This completes the back grading tor 
the blouse. Before we begin the front part we should know how much we 
have increased the width between 36 and 38. This width measurement should 
be decided on the breast lines only at T. We have allowed at the back 1/8 
inch, and from o to B we have allowed 2/8 inch. This amounts to •^/8 inch 
graded on the width of the back. Now it means that we have -5/8 ch to 
increase for the width of the front We begin to increase the front, and from 
6 to C all the way down is 3 to E, which is 1/8 inch. The proper way to begin 
to grade the front of the blouse is to draw a line from 1 to 2 and 
place the pattern there from X to Z ; make the cur\-e according to 
the pattern of th'' neck from 2 to T. When this curvx is made, shift the 
front pattern back from 1 to X and 2 to Z and from 7 to O. First divide 
between 7 and O, which makes S, and make the cur\-e from S to 2, which is 
the middle cur^e from S to 2. Now allow for the height of shoulders, raising 
up from O to S and from U to 8, 1/8 inch. Now you can allow 1/8 inch all 
the way down on the side body from 6 to C and 3 to E, and finish up 
from E the waist curve as shown on the diagram. Look over again the 
increasing of the depth and also the height, which is the increase of the depth 
from the breast line up to the neck. For grading larger and smaller 
sizes increase or decrease the same amount ; for grading two larger sizes 
at a time, increase twice the amount ; or, by grading two smaller sizes, de- 
crease twice the amount. Always be careful not to increase or decrease more 
than is needed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



206 




Lesson 108 



207 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 109. 

HOW TU GRADE A BOX COAT FROM SIZE 3G TO SIZE 38. ' 

Before commencing to grade, cut out front and back separately. As a 
rule we use size 36 for a model pattern for women's sizes. After having the 
front and back pattern cut out. place the back on a separate sheet of paper 
and mark all around as follows : From A. B, C, G, F and E to D. It is proper 
to have the breast line on each part of the pattern, as on the back the bixast 
line is from B crossed to F. E.xtend a line from B, which is the back de^ ih 
point from B to D, which increases the neck part, and again from B to E, 
which increases the width of the shoulder. Increase or grade from 36 to 38; 
from A to N and from D to ]M is 1/S inch, also from E to L is 1/S inch in 
height and width ; from F to K and from G to J is 3/8 inch. The length for 
this coat is shown from C to H and from J to I. and is graded according to the 
length. This length can be increased from 1/2 inch to 1 inch. For women's 
garments we should grade a very small amount in length for women's sizes. 
For copying the next size, which is size 38. according to the increase which 
has been made, use the original model pattern. This completes the back part. 

Place the front part on a separate sheet of paper, mark all around and 
increase from Y to Z and O to X. which is 1/8 inch. Increase the shoulder 
in height from E to B at the front neck point to A 1/S inch. Regarding 
the proper increasing of the neck, I have prepared an outline which will give 
the proper action for this part of the garment. In order to begin, straighten 
front part under the arm-hole as shown at W. This line from W to U is 
1 1/2 inches up. Draw a line up against A. which will show the proper 
increases for the height and width and for the height of neck. In order to 
increase the ending part for the neck, mark oft the amount for buttcn stand, 
which is from I to X. Take half from W to X, which makes V, and extend 
lines from V to beginning of the neck notch or beginning of lapel to F, and 
also to the finishing of the lapel which is from V to H. Increase from F to C, 
which is 1/8 inch, and from II to D is 1/4 inch. Increase the front part from 
I to J all the way down to N. which is 1/2 inch. Xow increase the length in 
front at bottom, the same as you increased the back length. The place for 
pocket should also be increased in height. The original pocket for 3() size, 
which is shown on the diagram, is at R and O ; for size 38 increase 1/2 incli 
for lower pocket, which is from O to T and from R to S. For smaller sizes 
decrease to the same amount in height for the size of pocket. This completes. 
the box coat srrading. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



208 




Lesson 109 



209 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON no 

HOW TO GRADE A LOXG CAPE, SIZES 3G TO 38. 

In beginning to grade cut out front and hack pattern and mark out 
first part on a separate sheet of paper. Mark out the l>ack from A, D, G, and 
C to B up to A and X ; G is tlie lireast line. Draw a Hne from X against D, 
which will increase the space for a larger size from E to F or for a smaller 
size below A. Increase size 36 to size 38 ; increase from A to E and 
from D to F ]/8 inch ; from G to H is 1/4 inch all the way down to C and I. 
If a longer cape is wanted for larger sizes increase from B to Y and I to 
J 1/2 inch. This completes the back grading. In order to begin the front 
part for grading mark out front on a sheet of paper, cross a line on front pattern 
at T and X. Draw a line from N to O out to O and draw bias line 
for increasing at K and P, following the slantness of O and O; from 
K to S, from P to R and from O to O is 1/8 inch ; increase from Size 
3G to 38 and from X to X all the way down to M ; U is 1/4 inch. Xow use 
the cur\e from Q to X, as shown on the diagram with a broken line all the 
way down to Z; from T to \' and L to W' is 1/2 inch; increase from \V to 
Y ; U to Z is 1/2 inch, for increasing the length from one size to another. It 
..s not necessary to grade women's sizes in length, as all sizes can remain 
alike in length. The size for itself grades at the upper part from the breast 
line uj) to the neck. For smaller sizes decrease to the same amount as we 
increase for larger sizes ; reduce 40 size to a 3(5 the same way. This com- 
jiletes this grading. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



210 




Lesson 1 10 



211 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

LESSON 111. 

lUJW TO GRADE A HALF-FITTING' SEAM JACKET. 

To grade this garment we also complete the pattern and cut out the 
original parts in order to ha\-e the breast and waist line and all other founda- 
tions. Mark each part of the garment separately on a separate sheet of 
paper before commencing to grade this pattern. We have to keep in mind 
that this garment is cut in four parts, two for back and two for front. Begin 
to grade at the back ; from A to B is the depth line. Cross a line against D 
from the depth point and also a line from B to E and increase from A to H 
and from D to I ; from E to J is 1/8 inch for increase of depth; from F to 
K increase a full 1/16 inch, as this part of the waist of garment should in- 
crease a very small amount ; from G to L increase a full 1/8 inch. Draw lines as 
shown from 11 and I to T and K to L to make the 38 size. Now mark out 
the second part, from M," N, O, P, R, S, K, and T to M; from M to T is 3 
inches. Draw a line from T against N in order to extend the shoulder line : 
increase all around 1/8 inch from M to U, from N and V, and from O to W ; 
from P to Y and R to X is 3/16 inch. Curve as shown on the diagram. Be 
careful to draw a straight line, which is increased from the breast at O and 
W, as this space from O to P and W to Y is not increased in height. The 
increase is only made from the depth up from W up to N and V and U. This 
completes the second part. To begin part 3, or the inside part of front, 
mark out the original pattern, A, B, C, D. E, and F up to A; also increase 
at the side from C to J, D to K, E to L, a full 1/8 inch. From B to X and 
A to N is 1/8 inch; increase for the height and from .\ and N towards the 
front to F and Q, also 1/8 inch increased for size 38. In order to get the 
right point towards the front, draw a line from C against A to make N, as 
this line gives the original increase for this part of the garment. Begin part 
4, or the "front part. Before making the front part we should always look up 
the increase we have made to all raised parts. Look over the increase that 
we have made at the back, side and inside part. In order to know the in- 
crease, we look up carefully each separate part. Side and inside part of front 
we have increased 1/8 inch. This 1/8 inch should be increased full in order 
that this 3/8 inch should amount to 4/8 ov 1/2 inch. .\t the inside part of 
the front we have increased 1/8 inch; this will amount to .5/8 inch. As men- 
tioned already, we have to increase 1 inch from one size to another to com- 
plete one size. Now see the outlines that you have to increase. We have 
increased 5/8 inch, so we have a balance of 3/8 inch left for the front, then 
place this 3/8 inch from V to A and from W to B for the front increase. Now 
increase the depth from R to Y ; from S to Z is 1/8 inch towards the front, 
and from S to O always increase with a snug 1/4 inch, lost to XX with 1/8 
inch only. To\\-ards the front from U to C always increase one-half of the 
amount that is increased between V and A. Make the increased line from 
Y, Z, XX. C and .\ to B. This completes the fourth part. When grading, 
be careful to look over each gore to see that it is graded. We must at times 
grade every part towards the front in order to increase the width, and also 
one side of every gore is graded. The inside part of front, or part 3, is 
graded on both sides, as this part of the garment answers two purposes ; first, 
under the armhole to finish up the increase effect towards the back, and the 
other, which is the bust increase. This completes the grading of the half- 
fitting French seam jacket. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



212 




213 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 112. 

HOW TO GRADE A TIGHT-FITTING GARMENT, 36 TO 38. 

Before commencing to grade this garment cut out all parts separately 
and mark tliem out on a separate sheet of paper as usual. When commencing 
to draft lines for the required proportions Ijc careful to have the waist and 
breast line accurate. We always begin to grade part of the back first, .\ftei 
having all your outlines marked out separate count them over carefull}- and 
see how many parts in which the garment is divided. This garment has front 
and back and two side bodies. This means that this garment is cut in four 
pieces. Increase at the depth point at the back from A to B and from D 
to T ; from E to K is 1/8 inch, the same all around from F to L, from G to 
M and from H to N. This completes the back part, or part one. Begin the 
side body, or part two, and increase the width 1/8 inch from A, H and I ; 
from B, T and C to K and D to L. This completes part 2. Now increase 
part three, or the underarm side body, from F to G, from E to H ; from D to I 
is 1/8 inch. This completes part three. At the very last we should begin 
to grade the front part, or part four. Before beginning the front look up the 
increase that has been made for the raised parts and count the increase in 
order to know the balance of increase for the front. We should always in- 
crease 1/8 inch at the side part, which is from B, O, C, P, and D to Q. Count 
the increase wdiich you have made to all parts. At the back we have 1/8 
inch. The underarm side body is also 1/8 inch, and at the side of front we 
also have 1/8 inch. This means we have increased 1/2 inch, so now we have 
another 1/3 inch to be increased. All this is allowed at the outside part from 
I to S, from H to R, and from L to M towards the front or neck point. From 
L to M we increase a snug 1/4 inch, which is lost with 1/8 inch to K and U 
and j to T; increase one-half of the amount you have increased from I to S 
for the width of the lapel. Now follow the breast line for the size 38 out- 
lines. For all sizes follow the same instructions. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




215 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 113. 

HOW TO GRADE A TIGHT-FITTIXG FRENCH SEAM, .S(! TO 38. 

Before we begin to grade we cut out each part separately. This gar- 
ment consists of five parts. Be careful to have the breast and waist lines in 
parts as shown on diagram. Begin at the back and mark out all around 
from A. E, F. G, H, C, B and D up to A; cross lines from the depth point, 
which makes D tt) E and F; allow 1/8 inch from A to I, E and J ; from F to K 
same as from H to M : from G to L should be a snug 1/8 inch ; now make a 
curve from I to J and L to M. This completes the back part. 

To begin the second part, mark out the original pattern on another 
sheet of paper ; cross a line from the arm point to B and from B to H ; make 
a line increase from H to J, and from A to I is 1/8 inch, raised to the arm 
depth; allow 1/S inch from G to K; from F to L the second 1/8 inch, and 
from E to AI 1/8 inch. Curve lines as shown from I, J, K. L and !M. This 
completes the second part. 

To begin part three, which is the underarm side body, increase at the 
inside part from D to G and from E to H ; from F to I is 1/8 inch ; curve a 
line as shown to the breast line. This completes part three. Begin part 
four, which is the inside part of front ; mark out the original part from A, E, 
F, D, C and B, all around the armhole up to A ; draw a line from B to the 
shoulder point in front to E, which makes the increase in front ; then increase 
from B to G and from C to H ; from D to J is 1/8 inch, and make a line as 
shown on diagram. Allow at the shoulder for the depth increase from A to 
I, and from E to L is 1/8 inch. Allow 1/8 inch from E to L all the way down 
from F to M. This completes part four. 

Before we commence the outside front part, or part five, we should 
look over the increase in width that we have made for the raised and gores. 
We have allowed for the back part 1/8 inch, and for the inside part of back 
1/8 inch ; for the underarm body 1/8 inch, and for the underarm side in front 
also 1/8 inch, and towards the front also 1/8 inch. This amounts to 5/8 inch, 
which is allowed for the width. We should see that the amount left is 
increased for the front. In order to make the increase of 1 inch we ha\e yet 
3/8 inch left to be increased in front ; allow on the front part from D to H and 
from E to I 3/8 inch ; cross a straight line from E to H to J for the inside 
part of this draft, and connect from J against C for the neck point in front an.^ 
allow for the depth point from A to F ; from C to G 1/8 inch ; from C to G 
towards the front we allow 1/4 inch, and lost parallel for G to H with a cur\e 
as shown on diasrram. 



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Lesson 1 1 3 



217 THE PRACTICAL DE SIGNER 



LESSON 114. 

HOW TO GRADE A SLEEVE. 

When grading" sleeves it does not make any difference whether the 
sleeve is cut with or without fullness. The grading is ahva^-s done the same 
way. Before commencing to grade cut out the top and undersleeve, separate 
and place them on a separate sheet of paper and mark them out all amund. 
Commence at the top sleeve and mark out the original top sleeve from D, E, 
F, G, A, I, B, C and D to H ; H is 1/2 of the inside length ; from D to C, cross 
a line from M to B in order to have the right increase for the cuff to all sizes; 
then cross a line from D to A ; N is one-half of A and D ; cross lines out as 
shown ; F is one-half of the circle between A and D ; G is about one-half of 
A and F ; E is one-half of F and D ; increase from A to M 1/-4 inch, from I to 
J is 1/4 inch ; from B to K is 1/8 inch ; from C to L is about 1/2 inch ; now 
connect with lines all around from L and K to 'M. at the top from G to O and 
F to P; at F to O allow 1/4 inch lost, as shown on diagram. The increase 
begins with the same amount as from A to M, 1/4 inch, and always lost at O, 
as shown on diagram. This completes the top sleeve. 

The undersleeve is increased the same way. At the outside lap, from 
R to Y we should have a line drawn from \\' ; from 1^ to Y is 1/4 inch ; in- 
crease from S to 3, which is 1/4 inch; fromT to 4 is 1/8 inch. Allow 1/2 
inch from U to 5 and T to 4 in order to have the same length as the top 
sleeve. V is one-half of W and U ; cross a line from U to T out to 4 in order 
to have the right increase at the bottom. Curve the armhole from Z to \V 
in order to match the curve of the original sleeve. This completes the grading 
of the sleeve. 



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Lesson 1 14 



219 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 1 1 5 

HOW TO GRADE A OXE-PIKCE SLEEVE. 



When grading a one-piece sleeve we have to increase on both sides. 
When we have a one-piece sleeve complete, place it on a sheet of paper and 
mark all around from A, F, X. E and D to B ; cross lines from A to D and 
from B to X. We also cross a straight line lengtlnva}" to. centre of sleeve 
from F to C ; increase from A to G and from X to M and E to K 1/4 inch ; 
make a curve parallel from A, L. X and K, and from D to J and from B ta 
H 1/4 inch. Make the outside lines so as to increase from G to H and from 
K to J. For all one-piece sleeves the system of grading should be followed 
the same waA". This completes the grading of the one-piece sleeve. 



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220 




HOW TO GRADE A BUTTERFLY SLEEVE BLOUSE. 



To begin, cut out a one-piece butterfly sleeve blouse pattern and place 
on a separate sheet of paper and mark the line at the back from 1 to 2 ; this 
is from the neck down to the waist line, and shift in with 1/8 inch from 1 to 
A and 2 to B ; from B to 3 and C to 4 allow 1/8 inch ; from C to 5 and D to 
6 allow 3/8 inch. Now allow at the front from J to 15 and from I to 14, 1/8 
inch all the way down; in the front from I to 13, and from H to 12 is also 
1/8 inch ; from H to 11 and from G to 10 is 3/S inch ; from O to 1(» and from 
F to IC, also from X to C and E to 7 is 1/8 inch ; from F to 9 and from E 
to 8 we allow the same space as we increased from D to 6 and from G to 10, 
which is 3/S inch parallel from 8 to 9. Be very careful when grading this 
pattern at the neck part that the neck is increased 2/8 inch, as shown from 
A to 1, and from J to 15. This completes the butterfly grading. 



221 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 117. 

HOW TO GRADE THE SAILOR COLLAR, No. 1. 

To begin, cut out the regular sailor collar. Allow 1/8 inch at the center 
back for increasing the neck part from A to C and from B to D ; from I to 
H and from M to J allow the length at the front part, 1/4 inch, and lost with 
the curve from J up towards F and F to X. This completes the grading of 
the sailor collar. 

LESSON 118. 

HOW TO GRADE A STA\'DL\G COLLAR, No. 2. 

The standing collar should not be increased in height unless for a spe- 
cial width wanted. The increasing or decreasing should be made at the two 
ends, which is from K to A, H to B and from J to C ; from I to D 1/4 inch on 
both sides, which should amount to 1/2 inch, as from size to size wanted. 
This completes the standing collar grading. 

LESSON 119. 

GRADING FLAT COLLAR, No. 3. 

This collar is also graded at l)oth ends. As this collar is round m 
shape, we should draw a straight line at the two curved points, which is at 
A and G. The grading for this collar should be made in such a way that 
when the neck is increased, or is made for larger sizes, the opening for the 
inside part of the collar should be larger, and we therefore increase or grade 
from A to C; from G to E is 1/8 inch, and curved at the broken lines as shown 
in the diagram from C, K and from E to K paralled spaces of 1/S inch should 
be increased at the back from C to T 

The same parallel space of 1/8 inch should be made from H 
to F and lost from F to X. In the same way you can also decrease this 
collar for the smaller size. This completes the grading of the flat collar. 
The grading for any other collars should be followed by the same method. 
The lapel or short collar should also be graded 1/8 inch on both ends, or if 
grading at the front part of the collar is inconvenient, then grade 1/4 inch 
at the back seam of the collar. Collars which are cut out in many pieces 
should be graded, each one separately, in order to increase all parts alike. 



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223 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 120. 

HOW TO GRADE A FIVE-GORE SKIRT FROM 2o TO 26 WAIST 

MEASURE. 

Before grading the skirt we first complete the pattern and allow all 
seams. When all seams are allowed place each gore on a different sheet of 
paper to be graded. The front of each gored skirt should not be graded. 
This should remain the same for all sizes and the grading 
should be only done at the inside parts or gore. \\'hen increasing the side 
gore, increase towards the back. Always keep in mind the waist and hip 
measurements needed as the size of the original pattern. Commence to 
grade, mark out the inside gore No. 2, I, G, H and J up to I ; increase towards 
the back from I to K : J to L is one-half of the amount to be increased, and 
the other one-half should be increased at the third gore from O to R and from 
P to O, as shown on the diagram. Before increasing this amount we should 
keep in mind the waist measurement needed, as the size of the original 
waist measurement. Now suppose the waist measurement for this original is 
25 inches, this makes 12 1/2 inches half way. Should we want a 26-inch 
waist skirt, we should also take one-half of this, which makes 1.3. and watch 
the increase between 12 1,'2 and 1-3. This difference makes 1/2 inch. Allow 
from I to K 1/4 inch, and from O to R 1/4 inch all the way down. This 
completes the system of grading for skirts. When many gores are wanted we 
divide this 1/2 inch into as many gores as are wanted, except the front of 
the skirt. 



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Lesson I 20 



225 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 121. 

HOW TO GRADE MISSES' BLOUSE, SIZES 16 TO IS. 

To grade, cut out the front and l)ack pattern and Ijegin to grade the 
back first; place the Ijack part on a sheet of paper and mark out the 1)ack from 
10 to 11. Shift the back part towards the inside 1/8 inch from A to 10 up from L 
to 9 ; and from M to H is 1/4 inch ; from M to N is 1/8 inch and from 5 to B is 
1/4 inch ; from 4 to 12 is 1/8 inch. After having the back completed it is proper 
to memorize the amount which has been allowed for the width and length of this 
part. In the length, which we grade from A to 10, from L to 9 and from M to H, 
is 1/4 inch, which means an increase for the height or length of waist. Between 
the two different sizes and width we have graded 3/8 inch, and the outside 
of T is 1/8 inch ; lietween .5 and B we increased 1/4 inch. In order to begin 
the front grading we should know how much more is to be allowed in front 
in regard to the width, also we have to allow for the height. In order to 
liegin the front we draw a line from 1 to 2 and make the curve to 7 ; now shift 
the pattern inside from 2 to Z and 1 to X, and from 7 to S 1/2 inch, the it:- 
crease from 6 to C 1/8 inch. Before we go any further we should see that 
the grading is sufficient between one size and another. The grading that we 
now do is to increase from size 16 to 18, which is 2 inches for full width be- 
tween the two sizes, or 1 inch half way for grading. This means that size 
18 measures at Ijreast .'56 inches; size 16 measures at breast 34 inches. In 
order to know the amount to be graded we should take half of 36, which 
makes 18, and half of 34, which makes IT. Here we clearly see the space 
which is graded and which lietween 17 and 18 is 1 inch. Now we have to 
see if we graded this 1 inch, we have graded 3/8 inch to the back width, we 
have graded to the front 5/8 inch in width, which is 1/2 inch in front and 1/3 
inch to the side. This totals 8/8 of an inch, or the full 1 inch, and completes 
grading of width in regard to the height, which is increased from the breast 
line up to the shoulder point. We always follow the proportions between the 
size, which is 1/4 inch from U to 8 and from O to S, the same as the back part. 
In order to get the neck part right we should divide from O to 7, which makes 
S or the middle curve, and curve to 2, which is the front part. When every- 
thing is completed, finish the curve at the side and waist line at E. Follow 
the same instructions for this grading for smaller sizes, which should be 
decreased, as the larger size. 



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226 




Lesson 121 



227 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 122. 

HOW TO GRADE MISSES' HALF-FITTING GARMENT, 
SIZE 16 TO 18. 

This garment liegins the same way as the tight-fitting, the only differ- 
ence in this garment being that we have to grade each part somewhat more, 
as the garment has only four parts to be graded. As we have one piece less, 
which is the underarm piece, the foundation lines are also the same as others 
and the depth is increased to the same amount as the tight-fitting garment; 
the increase from E to J, F to K and G to L is a full 1/8 inch. We also increase 
from O to W, P to Y and R to X. The space from N to V for the shoulder 
is graded the same way as the tight-fitting. From C to J, from D to K and 
from E to L; the space A and N down to F and Q should also be graded full 
1/8 inch on the front part. Part four should be graded outside, which is left 
over and is 3/8 inch from V to A and W to B. The depths, which are at 
part four, are from R to Y and from S to Z, or between B should grade 1/4 
inch for misses' size between 16 and 18. Great care should be taken to see 
if a sufficient amount is graded for the width between 16 to 18, as there is 
only 1 inch to be graded. This completes this grading. 



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Lesson I 22 



229 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 123. 



HOW TO GRADE A MISSES' SIZE FRENCH SEAM TIGHT-FITTIXG. 

Before commencing to grade be very careful to look over the propor- 
tionate measurements for misses' size. In order to see the difference of 
increasing between the depth and natural waist length and the width from 
one size to another and so get the different depths to be made. The depth and 
waist length should increase in length twice as much as the women's sizes 
according to the proportionate measurements. Complete the French seam 
tight-fitting and cut out each gore separately on a sheet of paper and mark 
them all around. We first start the l^ack part one ; from A to D is the depth 
point at the back; cross a line from D to E and D up to F; cross an outline 
from the waist and hip and increase from A to I, E to J, F to K 1/4 inch for 
the depth raising; now allow on the waist a snug 1/8 inch from G to L and 
from H to M ; allow 1/8 inch for the increase, then make curves from I, J, 
K, L and M. This completes part one. 

To begin part two also have the depth line at B and G; cross a line 
from B against H, which is the back shoulder point ; from A to I and from 
H to J is 1/4 inch ; from G to K, F to L, E to M, is also 1/8 inch ; now connect 
curves I, ], K and L to M. This completes part two. For part three allow 
inside part from D and G, from E to H and from F to I 1/8 inch. Begin part 
four, or the inside part of front. After having marked all out on a separate 
sheet of paper, cross a line from B against E in order to meet the front point 
for this shoulder; from A to I and from E to L is 1/4 inch; from B to G, C 
to H and D to J increase 1/8 inch ; increase 1/8 inch in front from L down to 
M, then look over the gores before increasing the front. We have increased 
1/8 inch to five parts of the garment, and we have a balance to be increased 
in front of 3/8 inch, which is increased from D to H and from E to I and 
from A to F ; from C to G is 1/4 inch for raising up the depth ; cross line from 
H and D to J ; cross a line from J against C to make the front neck point 
at G ; from C to G should be 1/4 inch to parallel curve at H. This completes 
the fifth part. The total amount for grading between 16 and 18 is 1 inch half 
way. Follow same instructions for all misses' sizes, grading. 



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230 




231 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




LESSON 124. 



HOW TO GRADE MISSES' SLEEVE.— SIZE 16 to 18. 



The misses' sleeve is graded the same way as size 36. When begin- 
ning to grade mark out separately top of undersleeve and decrease from A to 
M 1/4 inch ; from B to K is 1/8 inch, and from I to J is 3/16 inch, which is 
the lost part between 1/4 and 1/8 ; from G to O and F to P is 1/4 inch 
graded. Make a curve as shown on the broken lines from M, O, P lost at Q, 
if length is increased. Increase parallel space wanted from C to L and B 
to K ; no increasing or decreasing is made for inside part of the sleeve from 
D and H to C. The luidersleeve is graded the same way from R to Y 1/4 
inch, the same from X to Z ; from S to 3 is 3/16 inch ; from T to 4 is 1/8 inch 
for increased length to parallel space of 5 and 4. Now change the curve at 
the underarm for the undersleeve from Z to W, as shown on the diagram. 



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232 




-•® 



LESSON 125. 



HOW TO GRADE A CIRCLE SKIRT. 

For this skirt we can follow the same instructions as the other skirt. 
This skirt has no gores whatever, and is not to be changed. Complete the 
original pattern for this skirt and mark out on a separate sheet of paper. 
Place the front from A to B against a straight line; from A to E is the hip 
line. Draw a line from E to O, which is the back part of the waist and in- 
crease from C to F ; for the full amount of increase in this waist allow same 
down at the bottom from D to G and draw a straight line. Be careful to 
change the curve of the waist and begin about half-way from the waist ; from 
A to F make a curve. This skirt should have seams allowed heiore grading. 
This completes the grading of the circle skirt. 



233 HALF FITTING GARMENT. 



LESSON 126. 

HOW TO GRADE MISSES' SKIRT.— SIZE 16. 

The skirt for misses' size are to be named the same as the jacket for 
model size. It should be known that the misses' skirt, size 16, should carry 
the waist and hip measurements of the size 16 jacket. Before commencing 
to grade complete the gores of skirt needed. This skirt for grading has five 
gores. Cut out and separate all gores and mark them out on a sheet of paper 
and do not increase the front in Avidth. Whatever width increasing is needed 
it should be increased only on the inside gores, the same as size 36 skirt is 
graded. The front of this skirt is increased in length — it does not remain the 
same in length. . >■■ 

The length changes as shown on diagram. Before increasing the 
inside gores for the width, measure from G to X. The hip space of this 
size is showing for grading this skirt ; cross a line for both gores from X 
against I and from Z against O and increase in width from I to K and from 
O to O as much as is needed for waist measurement. This increase should 
be parallel all the way down to the bottom from J to T and P to R. The 
lengthening of this skirt should amount to about 1 inch from B to E, from 
D to F, from H to Y, from J to M, from N to V and from R to S. This 
completes the grading of the misses' 16 size skirt. For any other skirt allow 
in width whatever overbuilt from 16 up to a larger waist, equally separated, 
and no allowance is made whatever to the front in width 

The same is to be done in decreasing for whatever size wanted. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 2 34 




"^0^- % 



Lesson 1 26 



235 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 127. 

HOW TO GRADE A JUNIOR BLOUSE FROM SIZE 15 TO IT. 

Before beginning to grade, cut out the front and back patterns and 
mark out each one on a separate sheet of paper. We first begin the back 
part. Draw a line from 10 to 11, following the waist length at the back. 
Move the back patterns in from 10 to A and 11 to D 1/8 inch; this 1/8 inch 
is to increase the neck part at the back. In order to go further we should 
look up the waist and length for the 15 and 17 sizes. In order to see the 
difference between the two lengths, which is 14 1/4 for size 15 and 14 3/4 
for size 17. This is 1/2 inch, the difference between the two sizes. We 
therefore increase from A up and from L to 9 ; from M to H is 1/4 inch, so 
from D to 13 and from 4 to 14 1/4 inch at the waist. This means that we 
have divided or increased this amount, which is the difference between the 
two sizes, to equal parts ; half at the top and half at the bottom. From M 
to N is 1/8 inch; from 5 to B is 1/4 inch; from 4 to 12 is 1/8 inch. This 
completes the back part. To begin the front part : Before we begin the front 
part we should decide how much we have increased the width at the back 
part, which should be decided at the breast line. We have increased at T, 
which is the breast line, 1/8 inch, and from B to 5 is 2/8 inch, which amount: 
to 3/8 inch. We should know how much there is to be increased regarding 
the \\idth. For tliis purpose we should look up the breast measurements of 
the two sizes, which are sizes 15 and 17 The breast measurement of size 
15 is 33 inches, and the breast measurements of 17 is 35 inches. We should 
find the difference of the two measurements, which is from 33 to 35. This 
space amounts to 2 inches. We should grade half of this amount, which is 
1 inch, as we have used 3/8 inch, and have 5/8 inch more to be increased for 
the front part. Begin to grade the front. Draw a line from 1 to 2 and place 
the front against this line and make the curve follow the front neck from 2 
to 7. Now move the pattern back from 1 to X, from 2 to Z and from 7 to O, 
then divide the space between 7 and O, which makes S — this is the middle 
line of the space — and curve S to 2, which is the proper neck part. From 
O to S and from U to 8 is 1/4 inch ; from 6 to C and from 3 to 9 is 1/8 inch. 
This completes the increase of the additional 5/8 inch for the front. Increase 
from 3 to E and from X to 15 1/4 inch for lengthening the waist, just as well 
as we have increased the back. For different sizes, larger or smaller, in- 
crease or decrease the same way. This completes this grading. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



236 




Lesson 127 



237 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 128. 

HOW TO GRADE A LONG BOX COAT.— SIZE 12. 

Before beginning to grade this garment we should always complete 
the pattern. Mark out the back separately, as shown on the diagram. From 
A, B, C, G, F, E and D, mark lines to breast line from F to B. B is the 
depth point which is taken off the draft from A to B ; cross a line from B 
against D in order to get the increase of neck for the back part, also cross a 
line from B and E in order to get the increase for the shoulder point at the 
back. Increase for the difference of depth from A to N and from D to M, 
also increase from E to L for the width of shoulder 1/i inch ; from F to K 
and from G to J is 3/8 inch; from C to H and from J to I is 1 inch; increase 
for the length. This completes the back part. 

To begin the front, mark out the front as usual from E, U, K, O, 
M, I, H and F. When the front is all complete mark out. We should 
carefully decide what size we want to be graded from this size pattern. When 
two sizes are needed to be graded we should first look at the original size of 
this pattern, which is size 12, and measure 32 inches for bust measurement. 
In order to get the 14 size we should look for bust measurement, which is 31 
inches. The difference of these two sizes is 2 inches, and in order to follow 
this half way we should make this 1 inch dift'erence. To begin to increase 
the front increase from K to L and from O to X 1/8 inch, and from E to B 
and to A is the shoulder part of 1/4 inch. Before we increase the front we 
look over the increase we have made regarding the width at the back and 
front side, which measures 1/2 inch. Now we have another 1/2 inch increase, 
which is allowed from I to J, and from H to D we should increase towards 
the front one-half the amount between I and J ; from AX to N and from O 
to P we allow the same for the length, increasing, as we have, at the back 
in order to get the right increase at C to FI. We should get a straight line 
up at the front of armhole from W to U and mark the double-breasted front 
allowance from I and X, which is 3 inches, in order to divide from W to X, 
which makes \' ; cross a line from U to A and from V against F and H in 
order to get the right connections for the neck part of this garment. 

\\'e should grade the place for pocket. The original pocket is shown 
at the line from R to O. From S and T is shown in a larger size pocket ; 
from R to S and from Q to T is 1/2 inch. This completes the grading of 
size 12 bo.x coat and increased for size 14. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



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Lesson 1 28 



239 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 129. 

HOW TO GRADE A JUNIOR'S LONG CAPE.— SIZE 12 TO 13. 

Before commencing to grade always complete the pattern and mark 
out on a separate sheet of paper. Always mark out the back first, as shown 
on the diagram, from A, D, G and C to B ; cross a line at the depth part 
from X and G, then connect a line from X against D in order to increase the 
neck part for a larger size, and increase in height from A and E, for the depth 
1/4 inch, and from D to F 1/4 inch. This increase should be carefully made 
according to the changes of the different sizes wanted. Begin to increase for 
the width from G to H ; from C to I is 1/8 inch ; from B to Y and from 
C to J we should increase the length. It can be made to any length wanted. 
This increase amounts to 1 inch. This completes the grade of the back part 
of this cape. 

Begin the front b}^ marking out on a separate sheet of paper as shown 
on diagram from O, N and M, and from L, T, K and P to O ; then cross a 
line at the breast from N to T and from N square a line up to the shoulder 
point. This line originates from the front armhole. Now cross a line from N 
against the beginning of the neck point at P, and cross a line against K ; now 
increase for the larger size from O to Q and from P to R ; K to S 1/4 inch, 
and from N to X and M to U we also increase 1/8 inch. Before we make 
the increase at the front for this cape we should carefully consider this front, 
and look at the proportional measurements for the larger size wanted. Grade 
from this size in order to know the difference in breast measurements. When 
we have 1 inch difference on the breast between size 12 and 13 we should 
take one-half of this increase between the two sizes and increase the same 
from the size 12 up to the size 13, as we have increased the back 1/8 inch; at 
the side is also l/s inch, consequently we have left for the front 1/4 inch, 
which is from T to V and from L to W ; from K to S we should always 
have one-half of the increase, which is made from T to V and from L to W; 
from L to Y we should increase the length to same amount as we have at 
the l)ack from B to Y and from I to J. Be careful to keep in mind the size 
needed to be increased from the ordinary model size. Junior sizes are fol- 
lowed by single instead of double sizes. This completes the grading of the 
junior's size. 



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240 




Lesson 1 29 



241 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




LESSON 130. 

HOW TO GRADE THE JUNIOR SLEEVE.— SIZES 12 TO 13. 

Before commencing to grade we should complete the pattern on a 
separate sheet of paper and separate the top and under sleeve. Mark out the 
top sleeve from A, H, G, F, D and C to B, then cross lines from D to A and 
from D to B. At B we increase the difference of width wanted on the size 
of the bottom of sleeve. From A to H we increase the width of sleeve 
wanted on the top. First divide the space between A and D which makes 
E, then square a line up from E and F and from E to G and from E to H. 
These lines should be straight in order to grade the sleeve as simple as 
possible. Increase A to I 1/4 inch, lost against M, L and K; from C to K 
we increase the diiTerence of length of sleeve wanted ; this increase amounts 
to 1 inch, which is finished at J. This completes the top sleeve. 

Mark out the undersleeve on a separate sheet of paper, then cross a 
line from A against C; this line produces the width of bottom of sleeve; at D 
increase first the length of this sleeve from B and E, and from G to H the 
same amount as on the top sleeve. Increase a line from A against B ; from 
B to E is 1/4 inch all the way down lost equal to the bottom; from G to H 
is the same space. This completes the undersleeve curve. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



242 




LESSON 131. 

HOW TO GRADE A OXE-PIECE SLEEVE.— SIZES 12 TO 13. 



After having completed the one-piece sleeve, mark out sleeve on a sep- 
arate sheet of paper, as shown on the diagram from A, B, C, E and D to G; 
now square lines from C to A and from E to B ; increase from A to H 1/4 
inch; from E to K is 1/4 inch, also from B to I ; C to J is 1/4 inch. Curve 
all around as shown on the diagram from H, ^l. L, K and J from C to J ; 
from F to N and from B to I is the increase of length followed by the out- 
lines according to the fullness of the larger sleeve wanted ; also curve from I 
to H the same way as on the other side from K to J. This completes the 
one-piece sleeve grading. 



243 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




LESSON 132. 

HOW TO GRADE A JUNIOR'S FIVE-CORE SKIRT.— SIZE 12. 
In beginning to grade be careful to cut out the gores belonging to this 
skirt. This skirt shows five gores, including the front, which is not graded 
in width. The width for skirt should be graded for side width of gores, mean- 
ing all gores except the front. Increase the width from I to K and from O 
to O before commencing to grade ; measure from G to the hip line and from 
L down to the hip, and cross lines from X to I and from Z to O. These 
lines show the increase in height, at the same time when increasing the waist 
allow this amount ; which increases the waist all the way down to the bot- 
tom from K and T and from Q to R. For junior skirts we also increase the 
length of skirt, as shown on the diagram, to all parts of the skirt, also the 
front from B to E and D to F, from H to Y, from T to M and from N to 
V ; from R to S allow 1 inch for lengthening the skirt. The length of skirt 
can be increased to any amount wanted. This completes the grading for 
the size 13 5-g:ore skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



244 




LESSON 133. 

now TO GRADE A JUXIOR'S CIRCLE SKIRT.— SIZE 12. 



This skirt has no gores whatever and can be graded. After having 
the draft all complete, the grading can be placed on the same sheet of paper. 
Before commencing to grade draw a line from the hip deepness, which is 
from A and E against C. Xow increase the difference of waist from C to F 
and allow the same space all the way down parallel to G and H ; from G to 
H and from B to I is an increase of 1 inch, the difference in length. Follow 
the perforated line as shown on the diagram. This completes the grading of 
the circle skirt. 



245 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



Special 
Measuremerits 



THE PROBLEM OF SPECIAL GARMENT CUTTING. 

The use of special garment cutting for women is still misunderstood 
tor many reasons. The majority of tailors who make special garments to 
order fail to understand the use of special garment cutting, and clothes are 
cut carelessly, and the result is that after the garment is complete it is use- 
less. 

The fitting of ladies' garments particularly requires the knowledge and 
familiarity with a system of special garment cutting. But this part of the 
knowledge is not generally known to those who make use of garment cut- 
ting; so, therefore, garments made by them are not fashionable, being mis- 
fitted and crippled. Another reason why these garments do not fit is because 
those who cut them have no system and are not familiar with the fashion of 
all sorts for ladies' garments, which are as follows : Half-fitting, 3/4-fitting, 
7/8-fitting, or a very full garment, which is called a box coat. 

It is understood that in these are many failures of the ladies' tailor- 
made garments. 

I have, therefore, prepared a set of twelve measurements for ladies' 
garments in such a way that they cannot fail to prove the build of all kinds 
of forms as: Normal, stooping, slim, erect and stout forms. 

We need no complicated rules for this measurement, only a tape meas- 
ure is necessary. Anyone who follows the instructions will be able to 
take a correct measurement. They are transferable to anyone who can cut 
garments by a special measurement system and will be useful for this pur- 
pose. These measurements are planned on the style of musical notes ; that 
is, anyone who can cut by a system of special measurements can also read 
the build of a form when measurements have been taken. 

The build of the form will be distinctly shown by the measurement, 
and these measurements will indicate the build of the form as follows : The 
full or flat chest, small or large waist, small or large bust, small or large hip, 
also regular or over-built back, short or long side length, short or long natu- 
ral waist length and front waist length, short or long back or front, straight 
or round back, square or sloping shoulders, short or long neck, or if the fig- 
ure is short, slim, erect, stout or normal. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 246 



These sections of the form can l)e seen by carefully looking over the 
measurements after they have been taken. It is understood that this re- 
quires a little practice in special garment cutting', in order to know the use 
of every measurement which is taken, as follows: The first measurement 
we call the front depth — this measurement gives us the build of the form in 
front and shows us whether the form is long in front over the chest and 
high at neck. The second measurement is called the arm blade — this meas- 
urement gives us the width of back; it also shows us if the width of back is 
round. This measurement carries a great responsibility for the size needed 
as regards the chest, that is, if tlie arm blade measurement is over-built or 
increased, and the front decreased. Should this lie the opposite wav, the 
arm blade measurement should be a very narrow one. and means that the 
chest of this garment will be a very large one. 

It should be known that if the arm blade is very large, according to 
the size, that this means a round back. Regarding a correct understanding 
of what we call over-built for this size, I explain as follows : The regular 
arm blade for size 36 is about 32 inches, which means one-half or 11 inches. 
If the measurement should be 23 inches or 11 1/3 inches, one-half of it, it 
means 1/2 inch over-built from the regular arm blade for 3G size. It should 
Ije understood that this increased arm blade means an increased width of 
back. The third measurement is called back depth. This measurement 
gives us the depth in back from the neck to the bottom of the armhole. 
The fourth measurement is the natural waist length. This measurement 
gives the correct length in back from the neck down to the hollow of the 
waist. The fifth measurement is the full length of the coat from the neck 
in back to the length of the garment needed. The sixth measurement is the 
chest. This measurement gives the guide for the size of garment by which 
it is regulated. The seventh measurement is the bust. This measure 

gives the full extent of the bust increase or the fulness of the bust. The 
eighth measurement is the waist. This measurement is taken over the small- 
est part of the waist and gives the idea whether the waist is over-built for 
the size wanted and how much it is over-built. The ninth measurement is 
the hip. This measurement is to show if the hip is full, medium or flat for 
its regular measurement. The tenth measurement is the inside slee\e length 
from underarm to waist. The eleventh measurement is the side body from 
underarm down to the waist length on the side. The twelfth measurement 
is the long waist in front from the socket bone (or from the back collar but- 
ton) to the long waist in front. This measurement will show how much the 
waist in front is lower than tiie natural waist line, or how nuicli tlie form is 
French waisted. 

For further instructions see the diagrams and rules of taking special 
measurements. 



247 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE RIGHT WAY TO TAKE SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS. 

In taking a customer's measure it is absolutely essential that the per- 
son feel perfectly at ease in every way. The measure should be taken over a 
shirt waist or blouse. No jacket should be worn when measurements are 
taken. It is understood that special measurements cannot be taken without 
a corset. When taking measurements it is proper to see that the person stands 
in a natural position, in order to get the proper measurements of the way 
the person is built, otherwise the pose will inevitably and imconsciously result 
in a misfit, causing trouble and unpleasantness. 

PjC very careful in measuring to place the 'tape close to the body — 
neither too tight nor too loose — and see to it that the tape is not slanting. 
The success of special garment cutting depends greatly on the balance, which 
the measurements alone can ascertain. It is, therefore, necessary that the 
body of the person should be in its natural pose when the measurements 
is taken. I must again impress upon you the necessity of so arranging mat- 
ters so that the person keeps her body in its proper pose while measuring as 
there are a great many whose natural build is somewhat sloping, and who 
will stand erect, which should be avoided, during the act of measuring. 

The measurements according to this system is taken, without excep- 
tion, alike for all garments. In order to make it practical, it is proper to 
memorize the names of the measurements and also to know the number of 
measurements as follows : 

The first measurement, which I call front depth, is taken from the 
center of back at A, and taken all around at the front of armhole towards 
the back and again up to A. 

The second, which is arm blade, is taken the same way as the front 
depth, and from A around towards the back to the center to B. 

Third: Back depth from A to B. 

Fourth : Natural waist length from A to C. 

Fifth : Full length of garment from A to D. 

Sixth : Chest is all around I to E, which is size of garment. 

Seventh: Bust is taken all around at F. 

Eighth : ^^'aist is taken all around at G. 

Ninth : Hip is taken all around at N. 

Tenth: Inside sleeve length is taken from I to J. 

Ele\enth : Under arm is taken from I to K. 

Twelfth : Front waist length is taken from the center of back at A 
ddwn to the front to G. 

This completes the measurements for the up])er part of the body for 
all kinds of jackets, blouses, waists or dresses. For skirts take measurements 
as usual — waist, hip, front length, side length and back length. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



248 



■lC''*^J 



'^"k 







249 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 137. 

Xo. 1.— HO\\- TO DRAFT A JACKET BY SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS. 

The art of cutting garments by special measurements are of great use 
to all who cut garments for all kinds of builds, \^'hen drafting be careful 
to make use of all measurements that are taken. To save trouble check off 
all measurements that are used, so as not to have any mistakes ; also memo- 
rize the names of measurements to know which measurement vou are using. 
For this draft measurements are as follows : 

Front depth 28 inches. Bust 40 inches. 

Arm blade 25 inches. \\'aist 36 inches. 

Depth Ti/o inches. Hip 4.3 inches. 

Natural waist length... 1.5 inches. Inside sleeve length.... 18 inches. 

Full length 28 inches. Under arm length ' inches. 

Chest 38 inches. Front waist length 22 inches. 

Begin to draft. From A to B is 7 1/2 inches depth; from A to C is l-") 
inches natural waist length ; from C to D is 6 inches hip length ; from A to 
E is 28 inches for full length. Before crossing the lines place the under 
arm length 7 inches from the waist line up to the breast line, and from 
C to F this under arm length measure gives a test for the depth from A to 
B ; this under arm length shows if the depth is being taken short or long 
for the body measure. Now divide the space which is left between the 
depth and side length, which makes G. Cross all lines from A. G, C, D 
and E, and measure on the hip line from D to H, which is 1 1/2 inches; and 
on the waist line from C to I is 2 inches ; then cross lines from H to I and 
from I to A. This is the body or guide line for the fitting from where all 
measures begin, and J is the depth point on the body line. Measure from 
J to K, 25 inches for arm blade, which makes 12 1/2 inches ; from K to M 
is only 3 inches. Bear in mind that the chest measure is the size number. 
Draw a line from M to N ; from N to P and P to O, which is one-sixth of 
size, or 3 1/8 inches. Cross a line from M to O up to R, this is the front 
depth line ; then place the front depth measure 28 on the size number on 
the scale, or 14 inclies, which is half of 28 ; from M to O and R take off one- 
sixth of size for the back neck at A to ^' and from R to O. Point Q 
shows that the form for which this measure was taken is somewhat short 
in front. This amount of shortness in front is shown on the draft at front 
depth point from Q to O. This special outline distinctly shows the build of 
the body according to the measurements. Now draw a straight line from 
O to S, which is one-sixth of size, following the line of O and P. Now 
cross a line out from S to T, which is also one-sixth of size, or 3 1/8 inches 
for a 38 size. This outline shows the change of neck made according to 
special measurement. Cross a line from O to J as this line is the foundation 
for the front shoulder. 



I 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 250 




Lesson 1 37 



251 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 138. 

No. 2.— SPECIAL }iIEASUREMEXT DRAFT. 

This draft sliows another operation of the special measurements in a 
different build. The measurements are as follows: 

Front depth 29 inches. Bust 40 inches 

Arm blade 23 inches. Waist 2G inches. 

Depth 71 •> inches. Hip -12 inches 

Natural waist length. . .1.3 inches. Inside sleeve length.. .. 18 inches. 

Full length 28 inches Under arm length .... 6H inches 

Chest 38 inches. Front waist length 23 inches. 

Now begin to draft. From A to B is 7 1/2 inches depth measurement : 
from A to C is 15 inches natural waist length ; from A to E is 28 inches full 
length of coat ; from C to D is 6 inches hip length. Before crossing the 
breast line measure the under arm length up from the waist length C to F, 
then take one-half of F and B, making G, and cross a line from G for the 
breast line ; also cross all other lines as ustial. Make the body line and 
measure on the hip line from D to H 1 1/3 inches; from C to I is 2 inches; 
now cross a line from I up to A and down to H ?nd 46. Begin to work the 
arm blade on the breast line from J to K, which is half of 23 arm blade, or 
n 1/8 inches; from K to M is 3 inches. Draw a line up from M to N; from 
N to P is one-sixth of size from P ; cross a line up to O and measure one- 
sixth of size : then cross a line from M to O up to R and apply the front 
depth measurement, which is 29 inches on halves, or 1-1 1/2 inches from M 
against O. When marking the correct neck point at the front we first take 
oft' from R to O one-sixth of size for the back of neck, which is at A. Now 
cross a line from O to J to make the front shoulder and see the increase at 
the front neck point from O to O ; then cross a parallel line from O to S and 
measure one-si.\th of size : from S to TT is also one-sixth of size with a seam 
allowed. Make the width of back and divide from G to K. which makes 9 ; 
from 9 to 10 is 1 1/4 inches: cross a line from 10 to 12; from A to W is 
one-sixth of size ; from A\' to ^' is 1 inch. Cross a line from Y to 12 out to 
13 and square a line down from 13 to 10; this makes the width of shoulder 
and back. In order to get the front shoulder measure first, the back shoulder 
from \' to 13 and apply the same amount from O to U. Measuring the bust 
from T to Y is half of bust measure and from V to Z is 3 inches for seam. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



252 




Lesson 1 36 



253 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

LESSON 139. 

No. 3.— SPECIAL MEASUREMENT. 

This diagram completes Lesson No. 2. From H to 23 is one-sixth of 
size of chest measurement and 1 to 15 is 1 inch less than H to 33 ; from 15 
to 16 is 1 inch ; from 23 to 24 is 3/4 inch. Now cross a line from 16 to 24 
and 16 to 9, also from 15 to 9 and to 23 down to 45; then divide from 10 to 
12 making I I Cross a line out to 14 and make a little curve from 13 to 14 
for the back part ; from K to 4 and from L to 30 is 3/4 inch ; cross a line 
from 4 to 30 to make 1? on the waist line and divide between 1' and 16 to 
make 8 ; also divide between 4 and 9 to make 7 ; from T to 47 is 1 inch up ; 
now cross a line from 47 down to 7, 8 and 20, and take out both sides from 
8 ; 3/4 inch to 18 and 19. Allow both sides of 20 on the hip line 3/4 inch at 
21 and 22; cross lines from 18 to 22 and 19 to 21 and from 18 to 19 up to 7; 
then allow from L to 26, 1 inch; and from 30 to 25 also 1 inch; cross from 
17 to 25 and from 2 to 26 ; from 17 to 2 is always 1 inch; at 4 towards the 
front is always 1/4 inch. Now we measure the waist line in front for the 
front waist length measurement, which is 23 inches, and first take off one- 
sixth of this size allowing 1 inch less for seams, and apply the balance from 
Q to 3, which makes the long waist line in front. Supposing we have these 
23 inches for front waist length we look up first the size of chest of this gar- 
ment and take one-sixth off for the back neck and measure from the centre 
of the back when we take these measurements. If this one-sixth of the size 
amounts to 3 1/8 inches, we take off 1 inch for seams which leaves a balance 
of 2 1/8 inches. Taking 2 1/8 inches from 23 inches leaves a balance of 
20 7/8 inches. Measure this 20 7/8 inches from Q to 3 and cross a line from 
2 against 3 out to 5 ; from Z to 1 is always 1 1/2 inches. Cross a line from 
TTto X down against 1 to 5, 6 and 39, and divide the chest part between M 
and X, making 28 ; take this space between X and 28 and place the same 
from 1 to 27 ; then cross a line from 28 against 27 down to 36; 31 is the long 
waist line ; from 31 to 32 is 1 inch ; from .31 to 33 is 3 inches. Divide between 
28 to 31 which makes 29 and connect lines on both sides of 31 from 29 to 32 
and 33 down to 34 ; from 36 to 35 is 1 inch ; cross lines from 32 to 35 down 
to 37, and place a square to the line frim 32 to 34, and square a line down to 
38. Now curve all parts at the waist and hip, as usual, and lengthen all 
gores lost from the hip and follow carefully the hip curves by lengthening. 
Be careful to have all lengths from hip to the bottom line in order. To begin 
we measure the straight line from I to 46 at the back and place the same 
length from 15 to 45, from 16 to 44, from 19 to 42, from 18 to 43, from 17 to 
40, from 2 to 41, from 34 to 38, 32 to ;K and 5 to 39. This part of the gar- 
ment should be curved the same as any other tight-fitting garment. After 
liaving this diagram complete, test the armhole for the special sleeve meas- 
uremnt draft, ^^'hen beginning test, place a square line to the back line 
from 10 to 50 and cross a line towards the front with a full one-half seam; 
lower at the back shoulder point at 13 and cross with a line to the front arm- 
hole which makes 51. Measure the space from 50 to 10 on thirds, which 
shows 36 on thirds, or (i inches. This shows the top of sleeve or depth of 
the armhole. Now measure for the width with a cross line from 13 to 51, 
also on thirds, which gives 38 width measurement for the sleeve on thirds, 
or 6 1/2 inches. \\'hen beginning to draft the sleeve for this armhole keep 
in mind the two measurements, and also remember which of these two meas- 
urements is the depth of armhole and the width of armhole. The natural 
sleeve notch is shown pointing out at M, and no other notch is necessary. 
Tliiscompletes the special measurement draft. 

\\'hen cutting any other style half-fitting or box coat, the same meas- 
urements and rules should be applied. This garment is also cut with seams 
same as all others. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 254 



LESSON 140. 

No 4— HOW TO CUT BY SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS WITHOUT 
SEAMS ALLOWED. 

When beginnint;- to draft draw lines, as usual, and use the same meas- 
urements. The measurements fcr this garment are as follows: 

Front depth 28 inches. liust -11 inches. 

Arm blade 23 inches. Waist 26 inches. 

Back depth T inches. Hip 43 inches. 

Natural waist length 1-") inches. Inside sleeve length 18 inches 

Full length 21 inches. Under arm length 8 inches. 

Chest all around 38 inches. Front waist length 23 inches. 

To begin to draft draw lines from 1 to 4 ; from I to 2 is 7 inches back 
depth ; from 1 to 3 is 15 inches natural waist length ; from 3 to 4 is 6 inches 
hip length; or from 1 to 4 is 21 inches full length. Now cross all lines from 
], 2, 3 and 4; from 4 to 5 is 1 1/2 inches; from 3 to 6 is 2 inches. Draw 
lines from 5, 6 and 7 up to 1. Measure the arm blade from 7 to 8 which is 
23 on scale, or 11 1/2 inches. Draw a line up from 8 and down to 9 and 10; 
then take half of 7 and 8, which makes 11. From 11 to 12 is 3/4 inch. Draw 
line up to 13 ; from 1 'to 14 is 1/8 of size, or 2 3/8 inches for this size, or 
chest measure. It should be known that for special measurement we use 
the chest measurement as a size number for all parts of the garments ex- 
cept the bust and the other special measurements. From 14 to 15 is 1 inch. 
Draw the shoulder line from 15 to 13; 16 and 12 is the same as always. 
From 8 to 31 is one-eighth of chest, or 2 3/8 inches; from 32 to 33 and from 
33 to 34 is also one-eighth of chest. Draw a line from 31 against 34 and 
measure the front depth, which is 28 on the scale, ^jt 14 inches; from this 14 
inches take off 2 3/8 inches for the back of neck, which is at I to 14, and 
take this ofif at 35 to 36. Draw^ a parallel line from 35 to 37 parallel with line 
33 and 34; from 37 to 38 is one-eighth of chest. Measure the bust from 7 
to 39, which is 41 inches, or half of it, 20 1/2 inches. From 5 to 18 is one- 
eighth of chest; from 6 to 17 is one-twelfth of chest; from 17 to 20 is 1 inch : 



255 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



from 20 to 9 take half, which makes 21; 19 is half of 11 and 8. Draw a 
line from 19 down to 21 and 22; on both sides of 21 to 24 and 25 take out 
3/4 inch; on both sides of 22 allow 1/2 inch to 26 and 27, and cross lines 
from 19 to 24 and 25. Cross lines from 24 to 27 and 25 to 26; from 9 to 53 
is 1 inch; from 40 to 42 is 1 inch. Now measure the front waist length from 
35 to 41. ^^■hen measuring the front waist length take ofif one-eighth of 
chest, which belongs to the back neck, or begin to measure from 36 to 35 
and down to 41, which is 23 front waist length. Now make the dart in 
front and divide the chest and take out the same amount as usual. For the 
French seams follow the same as always and do not allow for seams. From 
10 to 57 is 3/4 inch, and from 10 to 58 is 1 inch. The allowance in front for 
a dart on a tight-fitting is 1 inch. For a half-fitting garment, 1/2 inch. The 
front waist length is always followed by special measurement. When drafting 
without seams be very careful to see that the back depth and natural waist 
length should be taken very snug in length. This completes the special 
measure draft without seams allowed. 

A Sleeve Without Seams Allowed. — When a sleeve without seams is 
wanted, use the same outlines ; but. in order not to have the sleeve too full 
according to the size or measurements wanted, use the depth and width of 
sleeve one size smaller, as the measurements and this will give the sleeve 
without seams. The inside length for the sleeve should be followed by the 
measurements as usual. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



256 




Lesson 140 



257 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




A STUDY OF SPECIAL GARMENT CUTTING. 



These two figures show the differences between prportional and dis- 
proporticnal. No. 1 shows the straight development of the proportionate 
form. The back of this form is built as straight as possil^le and the bust is 
situated the proper way with straight lines. The waist effect is also built 
in proper place straight down to the hip line. The sitting form of Figure 
No. 1 is as straight as possible, and is noticeable between the line crossing 
lengthwise and the parallel space, also the waist space of the sitting depth 
of the liip across the front. Figure No. 2 shows a disproportionate build 
with round back, or round from the socket bone down to the hip, and broken 
in front, and makes the front effect short from the neck down to the waist, 
and which gives the back depth from the socket bone down to the breast 
line very long, and the front neck down to the breast very short. These two 
figures point out the use of special measurements and give the difference 
between the proportional and disproportional method. I have, therefore, pre- 
pared a system of special garment cutting which will serve the purpose for 
cu.tting garments for all kinds of disproportional and broken figures. For 
further instructions see the special measurements for drafting. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



258 




LESSON 14L 

HOW TO CUT THE SLEEVE OF SPECL\L MEASUREMENTS. 

Before commencing' the draft for the special sleeve, we need to look 
up the depth and width of the armhole, which is taken off from the draft for 
this sleeve. The special sleeve carries three (3) measurements which are 
as follows : 

Depth of armhole ...36 inches. Width of armhole ;!S inches. 

Inside sleeve length 18 inches. 

Begin to draft. From A to B is 36 on thirds, or 6 inches ; now cross 
a line A to F; then measure from A to F, 38 on halves for the width of 
sleeves. Measure from B to D for the inside length of sleeve. Divide the 
elbow line between B and D which makes E, and cross all lines and meas- 
ure from D to I, the width of measurement 38 on hahes, the same as you 
have measured from A to F, and cross a line up from I to F. Divide .\ and 
B, which makes C; from G to V is one-twelfth of depth length, which is 36 
on twelfths, or 1 1/2 inches for this size. Cross a line from \' to C and 
divide, which makes T. Cross a straight line down from T to U and divide, 
which makes the Star. From T to X is always 1 inch for the under sleeve. 
Now divide D to I, making J; from J to K is 2 inches; from H to N is 1 
inch space. Now cross a line from K against I ; from I to O is 1 inch ; from 
O to P is also 1 inch; from G to S is 1/2 inch. Now cross the inside line 
for the under sleeve from O to N and N to G, and for the top sleeve cross 
a line from P to H and from H up to S ; from K connect a line to E, which 
is the top sleeve. From K to L is 1 1/2 inches, and from E to M is 2 1/2 
inches. Now draw a line up from L to M and from M to X ; from X to W 
is 3/4 inch, and one seam towards the armhole. Lengthen the luider sleeve 
from O to O and from L to R, with the same amount as the straight line 
from the bottom, which is built out at I to Q and amounts to about 3/8 
inch. From O to Q parallel to R, which is the under sleeve. Now make a 
top curve with a circle by the star between T and U. The starting of this 
curve should be made from V to C. The under sleeve curve should begin at 
W and T down to G. Curve the breaks at the elbow at E, M and N and H. 
This completes the special measurement sleeve. This sleeve is cut without 
anv fulness; should you want a sleeve with fulness, the only change we have 
to make is to build the width of the sleeve on the two-thirds between A 
and F and D to I instead oi using half divisions for the sleeve witliout any 
fulness. 



259 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



THE l.MI'ORTANX'E OF FITTING. 

The fitting of ladies' garments requires great confidence. To become 
an expert fitter it requires many real experiments. In order to give a cor- 
rect theory I have prepared this lesson to aid the beginner and enlighten 
those who are somewhat ad\-anced and to gain the confidence which is par- 
ticularly needed for this action. 

The first time you try on a garment }-<>u act very awkwardly, inex- 
perienced ; and get excited easily. You are afraid to place your hands on 
the garment to be fitted. In your excitement you do not know where to 
begin. At last you start to pull the garment up and down. You dance 
around the person like a kangaroo and get through in a hurr}'. The result 
is that the garment is put out of shape altogether. The measure might have 
been taken correctly and the pattern cut accordingly, but the garment is 
ruined when the fitting is not done properly. The majority who do fitting 
fail to think this matter over and to see to the best advantage the reason 
that they are not familiar with the easiest and most certain rectifications 
necessary in an ill-fitting garment. It is a bad -policy to tell your customers 
that "the garment will be all right," when it is not so. Naturally, the inex- 
perienced fitter is in a hurr\- and thinks that he can make the garment fit 
perfectly when the customer is gone. No ! Never do that. Fit the garment 
to perfection. Look up every part of the garment. See to its proper length 
and fitting part, decide what sort of fitting the garment is supposed to have 
when it is made up, and never mind how long it takes. It is much wiser 
than to have many fittings and have 3rour customer call a dozen times for 
fittings and get the customer tired and disgusted with the whole job. 

To fit a garment properly you must have patience and be sure to have 
all your changes marked on the garment or on an alteration blank. It is 
also the duty of the fitter to make the changes in order that the tailor should 
understand the alteration marks, because if alterations are misunderstood by 
the tailor the result will be that the garment will be a misfit and the same 
alterations will ha\-e to lie made again. Abox'e all, you must have full con- 
fidence in yourself. 

Special Notice. — Td sa\e trouble of making many fittings, do not take 
the garment a])art when fitted. Leave it in one in order to see the proper 
hang of it until the fitting is finished. All marks for the alterations should 
be made with soap chalk. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 260 



Shirt 



Waists 
and 



Dresses 



261 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 142. 

THE SHIRT WAIST. 

To begin the shirt waist we use the measurements as always. The 
measurements for this waist are as follows : 

Size 36 inches. Depth 7 inches. 

Bust .39 inches. Natural waist length. . .I.tIA inches. 

Waist 2.5 inches. Inside sleeve length.. . .IS inches. 

To begin we draw a line from A to D and from A to S ; from A to B 
is 7 inches depth ; from A to C is 15 1/2 inches natural waist line ; from C 
to D is 6 inches below the waist length ; from B to G and from D to E is 
two-thirds of size, or 12 inches; H is one-half of B and G; from H to I is 
1 1/4 inches. Draw a line from I to J, which gives the width of back line; 
from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 3 inches ; from K to L is 1 inch up for 
the neck curve. Now cross a line from L against J to AI, and square a line 
down from M to meet I. This connection between L and M to I should be 
made with the square, in order to meet all points at the same time from L, 
J and M to I. By doing this we do not have to measure a certain width for 
the shoulder, as these lines produce the width of shoulder for any size 
wanted. jNIake the body line from D to Z, which is one-twelfth of the size, 
or 1 1/2 inches ; from C to X is 1/2 inch more, or 3 inches ; crjiss a line from 
Z to X and from X to A to the neck point. Now begin the front ; from G 
to F is one-sixth of the size, or 3 inches. This part of the garment is the 
same for all sizes above 36, and is 3 inches. For smaller sizes than 36 this 
part should be followed with one-sixth of the size. Cross a line up from F 
to O ; from Q to P is always one-sixth of the size ; from P to O is also one- 
sixth of the size ; from P to R is one-sixth of the size, and from R and S 
allow one seam ; from S to Y is 3/4 inch up. Curve the neck in front from 
O to Y and cross a line for the front shoulder from O to T. This line pro- 
duces the front shoulder. Before measuring the front shoulder be sure to 
measure over back shoulder from L to M, and place the same amount from 
O to U for the front shoulder. Connect U to F and measure one-half of 
the bust from T to V which is 39 inches, and from V to W is 3 inches for 
seams ; also connect a line from Y against \\' down to 12, which is the bot- 
tom part of this front. \Mien completing the same lines from \' to W cross 
a square line down to 11, in order to have the increase f(ir fulness from 11 
to 12, divide the space between I and G, making X. Cross t. square line 
down froin X and 4 ; for both sides of N take out 3/4 inch ; at ] and 2 and 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



262 




142 



both sides of 3, which is on the waist Hne, take out 2 inches ; at 5 and 6 
divide the space between 3 and 4, which makes 7 ; now cross lines from 5 to 
7 and 6 to 7, and connect the Hnes between 5 and 7 to 3 inches, making 8 ; 
the same way between 6 and 7, making 9. Curve the front from 8 and 11 
and 12, which is the bottom part of this front; also curve the back part from 
9 to 10 ; from X to 10 is -i inches. Begin to curve at the back of neck from 
A and L over the shoulder to M, for the armhole from M to 2, and from 1 
against G up to U. The front shoulder from U to O and from O to Y is 
the front of neck part ; also shape the sides as shown on the diagram. This 
completes the shirt waist. 

If a broader back is wanted, divide the armhole from I to F and take 
out the same amount, or see the Butterfly Blouse. 



263 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 143. 

THE SHIRT WAIST WITH A SIDE RODY. 

This garment is drafted the same as the regular shirt waist. This gar- 
ment only changes with the side body. After having all outlines complete, 
take from G to 1 and from E to "?, 3/4 inch ; and cross a line from 1 to '?. 
This space between GI and E2 is not used. Now divide from X to 3, mak- 
ing 4; from 4 to .^> is 1 1/2 inches, and (i is half between 4 and 5. Cross a 
line down from 6 to 9; from I to 16 is 1 1/4 inches; cross a line up from '! 
to 16 and 17, and divide the hip space between C and D and 41 to E, which 
makes 7 and 8 : also cross a line from 7 and 8 and at both sides of 9, which 
makes 10 and 11, and allow 1/2 inch; then cross lines from 10 to 4 and from 
1 1 to 5. The side seam for this shirt waist is the same as the first shirt 
waist. This draft also shows a dart in front in case it is wanted. For this 
dart we first divide the chest from F to ^\' and take one-half, which makes 
21). and measure the space between W and 20 and place from 31 to 21 on the 
waist line. Before making this space on the waist line divide 14 and 1.5 to 
make 31 ; 15 is the square line down when seams are all allowed, and 14 is 
the extension line from the neck against the bust down from Y and W to 
14 and 12. Now make the line half way between 14 and 1.5. From 31 to 21 
is the space of W and 20. Now cross a line from 20 against 21 down to 30 ; 
from 15 to 61 is 2 inches for long waist line; 19 is the long waist line and 
centre line for the dart; from 19 to 22 is 1 inch; from 19 to 23 is 2 inches. 
Divide from 19 to 20, which makes 25, and connect lines from 25 to 23; again 
from 35, 23 and 27, and ciu've this dart from 39, 35, 22, 36 and again from 
25, 23, 27 and 28. The space between 27 and 28 should be the same as from 
22 to 26. Connect with a curve from 22 to 26 out to 13 and 18 to 12, and 
curve the sides, as shown on diagram, from 4 to 10 and 5 to 11. The hip'^ 
are, as usual, from 2 to 8 and from 51 to 24. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



264 




3U 23 



Lesson 143 



265 HALF FITTING GARMENT. 



LESSON 144. 

now TO CL'T A I.IXIXG WITH TWO IWRTS TN FRONT. 

Regin this draft the same as usual. Tii order to begin the two darts in 
front we (hvide the space from G to 9, which makes A2. Now divide from 
R to 1, which makes Al, and cross a hne from Al to A2, and measure from 
.\1 to .\;i. which is 5 1 '2 inches; from .\:) to .\l is 3 inches; also from 2 to 
Y is 2 1/2 inches, and from Y to 12 is •'! inches. 

This draft is taken originally from a blouse. In order to get the two 
darts we should increase from \" to 1. 1 1/2 inches; and connect a line from 
R against 1 down to 2. 

The space between 2 and XX is not used for this fitting. Cross lines 
for the darts from .\:"! to Y. and from .\4 to 12; from Y to X is 1/4 inch; 
from Y to 1] is 1/2 inch; from 12 to i:! is 1/2 inch, and from 12 to 11 is 2 
inches. Xow connect cm-vcs fri^nn .\;i to X and 11, and from .A4 to i:i and 

14 down to ].">. Increase l"i with a jtarallel line opposite to 1:1. and tinish u]i 

15 to n with a curved line. The back of this garment is the same as the 
blouse. Cur\e from X to :> out to X\. and fri^m 2 to :> is about 3/4 inch 
This comidetes the diagram. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



266 




Lesson 1 44 



267 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 145. 

THE PRINCESS DRESS. 

To begin the princess dress we first draft the outlines of a tight I'rencn 
seam fitting and complete the draft to be cut out. \Mien all gores are marked 
out draw a straight line down at the back from A and B to C : then cross a 
line down from D down to E. \Mien drafting these lines for making the 
length of the princess we should commence the increase for the length from 
the hip line ; at the same' time we have to look out that the bottom of this 
draft is neither too narrow nor too full. \\'e also have to decide the length 
of this draft from the waist line to the ground on the side ; from the waist 
to the ground in front and from the waist line down to the ground in back. 
The proportionate lengths from the waist to the ground should be 44 inches 
in back; on the side 42 1/2 inches, and in front 41 inches. Xow cross all 
lines down from the hip, as shown on the diagram ; from A to C is 44 inches ; 
from Y to E should be 1/2 inch less, or 43 1/2 inches. Make the same length 
from X to G at the first side body, and from Z to 7 make 1/2 inch less, 
which is 43 inches. Make the same 43 inches from T to J, and from 2 to M 
measure the side length, which is 42 1/2 inches, and apply the same 42 1/2 
inches at the front hip from 3 to O. Now we apply the length for the front 
from R to S, which is 41 inches. At the inside part of this front from T 
to U measure 1/2 inch more, which is 41 1/2 inches: also from V to O is 
41 1/2 inches. Be very careful to increase the 

lines down by lengthening from the finishing at curve of the hip. The 
length in front from R to S should be made straight ; also the front from P 
to Q should be as straight as possible. When all curves are complete meas- 
ure over the bottom for each gore separately, and see to it that the iDottom 
of this garment does not measure more than the double amount of the 
lengtli in back from top to bottom. The length of the dress should be .59 1/2 
inclies. This garment has all seams allowed. If a half-fitting princess lin- 
ing is wanted, use the half-fitting outlines and follow the same instructions. 

For a closed back and front or front and back panels see Lesson 39. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 268 




T.esscn 145 



2&9 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 146. 

HO\\" TO ALLOW PLEATS OX A P.LOL'SE. 

When pleats are wanted on any two-piece garment, like a blouse, ciil 
out the front and back pattern, as shown, and begin the back first. Place 
the back pattern on a separate sheet of paper and allow for pleats just as 
much as is wanted from A to 1 and from D to 2. The amount which is al- 
lowed should raise up to the back of neck from 1 L. The amount for pleats 
can be allowed exactly. If three pleats of 1/2 inch are needed in back, allow 
from A to 1 and from D to 2, 3 inches. Allow double amount for pleats. 
The pleats should always cross at the shoulder seam. The front part is 
worked in the same manner. To begin mark out the front all around from 
O, U. 6, 9, X and Z to O. From Z to 3 and from X to 4 allow 3 inches, or 
the same amount as allowed on the back part, and raise the allowance in 
front up to the neck point opposite O ; then curve the bottom from Y to X 
as shown on the diagram. When pleats are placed in proper place on the 
front or back cut out the curves of the neck as shown on the original pat- 
tern. This completes this diagram. 

LESSON 147. 

PLEATS ON BLOUSE WITH A YOKE. 

If a yoke is connected with a garment where pleats are needed, as 
shown on the diagram from R to IT. draw a line across from R to 18 and 
connect with a curve from 18 to 17. The back is made the same way. The 
yoke is cut across from T to 15. The fulness is allowed from T to 16 and D 
to 2. The seams should be allowed for both top and bottom when a yoke is 
attached or cut for such garment. The round curve at the back from 15 to 
16, and on the front from 17 to 18, is allowed or prepared so as the lower 
part can be trimmed ofl'. The pleats are gathered up for the lower parts 
of this garment. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



270 




Lesson 128 



271 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 148. 



CRIXOLIXE CUFF. 



This cuff is connected to a short sleeve for dresses and shirt waists 
The beginning of the outhne of this cuff is the same as usual. Begin to 
draw a line from A to B, which is about 12 inches, for the regular width and 
1 inch more for seams. Xow take one-half of A and B, which makes G and 
draw a straight line up from A to DG to H and B to C. The width from 
A to D and B to C is 10 inches ; from A to F and B to E is 6 inches. Cross 
a line from E to F, and the space between F and D and E to C is left over 
a 4-inch space. Take on both sides of E and F 1 inch, making E to K and 
E to J ; also from F to M and from F to L. Connect all these to I with 
curves, as shown on the diagram, from A to X, and from B to O is 1 inch: 
then connect from X' to M and from O to K up with straight lines ; from 
G to S is 1 inch space and make a curve from XS to O, from D to P; from 
C to Q is 1 1/2 inches space. Xow connect this straight line from O to J 
and from P to L ; from H to R is 1 inch and curve OR to P. This will com- 
plete this cuff". If a continuation narrow cuff" is wanted, draw a line out 
from H to T, which is about 4 inches, and draw a straight line across at T 
and measure from T to U ; from T to V is o inches on each side. This is 
the front part of the narrow cuff, which amounts to 10 inches, and after 
seams are taken off the front of this cuff will measure clear 9 inches. Xow 
connect U to O and V to P and cut out this cuff. Cut the two inside parts 
at the curved lines, as follows: From X. ^I, I, K, O and S to X and from 
L to P, R, Q, J and I to L is the narrow front cuff and is the frcmt part 
from P to \" and R to T and O to L'. This front part of the cuff" can remain 
also in one ])iece witli the inside part at U, R and P. all seams liein'.:. allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



272 




Lesson 129 



273 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




LESSON 149. 

HOW TO DRAFT A CUFF. 
To begin draw a line from A to B, this .*hall be the amount for the cuff 
which is about 12 inches and one more inch for seams, which is altogether 
about 13 inches. Now take one-half of A and B, making C. Now draw a line up 
from A B and C. from C to D fe 3/4 of an inch. Now niake a curved 
line from A to B to D. From A to E. from D to F, and from B to G is 
the width of the cuff which is about 4 inches. This vridth for the cuff can be 
changed in regard to the style or taste. Now make a curved line from E F to 
•G the same as the line belo*. From E to 1 and from G to H is 1 inch for 
extending the width of the cuff on top part. Now connect a line from A to I and 
from B to H and make curves at I and H as shown on the diagram. From A 
to K and from B to M is 1 1/2 inches allowed for the bottom face of this cuff 
and curve the bottom line from K, L to ]\I as shown width the broken line. The 
diagram this bottom face must not be allowed if this cuff is sewed on to the bottom 
of tliat ~leeve. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



274 




LESSON 150. 

THK HIGIJ-STAXDIXG COLLAR. 

This cnllar tiegins the same as ihe ordinary stand in, ;.;■ cnllar. Draw a 
hne from B to D, which is the full size of the collar, 14 inches, and allow 1 
inch more for seams. E is half between 15 and D. Raise the line up from 
II to A, E to F and D to C ; from B to A and from I) to C is about '■'> inches 
for the regular height ; from B to H and D to I is 3/1 inch. Connect with 
round curve from H to E and from I to E; from .\ to K and from C to J 
is 1/3 inch. Draw straight lines from H to K uj) to P and the same from 
I to J u]) to R; from K to P and J to R is 1 inch in height. T is half of the 
space between A and F, and S is also half between I'" and C. Begin U> make 
curves from f^W to F. and from 1' up to \' and lost at I^. This completes 
the high-standing collar, with all seams allowed. This collar is used for 
shirt waists and dresses. 



275 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 15L 

:\iissES' r. LOUSE. 

This l)louse Isegin? with the same foundations as all others. Fellow 
according to the regular propdrtions ( f size Ki. The measurements for th's 
size are as follows : 

Back de])th fi% inches. Bust -u inches. 

Natural waist length.. .15 inches. Waist 2:! inches. 

Size of chest 34 inches. Hip 40 inches. 

iSegin to draft by drawing a line from A to \\' and from .\ to C: from 
.\ to 15 is 6 3/4 inches; the hack depth and from A to C is lo inclies for 
r.atural waist length. Now draw lines across from A to W, and from R to 
R and C to V. Measure from B to G, and from C to E is two-thirds of 
size, or 1 1 3/8 inches. Draw a Dline up from E to G and divide between B 
and G, which makes H ; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches. Draw a line up from 
I to J, as usual, and from A to K is one-sixth of size, or 2 7/8 inches for 
this size, and from K to L is 1 inch. Cross a line from L and J to M, and 
square a line down from M to I, as usual, for the width of the back and. 
shoulder. From G to F is one-sixth of size, or 2 7/8 inches. Cross a line 
from F to Q and from Q to P; from P to O is also one-sixth of size, or 2 7/8 
inches; from P to W is one-sixth of size with one seam allowed. From W 
to Z is 3/4 inch, as always; from C to 8 is 2 inches. Now draw a line up 
from 8 to A and connect a line from O to T, which gives the front shoulder. 
Measure the space at the back shoulder from L to M and place the same at 
O to U and connect a line to F for the front arm. Now measure half of 
bu.st from T to S, which is 18 1/2 inches for this size, and from S to R is 3 
inches allowed for seams. Extend a line from Z against R down to the bot- 
tom to XX and divide the space between I and G to make N. At both sides 
of N to 5 and 6 take out 3/4 inch, and cross a line down from N to 7 ; both 
sides at 7 to 4 and 9 are 2 inches. Now connect lines from 4 to 5 and 9 to 
(i, which completes the side seam. Shorten the waist length 1/2 inch for the 
blouse from 8 to D and E to 9. The waist length should be shortened witli 
a full seam from the full waist length. Now connect a line from 9 to X ; 
from y to X is one-sixth of size, or 2 7/8 inches for this size, and curve up 
from X to XX with 1 inch from the straight line, as shown on the diagram. 
Now shape the armhole. .\11 seams are allowed. For the tunic skirt see 
instructions for size 36. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




Lesson 146 



277 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 152. 

JUNIOR BLOUSE.— SIZE 15. 

The measurements for this are as follows: 

Breast 3-3 inches. Back depth 6% inches 

Bust 35 inches. Natural waist length. . . 141/4 inches. 

Waist 341/^ inches. Inside sieve length 16% inches. 

Hip 39 inches 

To begin to draft draw a line from A to W and A to D ; from A to B 
is 6 5/8 inches back deptli, and from A to C is 14 1/3 inches natural waist 
length. Now draw lines across from A, B and C; from B to G and from C 
to E is two-thirds of size, or 11 inclies for this size. Cross a line from E 
and G to U, and divide B to G, which makes H ; from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, 
as usual. Draw a line up from I to make J ; from A to K is one-sixth of 
size, or 2 3/4 inches ; from K to L is 1 inch. Now connect from L and J 
to M a square line down, as usual. This completes the width of back of 
shoulder. From C t oS is one-twelfth of size, and 1/2 inch more allowed 
amounts to 1 7/8 inches. Draw a line from S to A ; from G to F is one-sixth 
of size, and from Q to P and from P to O is also one-sixth of size ; from 
P to W is one-sixth of size with seam allowed, or W to Z is 1/2 inch for 
the neck raised up. Connect the front shoulder from O to T and take tlie- 
back shoulder measurements from L to M, measuring the same amount 
from O to U. For the front shoulder connect a line from U to F for the 
front of armhole. Measure from T to V for half of bust measurement, 
which is 17 1/2 inches. From V to X allow 3 inches for seams. Now ex- 
tend a line from Z against X to R ; from X square a line down to Y, and 
divide the space between I and G at the center of armhole, making 2 ; from 
2 to 3 is 1 inch, N is half of N. Square a straight line down from N to 1 and 
8 ; at both sides of 1 to 4 and 5 take out 1 1/2 inches, and connect a line from 
2 to 5 and 3 to 4; Y is one-sixth of size, or 2 3/4 inches below the waist line 
in the front. Now connect a line from 4 to Y out to R ; from R to 6 is 1 
inch curved up. This completes the blouse. 

If a hip allowance is wanted for this blouse, as shown with the broken 
lines on the diagram, allow lines below the waist line from D to 7, which is 
one-twelfth of size, or 1 3/8 inches, and connect from 7 to S on both sides 
of 8, 9 and 10, which is 1 inch; also connect 9 to 5 and 10 to 4, the front 
line from 6 and R straightened down to 11. This space between S, 7, 5 and 
9 and 4 to 10 and 6 to 11 is one-third of size, or 5 1/2 inches. Complete the 
same as shown on the diagram. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



278 




Lesson I 5 2 



279 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 153. 

CHILD'S PRINCESS DRESS.— SIZE G. 

Begin this draft as usual. Measurements to be followed according 
to proportions of size 6. Draw lines from A to R and A to E ; from A to 
]', is the back depth; from A to C is natural waist length; from C to D is 
the hip length, which s one-third of the size, and from A to E is the full 
length of the dress. From D to ZZ is one-twelfth of size, or 1 1/8 inches, and the 
space from C to X is 1/- i"ch additional, which is 1 -5/8 inches. From B to 
G and from D to G is two-thirds of size, or 8' 5/8 inches. Now cross lines 
from G to U and F, then divide B and G, which makes H ; from H t;_o I is 
1 1/4 inches ; from A to K is one-sixth of size ; from K to L is 1 inch. Square 
lines for the shoulder from L against J to make M and connect with a line 
to I, which connects the shoulder width and height of shoulders; from G lu 
N is one-sixth of size. Draw a line up from N to O ; from O to P is one- 
sixth of size ; from P to O and P to R is also one-sixth of size, and allow one 
seam, which is 3/8 inch ; from T to V is one-half of breast measurement ; 
from V to W allow 3 inches for seams. Draw a line down from W to Y ; 
from R to S is 3/4 inch, which is raised up in front for a high neck. Now 
connect a line from S against W down to XI, which is the straight line in 
front for this dress. Divide the space between I and G, which makes 5, and 
from 5 to 4 is 1 inch; then take one-half of 4 and 5, which makes 1. Draw 
a line down to the hip line, which makes 3. At 2 is the waist line between 
6 and 7; from 2 to 6 and 2 to 7 is 1 1/2 inches. Now connect lines from 4 to 
6 and 5 to 7 and from 6 to 3 and 14; also connect a line from 7 to 3 down to 
1.5, which will make the side seam for this garment. When this side seam 
is all completed begin to make a French seam on the middle of back shoulder. 
Divide from L to M, which makes 16, and divide X to 7, which makes 8 both 
of sides 8, and take otit 1/2 inch, which makes 10 and 11. Draw a line down 
from 8 to the hip line, which makes 9, and cross lines from 10 and 11 against 
9 to connect a straight line from 11 up to Ifi and from 10 round a line up 
to 16, which is connected at the breast line at H. Now draw lines from li) 
against 9 down to 13 and from 11, also against 9. which makes ^2. This 
comjiletes the back. The French seam at the front we divide, also the shoul- 
der half-way between Q and U, which makes 17; from Y to XX take one- 
half, which makes Z. Now divide the chest, which is from N to W, also 
take the space of \\' and V from Z to 18 on the waist line; then draw a line 
from V against 18 down to 19. Now divide from 18 to V, which makes 20, 
and connect with a curved line from 20 up to 17; from 18 to 21 is about 1/t 
inch. Draw line from 20 against 21 down to 22. This space between 19 and 
22 is 1 inch, which is thrown out, as we have no use for this amount. From 
AX to Al is 1 inch longer in front. Connect from XI with a curve to 14. 
This completes the front part. In order to make the back of this garment 
without the center seam at the back, take ofif from 11 to A.\ 1 inch and con- 
tiect from .A A up to 16 and down to 12, as shown with broken lines on the 
diagram. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



280 




LeSson 153 



281 



THE r i{ A C T 1 C A L DESIGNER 




LESSON 154. 

CHILD'S SLEEVE.— SIZE 6, WITHOUT ANY FULLNESS, FOR 2G- 
INCH BREAST. 

To begin, draw a line from A to I"" and D; from A to B is one-third 
of size, or 4 .^/S inches. C is one-half of .A and B; from B to D is 11 inches 
for inside slee\-e length; E is one-half of B and D ; E is the elbow line. Now 
cross all lines from A, B, E and D, and measure from A to F and from 
D to I, half the size, or 6 1/2 inches. Cross a line from F to I ; from G to 
V is one-twelfth of size, or 11/8 inches. Cross a line from C to A' and take 
half of this space to make T. Draw a square line down from T to U and 
half between, which makes the "Star" ( '■■ ) From T to X is 3/4 inch; from 
X to W is also 3/4 inch ; from G to .S is 1/2 inch and from H to M is 1/2 
inch. Take half of D and I to make J ; from J to K is 1 1/2 inches. Draw 
a line from K to I, O and P; 1 to O is 1/2 inch, and from O to P is also 1/2 
inch, then draw a line from O to N and G, and from P to H and S. The 
line at O should reach to O; the space fmm O to O sliould be the same space 
as from L to R; from K to L is 1 inch ; from F to AI is 2 inches. Now con- 
nect lines from K tu F and R and M up tn \\' and draw a line from R to O, 
which is the inside sleeve. Now cur\e the top sleeve from C to V and com- 
plete the curve from \' to S. The undersleeve is from \\' to T and G; at \\' 
is a mark with seam allowance, and all seams are otherwise allowed. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 282 



LESSON 155. 

GRADING RULES FOR SHIRT-WAIST SUITS AND DRESSES. 

The grading for dresses should be followed for the upper and under 
part separately, meaning that the blouse should be graded according to the 
regular rule of grading, wliich has no connection with the lower part, and 
which is the skirt. No changes are made when grading as regards the connec- 
tion of theblouse with the skirt. The rule for grading all different sizes can 
be found in each instruction or diagram separatel)% which is in the list of con- 
tents. The grading for the lower part — which is the skirt — is also graded in- 
dividually, which for all sizes can also be found in the list of contents. When 
grading for the lower part — which is the skirt — is also graded individually, 
which for all sizes can also be found in the list of contents. When grading 
a one-piece dress, use the same method as for grading a tight-fitting French 
seam lining, \^"hen increasing or grading the lower parts of the tight-fitting 
lining the same space should be graded all the w-ay down — which is graded 
around the hip. No special allowance can be made regarding the width at 
the bottom. 

The abore rules will serve the purpose for all sections, which are : 
women's, misses', juniors' and children's dresses. Grading for separate shirt- 
waists is about the same as for blouses, which are to be found on the different 
pages. 



283 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 156. 

HOW TO GRADE A CHILD'S l'.LOUSE.— SIZE 6 TO 8. 

To begin to grade cut out the model pattern size 6 and see that the 
proportion of the next size to be graded at the space is size 6. From size 
6 to size 8 — breast, waist, hips, back dei^th and natural waist length, is the 
measurement. The first measurement we use is the depth and waist 
length. In order to find out how much to increase in height look up the 
space between the two different waist lengths, then place the cut-out back 
pattern on a sheet of paper and draw a line at the back from l(t to 11, which 
is shown on the broken line, and move the pattern in 1/8 inch from 10 to A 
and 11 to D. On the top allow from A to 10 and from L to '.) ; M to H is 
1/4 inch, as this is the difference between the two sizes. From AI to N is 
also 1/4 inch; from .J to B allow 1/4 inch, which lengthens the waist length 
from 10 to 13. This completes the back grading. 

Now begin the front grading. The front should begin from the front 
edge. Draw a line from 1 to 2 and |)lace the front pattern to the line and 
mark the neck curve up to T, then shift the pattern back frcmi 1 t(j X, 2 to 
Z and '^ to O to allow the 1/2 inch ; from O to S and from U to 8 is 1/4 inch. 
Mark around armhole. From fi to Cand from 3 to 9 is 1/8 inch. Now mark 
the bottom curve. From 9 to E is 3/4 inch; from X to 15 is 3/4 inch. Now 
curve the bottom from E to l."J, which com|:)letes the blouse grading. Sec 
if you have allowed the difference of the two sizes between size G and 8, which 
is 26 and 28 breast. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



284 




156 



285 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 157. 

HOW TO GRADE A CHILD'S BOX COAT. 

The beginning of this grading' is the same as for Junior's size. We first 
cut out front and back pattern. To grade from size 6 to size S begin to 
grade the back part and increase the difference of depth between A and X, 
D, M and E to L. The Hue from B to D will increase the neck part. For 
larger sizes from X to M: from E to L towards the armhole is 1/8 inch, and 
from F to K and from G to J is 1/8 inch. Xow increase the length for chil- 
dren's sizes by 2 inches, which is from C to H and from J to I, and begin 
the front part of grading from Y to Z and from O to X which is 1/8 inch ; 
from B to E is the front shoulder. From .-X increase to same amount as 
you have increased for the back shoulder, which increases about l/i inch. 
The same space should be increased at the front of neck from F to C and H 
to D. X'ow increase from I to J all the way down to X to the bottom 1/-1 
inch. From H to D use only half as much as in the breast from I to J. The 
length of this front should be increased to same amount as the back part. 
The pocket for children's sizes is also graded larger and deeper, according to 
the size. The regular pocket is Q to R ; the pocket for larger sizes, which 
is from 6 to 8, should be a half lower, and is shown from T to S. This com- 
pletes this grading. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



286 




Lesson 157 



287 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




■J ® 

LESSON 158 

HOW TO GRADE A CHILD'S TWO-PIECE SLEEVE.— SIZE 6. 

Before commencing to grade complete sleeve and cut out separately. 
Place each part of the sleeve on a separate sheet of paper and mark out care- 
full)^ We first mark out the top sleeve, as shown on the diagram, from A, 
B, C, D. F. G and H. When the sleeve is all marked out cross lines from 
D to B and from D to A ; these lines show an increase for top and bottom 
of sleeve. Now divide from A to D to make E and cross lines out from E, 
G, F, H ; from A to I is 1/4 inch lost to L ; from B to J and from C to K 
increase 1 inch for the length of sleeve, and connect a line from J to K. 
This completes the grade of the top sleeve. 

To begin the grading of the undersleeve, mark the undersleeve the 
same way on a sheet of paper from A. B and C to D ; then cross lines from 
A to C and from A to E ; from B to E is 1/4 inch, from C and D to J is 1 
inch, which increases the length of sleeve. The length of sleeve should be 
increased the same for both top and undersleeve alike. Now connect from 
E and I to J. This completes the grading of this sleeve. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




LESSON 159 

CHILD'S OXE-PIECE SKIRT GRADING. 

•,nd <= Jm ^^?i" ""' ""^ ^^^ P^"^''*? ^""^ P^'^'^^ °" ^ separate sheet of paper 
and see that the measurements ot the original pattern regarding- the waist to 
the hip are correct also see that measurements for the larger sizes which vou 
are to grade are half of the waist and half of hip towards \he back, as shown 
from C to F and from D to G. The line from E to C shows the raisin., up 
at the back part for the waist from I! to I and G to H. Increase the skirt 
length 2 inches for children. 



289 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 160. 

THIi TABLE FOR ALL KLXDS OF DIVISIONS. 

The tal)le I have prepared for all kinds of divisions is to serve as a 
time saver for figuring. This table is useful for dividing any amount, large 
or small, which will help to divide the width of gores to any amount of inches, 
also which helps to simplif}- the use of the scale method. Regarding all kinds 
of divisions it will please those who are not willing to carry their instruments 
witli them. There is a scale for every division. When a certain division 
is wanted, for instance, we divide the bottom of the skirt by about 15 gores. 
In this case we take half of 1.5, which makes 7 1/2. Leave the front ofif all 
the time. Now look for the width of the bottom of the skirt, which is about 
4.5 inches. Look first on the divisional table 45 inches; then look for the 
amount of gores, which is 7, on the top line of this table, and come to the 
connection of two mmibers, and you will find the amount each gore should 
measure on the bottom. The same rule is used for dividing the top part of 
the skirt which is the waist ; look for the amount of the draft and see how 
nianv parts vou would like to have the amount divided into. 



THE PRACTIC AL DESIGNER 290 

TABLE OF ALL KINDS OF DIVISIONS. 



Vi y» '/3 !4 1/5 1/6 1/7 1/8 1 /9 1/10 1/12 

'2— 6 4!/i 4 3 2 1 /2 2 1 3/4 Ij/; 1 1/4 11/8 1 ~" 

'3— 61/2 47/g 4J^ 3=J^ 2 5/8 2 3716 VJ/A \% 1 3/8 1 3/16 1 1/32^ 

'4-7 5% 45/g 31/2 2 7/8 2 1 /4 2 13^ | |/2 | |/ 4 11716" 

15-71/2 55/8 5 35/8 3 21/2 2 1/16 "Tr« \H ■ X I >3 ~ 

16—8 6 534 4 3 3/16 2 5/8 2 1/4 2 13/4 13/8 1 3/16" 

17— 8/2 6^8 5^8 414 3 1/2 2 3/4 2 3/8 2/g 11/8 13/8 11/ 4 

18-9 6% 6 4/2 3 5/8 3 2 1/2 214 2 13/4 T17 2~ 

19—9/2 7/8 61/8 4^ 3 3/4 3 3/16 25/8 2/8 21/8 17/8 15/8 " 

20—10 7/2 6/g 5 4 3 1/4 2 3/4 2/2 2 1/ 4 2 I 5 /8~ 

21-10/^ 75/g 7 5!4 4 3/16 3172" 3 2/8 2 3/16 2 1/16 1 3/4 

22-11 814 7/8 5/2 4 3/8 3 5/8 3 1/8 23^ 2 3/4 2 1/6 I 7/8~ 

23—11/2 8/2 754 534 4 5/8 3 3/4 3 1/4 2/g 2 1/2 2 3/16 2 

4 7/8 4 3 3/8 3 2 5 /8 ~2 1/4 2 1/16 



25-12/2 


y/8 


8/8 


6/4 


5 3/16 


43/16 


3 1/2 


3/r 


2 3/4 


2 3/8 


2 1/8 


26—13 


93/4 


83/4 


6/2 


5 3/8 


4 3/8 


3 5/8 


314 


2 7/8 


2 1/2 


2 3/16 


27-13/2 


lU/g 


9 


6/4 


5 5/8 


41/2 


3 3/4 


334 


3 


2 5/8 


2 1/4 


28—14 


10/2 


9/8 


8 


5 3/4 


4 5/8 


4 


3/2 


3 1/16 


2 3/4 


2 3/8 


29-14/2 


lO/g 


9/4 


7/4 


5 7/8 


4 7/8 


4 1/8 


35/« 


3 1/8 


2 7/8 


2 1/2 


30—13 


11/4 


10 


7/2 


6 


5 


43/16 


3/4 


3 1/4 


3 


2 1/2 


3I-I5/2 


11/8 


103/8 


7/4 


63/16 


5 3/16 


4 1/4 


3/8 


3 1/2 


3 1/16 


2 5/8 


32—16 


12 


103/4 


8 


6 3/8 


5 3/8 


4 1/2 


4 


3 1/2 


3 1/8 


2 5/8 


33— 1 6/2 


123/4 


11 


8!4 


6 5/8 


5 1/2 


4 5/8 


4/g 


3 5/8 


3 1/4 


2 3/4 


34—17 


123/4 


11/8 


8/2 

834 


6 7/8 


5 5/8 


4 3/4 


4/4 


3 3/4 


3 3/8 


2 3/4 


35-17/2 


13/8 


11/4 


7 


5 7/8 


5 


4/8 


3 7/8 


3 1/2 


2 7/8 


36—18 


13/2 


12 


9 


7 3/16 


6 


5 1/8 


4/2 


4 


3 5/8 


3 


37— 1 8/2 


13/8 


123/8 


9/4 


7 3/8 


6 3/16 


5 3/16 


45/r 


4 1/16 


3 3/4 


3 1/16 


38—19 


1414 


1214 


9/2 


7 5/8 


6 3/8 


5 1/4 


434 


41/8 


3 7/8 


3 1/8 


39—19/2 


145/8 


13 


934 


7 7/8 


6 1/2 


5 1/2 


4/r 


4 1/4 


3 7/8 


3 3/16 


40—20 


15 


133/8 


10 


8 


6 5/8 


5 5/8 


5 


4 3/8 


4 


3 1/4 


41—20/2 


153/8 


133/4 


10!4 


8 3/16 


6 7/8 


5 3/4 


5/8 


4 1/2 


4 1/16 


3 1/4 


42—21 


153/4 


14 


10/2 


8 3/8 


7 


6 


5/4 


4 5/8 


4 1/8 


3 3/8 


43-21/2 


16/8 


143/g 


1014 


8 5/8 


7 3/16 


6 1/8 


53/r 


4 3/4 


4 3/16 


3 3/8 


44—22 


I6/2 


143/4 


11 


8 7/8 


7 3/8 


6 1/4 


^V?. 


4 7/8 


4 1/4 


3 1/2 


45—22/2 


16/8 


15 


ii'4 


9 


7 1/2 


6 1/2 


554 


5 


4 3/8 


3 1/2 


46—23 


17^ 


153/8 


11/2 


93/16 


7 5/8 


6 5/8 


534 


5 1/8 


4 1/2 


3 5/8 


47-23/z 


175/g 


153/4 


1134 


9 3/8 


7 7/8 


6 3/4 


5/8 


5 1/4 


4 5/8 


3 5/8 


48—24 


18 


16 


12 


9 5/8 


8 


7 


6 


5 3/8 


4 3/4 


3 3/4 


49—24/2 


183/8 

183/4 


163/8 

1634 


12!4 
12/2 


9 7/8 


83/16 


7 1/8 

7 1/4 


6/8 

6'4 


5 1/4 
5 5/8 


4 7/8 
5 


3 3/4 


50—25 


10 


8 3/8 


3 7/8 


51-25/2 


19/8 


17 


1234 


103/16 


8 1/2 


7 3/8 


6/e 


5 3/4 


5 1/16 


3 7/8 


52—26 


19/2 


173/8 


13 


10 3/8 


8 5/8 


7 1/2 


6/2 


5 7/8 


5 1/8 


4 


53—26/2 
54—27 


19/8 
2014 


1734 

18 


13/2 
13/2 


10 3/4 
10 7/8 


8 7/8 
9 


7 5/8 
7 3/4 


6/8 

634 


6 
6 1/8 


5 3/16 
5 1/4 


4 1/16 
41/8 


55-27/2 


205/8 


183/8 


1334 


11 


93/16 


7 7/8 


6/8 


6 1/4 


5 3/8 


41/8 


56—28 


21 


1834 


14 


113/16 


9 3/8 


8 


7 


6 3/8 


5 1/2 


41/4 


57—28/2 


213/8 


19 


14'4 


113/8 


9 1/2 


81/8 


7/8 


61/2 


5 5/8 


4 1/4 


58—29 


213/4 


193/g 


14/2 


11 5/8 


9 5/8 


81/4 


7V4 


6 5/8 


5 3/4 


4 3/8 


59—291/^ 


21/8 


1934 


1434 


11 7/8 


9 7/8 


8 3/8 


7/8 


6 3/4 


5 7/8 


4 3/8 


60—30 


21/2 


20 


15 


12 


10 


8 1/2 


7/2 


6 7/8 


6 


41/2 



291 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



LESSON 161-162-163. 

SYSTEMATICAL OUTLL^ES FOR BODY SKETCHING. 

The s3-stem of body sketching" is a guide for fashion work. The body BH 

sketching is not to be followed up in sizes or in other measurements. The "* ' 

system we use for this purpose is a certain space which is 1 or 2-inch box, 
and which we call a square outline or a square space. The life model space 
which we use is 4 1/2 inches. The system for this work is to memorize the 
square spaces or to find how man}- spaces are to be used. For instance: If 
three-fovu"ths, one-half, or one-fourth s])aces are to be used. If the diagram 
or sketch is to be followed by 1 inch body, then follow 3/-i, 1/2 oi 1/4 inch 
for less than full spaces. Natural waist length should be three spaces or 
boxes. This means from the neck to the hollow of waist. The space which 
is to be used for the width can he clearly seen on the diagram. For the skirt 
we have 8 1/2 spaces, or S spaces net in front from the waist down to the 
ground. The additional half-space is to be used for raising up the belt of 
the sketch in the liack. The width space is also shown on the diagram. 
The additional shape or fullness for the bottom of this square can also be 
added when wanted. 

It is proper lor every one who makes a stud}' of designing and gar- 
ment cutting to have a little knowledge of the proportional outlines for 
sketching upper and l>nver body — mpqning waist and skirt. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 294 




295 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNii.i< 



PHILOSOPHY OF CORRECTIONS 



PHILOSOPHY OF CORRECTIONS ON DESIGNING AND GARMENT 

CUTTING. 

1. Drafting is the first iu-tion in order to get t'le principal outlines 
tor tjie builds. In this action we find suitable needs in order to build liases 
for our models. Drafting for the model size is built according to full par- 
ticulars of a proportional sample size wanted, which is situated according 
to the height. The connecting garment to this size — meaning skirts to be 
drafted according to the waist size X)i either branch. Drafting by special 
measurements are followed according to their measurements without having 
anything to do with any size number, or height division — meaning strict 
s])ecial measurement drafting. A careful study is always needed in using 
special measurements, in order to make corrections that are needed. As a 
rule, practical people will always find corrections to their special measure- 
ments. 

2. Before commencing to draft a proportional garment be careful to 
study the height of the person, and all measurements that are connected with 
the height ; as depth, side length and natural waist length. When cutting 
for a short built person the measurements for depth, side length, natural waist 
length, and also sleeve, should measure short. When cutting for a medium 
height, all length measurements should be medium in length. When cutting 
for slim persons, all length measurements should be long, according to the 
regular maesurements. 

3. When the measurement of the chest is larger than the bust we use 
the chest measurement for the bust and the bust measurement for chest. 

4. The pocket should always be placed for short jackets 3 inches 
below the natural waist line in front. For long coats the pocket should be 
placed 3 inches below the waist for all kinds of lengths, as the natural waist 
length is alwa3's followed out by the height of the figure. Regarding the 
stj'le of pockets there is no rule. The size of large or low pockets for jackets 
is 1/2 inch, more than one- fourth of the size. For a 36 size this amounts 
to 5 inches. The breast pocket is 1/2 inch less than one-fotu'th of the size. 
For 36 size this amounts to 4 inches, such as top garments, automobile or rain 
coats. These pockets are to be made larger. The size of large pockets should 
measure 6 inches, and the size of the small pocket or top breast pocket should 
measure 5 inches. Patch pockets should always be cut larger than others. 
The depth of patch pockets should be carefully considered, and to have them 
at least 2 inches more in length than they are in width. The slantmg pockets 
are to be made according to the style wanted. 

5. Pleats and vents for coats should not be cut or taken oft' at the 
natural waist line, as it makes the garment look too short-waisted. Such 
pleats should begin at least 2 inches below the natural waist length, unless the 
garment is to be cut short-waisted. Where pleats are to be separated they 
should be allowed on the pattern and notched on the bottom of the coat in 
order to know how much is to be allowed for the pleat. Short pleats should 
be equally allowed all the way down. Skirt pleats should begin at least :; 
inches lielow the waist, so as not to increase the waist belt with the fullness 
of pleats. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 296 

6. Special attention is called to those who cut stout .garments. The 
armhole should be extra lar,L;e in size, and 1/2 inch depth should be made 
from the breast line. The neck should be deeply curved, and stand collar 
should be cut with a very short stand. Jackets for this should only be cut 
with a single-breasted front and 1 inch button stand, as the double-breasted 
makes the stout form very clumsy looking. The skirt for a stout form should 
he cut in very few gores. 

7. The width of sleeves may Ije used according to the style wauled. 
The top fullness for sleeve must be carefully followed for style wanted. The 
top of sleeve can Ije changed to any width wanted. In lenglhening or short- 
ening the sleeve be careful to liave the elbow one-half of the inside sleeve 
length. 

iS. The bottom width for all kinds of coats must be systemized to 
suit all lengths. When cutting a short coat, about :iO inches long, the bot- 
tom for the coat should measure twice as much as the length ; and tl^e double 
measure of the bottom should measure 60 inches. If a narrow bottom is 
needed, make it somewhat less. The regular bottom for skirts should be '^ 
yards all around. If a skirt with pleats is wanted in this case decrease the 
bottom of the skirt. \\'hen increasing or decreasing this skirt be careful 
to make the changes on both sides of everv gore. 

9. The first or proportional length for jackets is 18 inches. To con- 
tinue all other lengths alwa_\s add 6 inches. To increase any other propor- 
tional length add 6 inches and 18 inches, making it 24 inches in length; then 
add 6 inches to 24 inches, making 30 inches in length, and add (i inches to 30 
inches, making 36 inches length ; add 6 inches to 36 inches, making 42 inches 
in length; add 6 inches to 42 inches, making 48 inches in length; add 6 inches 
to 48 inches, making 54 inches length; add 6 inches to 54 inches, making 60 
inches. In order to get any size of length wanted, as threc-roL.rtlis length, 
one-half length or one-fourth length, we first look for the full length, vvHich 
is 60 inches, and take one-half of this, wdiich is 30 inches. This amount is 
known as the medium length. To ger onc-iourth length we should first get 
the shortest length, which is 18 inches, and count from 18 to 30, which is 
12 inches. Now take one-half of 12, which is 6, and add 6 to 18, which makes 
24 inches for a short length for jacket. To get the three-fourths length look 
for the one-half length, which is 30 inches, and take one-half between 30 and 
the full length, which is (lo inches, one-half between 30 and GO makes 15, and 
add 15 to the medium length, which is 30. making 45 inches for three-fourths 
length coat. It is understood that the full length should measure 60 inches. 
In case 60 inches for the full length is too long for some garments, take 
6 inches less in order to make this length somewhat shorter, which will 
make a seven-eighths length. 

10. How to find the width of back for different ways of taking meas- 
urements. The width of back can be found in man}- ways, as follows : As 
to size of breast measurement, as to armhole build, and as to direct measure- 
ments. The most practical way is to follow the measurements according to 
the size of breast, as the breast mcasuv-ement is followed according to the 
build of the form. The direct measurement for the width of the back is 
absolutely useless, as the width of back cannot be taken according to any 
garment worn by some people, as all the garments are cut with a different 
width of back, therefore we cannot get the width of back measurements by 
any other means. Use the width of back measurement for regular size, ac- 
cording to the size of breast, and for special size according to the system of 
special measurements. 



297 



THE P K A U T i C A L DESIGNER 



n. How t'l svstemize the darts for all garments: Before commenc- 
ing to draft look over the style, in order to find what sort of fitting the gar- 
ment is supposed to have. In case it is a tight-fitting garment always allow 
1 ]/2 inches in front on straight waist line. If a half-fitting garment is 
wanted alwavs allow 3/4 inch in front on the straight waist-line for the dart. 
If there is no dart no allowance should be made. Any allowance would only 
increase the front. For top garments allow the same amount for the dart. 
A 14 and 18-gore fitting is followed according to the tight-fitting garments, 
A 14-gore garment should carry 2 darts in front, and the space between darts 
should be 2 1/2 or 3 inches. At the first dart we should take out 1/4 to 1/2 
inch. At the second dart, which is the inside part, we should take out 1/3 
to 2 inches. The 18-gore garment should carr}- 3 darts in front. The space 
lietween these darts should be spaced equally 2 inches from the outside pare 
of front. The darts for the 18-gore should be curved toward the side body. 
At the first dart we take out 1/4 inch, at the second dart 1/2 inch, at the third 
dart, which is the inside dart towards the side body, we should take out 1 1/3 
inches. Further instructions for this garment are to be found in the follow- 
ing pages, where such garments are shown completely on the diagram. 

Iv. How to systemize all sleeve lengths: The regular sleeve length 
is known as 18 inches for side length. I shall explain how the sleeve length 
can be followed according to the size and according to the height, to make it 
a proportional length for sleeve. According to the size, take one-half of 
breast, which is IS inches, and, according to the height, we should take one- 
fourth of height, which is 16 1/2 inches for 5 feet 6 inches height, and 1 1/3 
inches more makes it 18 inches sleeve length. This proportional sleeve length 
can be followed the same way as length for all sizes. For smaller sizes we 
always make the sleeve short. For larger sizes we can follow the propor- 
tionate measurements, which are to be found in these pages. A three-fourths 
length should measure 13 1/2 inches; a one-half length sleeve should measure 
9 inches, and a one-fourth length sleeve should measure 4 1/2 inches. 

13. The reversible garment is cut full and always followed by box 
coats or blouse garments. The collar for such garments are cut in one, on 
front and back. No side seams needed. When placing the side seams on 
top of each other, take ofl: 3/4 inch. For long coats or capes, open cloth in 
order to be able to cut this garment the width of cloth. For these garments 
we must have a seam in the back, as the width of cloth is not sufficient. The 
sleeve for these garments should be cut in one piece, including the cuff. It 
is also possible to cut a reversible long coat without a seam in back, if cut 
across for the Empire Style. 

14. Button stands should be allowed according to the style of gar- 
ment wanted. All sinffle-breasted tieht-fittinti' jackets should carrv 1 inch 
button stand. It does not make any dift'erence in how many gores the jacket 
is cut. Single-breasted one-half fitting jackets should have 1 1/2 inches but- 
ton stand. The Hy front jacket should have 2 inches button stand. Double- 
breasted jackets should have 3 inches button stand. Eton or blouse jackets 
can carry any style of button stand. Top garments or other coats or capes 
should have more button stand to lap over the jacket. The button stand for 
single-breasted top garments should l)e 2 1/2 inches, with or without the fly 
front. Double-breasted top coats and automobile coats should have 4 inches 
button stand. Double-breasted rain coats should carry 3 inches button stand 
For coats that button up to the neck follow the rules of single or double- 
breasted fronts as above mentioned. Button stands are not to be changed 
for anv size. The same stands should be used for all sizes. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 298 



15. Length of garmeiils on a fashion-plate. If you wish to find the 
length of garment remember the natural waist length, which is 15 1/2 inches, 
then take a narrow strip of paper and place it to the waist length on the back 
of the fashion-plate and mark the paper from the socket bone to the waist 
line, then see how many times this space measures below the waist line. If 
only once more, the length of the garment should be 31 inches. If only half 
as much, the length should be 23 1/4 inches. 

IG. Lengths for jackets and coats for women's size should not lie 
changed any for different sizes. For misses' size change 1/2 inch when 
grading larger or smaller size. For junior size change 1 inch in length. l''or 
children's size change 2 inches in length when grading for larger or smaller 
sizes. 

IT. Length for dresses on women's sizes are not to be changed. For 
misses' size change 1 inch in length. F"or junior sizes 1 1/2 inches in length, 
and children's size 2 inches in length, when grading larger and smaller sizes. 

18. When taking measurements for skirts where the front length of 
the skirt is about the same as the back length, this signifies tliat the figure is 
a straight waist — meaning erect or somewhat stout. When the front lengths 
for skirts are greatly changed, or much longer than the back length, this can 
be followed as the stout skirt. 

19. How to lengthen a coat : W'hen a longer coat is wanted for a half 
or tight-fitting garment, make the draft as usual to the hip line and make all 
curves. After all curves are ready begin to increase the length from the hip 
line down to any length needed, or follow the same method as the tight-fitting 
princess lining. 

20. Sleeve lengths for misses' and juniors' sizes should be followed ac- 
cording to the size as to proportions, and women's size for the inside sleeve 
length should be 18 inches for all sizes. 

21. Cuff widths should be followed according to the style of garment. 
The regular width of cuff is 12 inches. The narrow width is 9 inches. The 
very full width for evening garments is 18 inches for all women's sizes. For 
misses' size this rule should be changed to 1 inch less. For juniors' sizes 2 
inches less ; for children's sizes 3 inches less than for women' garments. 

22. No cuff's should be cut 1 inch larger than the width of sleeve in 
front. The height of cuff should be followed according to the style of gar- 
ment. The regular height of cuff is 3 inches. 

23. Collars of all kinds should be cut according to the size of the 
neck for all garments. The width of collar should be followed according to 
the style. When cutting a collar with a lapel, the collar should be 1/4 inch 
narrow-er than the lapel. 

24. Lapels are to be followed according to the style of garment. The 
regular width of lapels for single-breasted jackets is 1 l/2 inches, or 2 inches 
for the double-breasted, and for single-breasted coats lapels should be 2 1/2 
inches to 3 inches. 

25. Flaps and welts should be followed according to the style of gar- 
ments. The correct width of pocket flaps is 3 inches, and welts 1 1/4 inches. 
These parts are a matter of taste. 

26. Butterfly sleeves are to be connected to three-fourths, one-half 
or loose-fifting garments only. It will not answer for tight-fitting garments. 

27. When the bust or hip in special measurements proves too small, 
increase same with 1 size in order that the garments will not be too snug 
around the bust or hip. 



299 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



^8. Capes should be cut by the size and bust measurement. No 
special measurements are required. The regular outlines should be used in 
all cases for all styles of capes. 

29. For seams in all kinds of garments allow 3 inches only. If French 
seams or any other special cuts are made, allow for seams accordingly, and 
allow the same amount for all sizes. 

30. When a fashion-plate shows a closed back and a closed front, then 
the garment is buttoned on the side oi on the shoulders. 

;>]. The grading changes on all different sizes or garments. In be- 
ginning to grade certain garments for women, misses, juniors and children, 
the different changes are as follows : The width for all sizes are to be fol- 
lowed the same way as regards the height measurements for all different 
sizes. A great change takes place in the back depth and natural waist^length. 
The depth and waist length for women's sizes increase alike — that is, the 
waist length increases a certain amount. The depth increases the same 
amount. For misses" size the rule is about the same. For juniors' and 
children's sizes the waist length increases 1/2 inch in length. The depth in- 
creases 1/4 inch, and the side body also 1/4 inch. On blouses for juniors' 
and children's sizes the space, which is divided for the depth and underam 
length, is to be increased at both ends for top and bottom, which is the 
U]5j5er neck and shoulder for the waist line. For such garments, which are 
continued from the waist down to the hip. change the waist line according 
to tlie amount of longest waist for the different sizes ; or, if wanted, this rule 
can be changed. The waist line can remain straight for all sizes, and the 
change of underarm can be made at the breast line where the armhole be- 
gins. For children's garments use the same method. Great care must be 
taken when grading odd sizes for juniors and children. 

32. When grading children's and juniors' garments be very careful 
to look at the proportional measurements, as the juniors' and children's sizes 
are greatly changed regarding their proportions. 

33. In grading garments which have many gores be careful to hud 
out how to divide the amount of increase or decrease; for instance, 14 and 18- 
gore garments, which are strictly tight-fitting, are graded the same way as 
the tight-fitting French seam garment. 

34. liox coats, etons, lilouses and butterfly sleeves are graded bv the 
same metho'i. 

35. Skirts are all graded alike. The front part is never graded for 
skirts ; otherwise increas'* the amount of waist and hip of all gores alike. 
Before completing the grading be very careful to see if you have increased or 
decreased sufficiently or not so as the garment is not overbuilt. 

36. When grading collars always grade them for length only, not the 
width. A half-collar should be graded half the amount, and a full or open 
collar should be graded the full amount of the size which is given on the 
table of proportions. " 

37. The sailor collar with the shield should lie graded on one style 
or method. 

38. When a collar is cut ii' many pieces, grade each part separately. 

39. Cuffs are graded according to the sleeve, and the same amount 
as the sleeve is graded in the front. The height of cuffs is not graded. 

40. \\hen taking special measurements for a large size take all 
measiu-ements snug. For slim figures take all measurements full. For me- 
dium bodv take measurements medium. 



THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 300 

41. Special measurements for front waist leng.th : If the measurement 
does not reach over the regular waist line use the regular waist line in this 
case for all garments. 

42. For testing and measuring waists : When a test or measuring 
over for waist is needed, take off seams of every gore, which amounts to 3/8 
inch for all sorts of garments except skirts. For .skirts we allow one-half 
for seams and measure the inside part of the garment. For the hip use the 
same method. This rule should be followed for all kinds of tight-fitting gar- 
ments. When the measurement or test is wanted for a half-fitting garment, 
use the same method, but allow 3 inches more than the measurements call for. 

43. ^^'hen a narrow bottom is wanted on skirts, increase the amount 
on the waist line. After the waist measurement of 3 inches is allowed add 
] inch more, which makes 4 inches, or more if you desire. If full bottom is 
wanted allow 2 inches instead of 3 inches. To understand these outlines we 
should increase the waist line for a decreased bottom as needed, and if in- 
creasd bottom is wanted we should decrease the waist line. This will liring 
the results of changing widths of bottom of skirts. 

44. Yokes should lie cut across on blouses or jackets above the breast 
line about 1 1/2 inches. It is proper to have the yoke cut bias, or down 
towards the front. Seams should be allowed on both upper and lower parts 
m cutting across for a yoke. A special allowance should be made for seams. 
If a lap seam is wanted allow additional amount. 

45. The empire style should be cut across below the breast line, or 
between breast and waist line, and seams should be allowed for a yoke, with 
additional amount allowed for a lap seam. 

4(i. W'hen splitting any part of a pattern where tlicrc is no seam al- 
lowed do not forget to allow for additional seams. 

47. When making changes for collars, and also sailor collars, be care- 
ful to follow the neck part of the garment for which these collars aie cut. 

48. Collars should be cut carefully and followed by the opening of 
the garment. If openings are changed on coats the collar should follow the 
same way, as the stand of the collar is connected with the opening line of the 
neck on all garments, which are cut with collars. 

49. All kinds of lengths for all kinds of skirts. Man}- different 
lengths for skirts are called as follows : 

First Ankle length Fourth Round length 

Second Instep length Fifth Dip length 

Third Short round length Sixth Medium sweep length 

Seventh Long sweep length 

These lengths of skirt are to be followed with different measurements, 
which in most cases change towards the back length of the skirt, and some- 
what changed on the front inside length, and should be known that the 
lengths are to be followed for the medium height, which is 5 feet, 6 inches. 
Body lengths for different kinds as above are as follows: Regular length of 
skirt is 41 inches in front, 42 1/2 inches side, 44 inches back for round length 
skirt, which is 3 inches, and spa^e between front and back length. The short 
round length is 40 inches front, 41 1/2 inches side and 43 inches back length. 
The instep length is 39 inches front, 40 inches side, and 41 1/2 inches back 
length. The ankle length, which may also be called the rainy day skirt, is 
38 inches front, 39 inches side, and 40 inches at back length. These are all 
the short length skirts from the regular size length up. We should follow- 
long skirts from the regular length down. The depth length is about the 
sanie as the regular lengths in front, which is 41 inches, side length 41 1/2 
inches and back length \ t inches. The medium sweep length is also 41 



301 THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 

inches front, 43 inches side, and 45 inches at the back. The l'>n;^' sweep length 
is also 41 inches in front, 43 inches side, and 46 inches at the back. For a 
lonjj trail skirt there is no limit to the lengths. For a medium allow for the 
trail 12 inches to the medium back length and lose with a curve to the front. 

.j(». If the hips are too large the amount which is over-lniilt can be taken 
ofif the back at hip, and if hips are too small, according to the proportionate 
draft, the amount which is to be increased should also be increased toward 
the back at all seams from the side seam to the back, and no decreasing 
should be done at the front part for the hip measurements. 

51. How to measure the waist and hip when a test for hip is wanted: 
Take off seams of both edges where seams take place and measure the inside 
space for waist or the hip part, and the waist or hip should measure 1/2 inch 
more than the measurements call for. When measuring the waist for the 
skirt, the amount should be just what is wanted, and the hip should measure 
a little more than wanted, in order that the hips will not be snug for the skirt. 

53. General notice to those who wish to create a new style of gar- 
ment or any sort of section. Before starting your creation have a record of 
certain actions as follows : Your length of garment, length of sleeve, whether 
front is to be single- or double-breasted, lapel collar, notch collar, lay-over 
collar, stand-up collar, or no collar, cufifs or no cuflfs, and if you wish to have 
a cufF mark your style for it, the style of pocket, style of flaps on pocket, how 
many pockets, how many buttons or buttonholes should garment have, the 
size and style of button and buttonholes. After completing all particulars 
decide about your main action, which is the length of the front and back of 
this garment, which means the shape or cut in front or back part of garment 
— tight-fitting, half-fitting or loose-fitting. After you have completed your 
record for style you can start to draft your model size pattern. Be sure 
to have your sample suitable size for your section of garment, as regards 
women, misses', juniors' or children's sizes. As a rule, each one of these 
sections are built with different model sizes, except the women's garments. 

53. When a large waist measurement is needed to be connected to 
the draft in this case always look up the proportionate measurements, follow- 
ing the breast sizes of the garments, and see the difference between the pro- 
portionate waist, and large waist measurements for instance, if you have the 
measurements for size of a 38 size. For this purpose look up the proportionate 
waist measurements for size 38, which is about 26 inches. Now see the dif- 
ference between 26 and use large waist measurement, which is 28 inches 
The difference between the two waist measurements is 2 inches. For this 
case, take half of this, which is 1 inch, and add this inch to the front pari 
where the seam is allowed to the dart to the waist line. Be careful to allow 
this amount to the front before you take off the dart from the front, and fol- 
low the dart according to the amount which has been allowed to the front. 
If there is a whole lot allowed, meaning for the waist, increase about 3 to 4 
inches more as the proportionate waist measurements. This dart should be 
followed according to half of the space which is allowed in front, in order 
not to have the dart too much bias. 

54. If waist is too large, take off the amount which is over-built at 
the front part, where the dart takes place, and a small amount can also be 
taken off at all parts towards the back, especially at the side body. In case 
the waist is too small increase this amount. strictly to the front only; as in 
this case, where the waist is too large, the figure is' built stout. 



THE P RACTICAL DESIGNER 



302 




KLIJCS TO HE KEMEMr.Rkl-.l). 

Xcver mind how l<ing it takes. Do it risjht. 
Xever tliink that you know it all. Always try to learn more. 
Xe\er think that you are doing well. Always try and do better. 
Tliink about what you are doing, not what you are .going tr) tlu. 
.Never think that you have it all. Always look tdr more. 
Xever think that you have the best. .Always look for som 

thing better. 

Never do anything unless you know what you ;ire doing. 
Never guess at your doings. By all means try to make >ure. 
if you are in doubt, call on us and we will make it sure. 

riie surest way is the best. 
The simplest way is the easiest. 
.A test is the best. 
Knowledge is power. 
Knowledge makes proht. 
Knowledge makes money. 

If you knew more you could make more monev. 
If you learn more you can earn more, 
."^tudv; don't delav. 



INDEX. 

PAGli. 

Title 1 

Preface ^ 

Introduction 3 

The Grammar of Designing and Garment Cutting 4-5 

The Measure of a Woman Ijv Proportion fi 

A Rule of Proportions 6 

How to Find the Height "^ 

The System of Heights 8 

Proportional Height Scale 9 

Proportional Height Scale Table ^0 

The Study on Width Proportions 1 ^ 

The System of Width Proportions 13 

A Test of Systematical Knowledge 13-11 

The System of Practical Value 15-1« 

Proportional Measurements for ^^'omen's Garments Ti* 

Scale Method on Drafting ■' 1''' 

How to Measure for a Regular Size 18 

Lesson 1, On Drafting 19-20 

Lesson 2, On Drafting 31-22 

Lesson 3, A Tight-fitting Garment 33-24 

Lesson 4, A Tight-fitting Jacket with Two Darts 25-26 

Lesson 5, A Tight-fitting French Seam Fitting 27-28 

Lesson G, M-Gored Tight-fitting 39-30 

Lesson 7, 18-Gored Tight-fitting 31-32 

Lesson 8, Half-fitting Garment 33-3 1 

Lesson 9, Half-fitting French Seam, Broad Back 35-3(> 

Lesson 10. Half-fitting French Seam, Narrow Back 37-38 

Lesson 11, A Lost Dart in Front 39-40 

Lesson 12, Half-fitting Jacket with Dart on Top 39-40 

Lesson 13, Dressing Sack with Shawl Collar 41-42 

Lesson 14, Eton Coats 43-44 

Lesson 15, Eton with a Dart in Front 4.5-46 

Lesson 16, Eton with a French Seam 45-46 

Lesson 17, Eton Front with a Dart on Top 47-48 

Lesson 18, Blouse 48-50 

Lesson 19, Tunic Skirt 49-50 

Lesson 20, Butterfly Sleeve Draft ^^'^l''ll 

Lesson 21, Kimono Sleeve in One Piece 52-.54 

Lesson 23, Butterfly with Under Arm Sleeve 55-.56 

Lesson 23, A Raglan Style Butterfly Sleeve aS-oG 

Lesson 24, To Cut a Yoke 'l' 

Lesson 25, Long Half-fitting Hipless Coat ^8-bO 

Lesson 26, Short Box Coat 61-62 

Lesson 27, Double-breasted Automobile Coat 6.5-64 

Lesson 38, Raglan Top Coat 6.D-66 

Lesson 39, Inverness Coat /a Jf\ 

Lesson 30, Butterfly Sleeve Cape '^-^-^I* 

Lesson 31, Opera Cloak ^1'^^ 

Lesson 32, Short Two-piece Cape ^-^-'4 

Lesson 33, A Circle Cape ^^"^'^ 

Lesson 34, A Circle Cape, with Shoulder Dart ^^'-^7 

Lesson 35, Long Shoulder Seam Cape '-'8 



Lesson 


36, 


Lesson 


37, 


Lesson 


38, 


Lesson 


39, 


Lesson 


40, 


Lesson 


41, 


Lesson 


42, 


Lesson 


43, 


Lesson 


44, 


Lesson 


45, 


Lesson 


46, 


Lesson 


47', 


Lesson 


48, 


Lesson 


49, 


Lesson 


50, 


Lesson 


51, 


Lesson 


52, 


Lesson 


54, 


Lesson 


55. 


Lesson 


56, 


Lesson 


57, 


Lesson 


58, 


Lesson 


59, 


Lesson 


60, 


Lesson 


62, 


Lesson 


61, 



PAGE. 

Single-breasted Riding Coat 79-82' 

Cut-away Front Riding Coat 83-84 

Double-breasted Riding Coat 85-86 

A Closed Back and Closed Front 87-88 

Single-breasted Vest 89-90 

Double-breasted Vest 91 

To Draft All Kinds of Sizes 92-94 

The Study of the Stout Form 95 

Box Coat' for a Stout Form 96-97-98 

To Cut Out the Pattern for the Stout 99 

Hood 100-101 

Sailor Collar 101-102 

Shield for a Sailor Collar 103-104 

Standing Collars 105 

Lap Over Collars 105-106 

Storm Collar 1 06 

Automobile Collar 107-108 

Flat or Dutch Collar 107-108 

First Draft on Sleeves without Fullness 109-110 

Sleeve with Some Fullness 111-112 

Sleeve with All Fullness 113 

One-piece Sleeve with Fullness on the Bottom 114 

Sleeve with Fullness on Top 115 

One-piece Dress Sleeve 115-116 

Dart Sleeve 117 

Raglan Sleeve with a Dart on Shoulder 1 18-119 

Raglan Sleeve 118-119 



SKIRTS. 



Lesson 


63, 


Lesson 


64, 


Lesson 


65, 


Lesson 


66, 


Lesson 


67, 


Lesson 


68, 


Lesson 


69, 


Lesson 


70, 


Lesson 


71. 


Lesson 


72, 


Lesson 


73, 


Lesson 


74, 


Lesson 


75, 


Lesson 


76, 


Lesson 


77. 


Lesson 


78. 


Lesson 


79. 


Lesson 


80. 


Lesson 


81, 


Lesson 


82, 


Lesson 


83, 


Lesson 


84, 


Lesson 


85, 


Lesson 


86, 


Lesson 


87, 



Beginning Skirts 121-133 

5-gored Skirt 133-124 

7-gored Skirt 125-126 

9-gored Skirt 127-128 

ll-gored Flare Skirt 129-130 

15-gored Skirt 131-132 

Empire or Girdle Skirt 133-134 

Girdle Belt 133-134 

Flounce Skirt 135-136 

Circle Flounce Skirt 137-138 

Circle Skirt 139-140 

Princess Skirt 141-143 

Divided Riding Skirt 143-144 

Side Saddle Riding Skirt, Front Part 145-146 

Side Saddle, Back'Part 145-147 

Bloomers, Front Part 148-149 

Bloomers, Back Part 148-150 

Riding Breeches, Front Part 150-151 

Breeches, Back Part 150-151 

Pantaloons, Front Part 152-153 

Pantaloons, Back Part 152-153 

Stout Skirt 154-155 

A Very Stout Skirt 154-155 

Skirt with Seams Allowed 156-157 

Skirt with More or Less Fullness 157-158 

Proportional Stout Measurements for \\'omen 159 

Short and Stout Proportions 159 



PAGE. 

MISSES' SIZES. 

Proportional Measurements for Misses 160 

Lesson 88, Misses' French Seam, Tisjht-fitting 1()1-162 

Lesson 89, Misses, Half-fitting Jacket 1 ():?- 1 (it 

Lesson 90, Misses' Short Box Coats Uia-KJtJ 

Lesson 91, Misses' Size Sleeve 1fi7-168 

Lesson 92, Misses' Size 5-gored Skirt 1(i9-170 

Extra Stout Proportions for \\'nmcn 171 

Childi-cn's Stout Measurements Til 

JUNIOR SIZES. 

Proportional Measurements for Juniors 173 

Lesson 93, Junior Box Coat 173-171 

Lesson 91, Juniors' Half-fitting French Seam Jackets 175-177 

Lesson 95, Juniors' Long Capes 177-178 

Lesson 96, A Yoke for the Box Coat 1 79-1 80 

Lesson 97, A Junior Sleeve 181-18"2 

Lesson 98, Juniors' 5-gored Skirt 183-184 

Lesson 99, Juniors' Circle Skirts 185 

CHILDREN'S SIZES. 

Proportional Measurements for Children 186 

Lesson 100, Child's Reefer Coat 187-188 

Lesson 101, Child's Box Coat 189-190 

Lesson 102, Child's French Seam Coat 191-193 

Lesson 103, Child's Sleeve without Any Fullness 194 

Lesson 104, Child's Short Two-piece Cape I95-19R 

Lesson 105. Child's One-piece Cape '. 1117-198 

Lesson 106, Child's One-piece Skirt 199-200 

Lesson 107, Child's One-piece Sleeve, Fullness on Bottom 201 

GRADING FOR ALL SIZES. 

Interest of Grading | 203 

Corrections on Grading 201 

Manual of Grading Sizes 204 

Lesson 108, Blouse Grading 205-206 

Lesson 109, Box Coat Grading 207-208 

Lesson 110, Long Cape Grading 209-210 

Lesson 111, Half-fitting Jacket Grading 211-212 

Lesson 112, Tight-fitting Jacket Grading 213-214 

Lesson 113, Tight-fitted French Seam Grading 215-216 

Lesson 114, Two-piece Sleeve Grading 21 7-218 

Lesson 115, One-piece Sleeve Grading 219 

Lesson 116, Butterfly Blouse Grading 220 

Lesson 117, How to'Crade the Sailor Collar 221-222 

Lesson 118, Standing Collar Grading 221-222 

Lesson 119, Flat Collar Grading 221-222 

Lesson 120, 5-gored Skirt Grading, Size 36 223-224 

Lesson 121. M'isses' Blouse Grading, Size 16 225-226 

Lesson 122, :\Iisses' Half-fitting Jacket Grading 227-228 

Lesson 123, Misses' French Seam Tight-fitting Grading 229-230 

Lesson 124. }ilisses' Sleeve Grading 231 

Lesson 125. Misses' Circle Skirt Grading 232 



PAGE. 

Lesson 126, Misses' 5-gui-ed Skirt Grading 233-234 

Lesson 12T, Junior Blouse Grading 235-236 

Lesson 128, Junior Box Coat Grading 237-23S 

Lesson 129, Junior Long Cape Grading 239-240 

Lesson 130, Junior Two-piece Sleeve Grading 241 

Lesson 131, Junior One-piece Sleeve Grading 242 

Lesson 132, Junior 5-gored Skirt Grading 343 

Lesson 133, Junior Circle Skirt Grading 344 

SPECIAL MEASUREMENTS. 

The Problem of Special Garment Cutting 245-246 

The Right Way of Taking Special ^leasurements 347-248 

Lesson 137, First Draft on Special Measurements 349-250 

Lesson 138, Second Draft on Special Measurements 251-253 

Lesson 139, Third Lesson on Special Measurements 353 

Lesson 140, Special Measurements without Seams 254-256 

Study of Special Garment Cutting 257 

Lesson 141. Special Sleeve 258 

Importance of Fitting 259 

SHIRT WAISTS AND DRESSES. 



Lesson 142. Shirt Waist 261-263 

Lesson 143, Shirt Waist with a Side Body 263-364 

Lesson 144, Lining with Two Dart in Front 265-266 

Lesson 145, Princess Dress 267-268 

Lesson 146, To Allow Pleats on a Blouse 269-270 

Lesson 147, Pleats on a Blouse with a Yoke 369-270 

Lesson 148, Crinoline Cuff 271-27-.' 

Lesson 149, To Draft a Cuff 273 

Lesson 150, High Standing Collar 274 

Lesson 151, Misses' Blouse Drafting 275-376 

Lesson 152. Junior Blouse Blouse Drafting 277-278 

Lesson 153, Child's Princess Dress 279-280 

Lesson 154, Child's Sleeve Drafting 281 

Lesson 155, Grading Rules for Waists and Dresses 283 

. Lesson 156, Child's Blouse Grading 283-284 

Lesson 157, Child's Box Coat Grading 285-386 

Lesson 158, Child's Two-piece Sleeve Grading 387 

Lesson 159, Child's One-piece Skirt Grading 388 

Lesson 160, Table of All Kinds of Divisions 289-290 

Lesson 161, Systematical Bust Sketching 291-392 

Lesson 163, Systematical Back Sketching 293 

Lesson 163, Systematical Skirt Sketching 391 

Lesson- 164, Philosophy of Corrections 295-301 

Rules to Be Remembered 303 



H 96. 85 •■« 







HECKMAN 

BINDERY INC. 

APR 85 

N. MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA 46962 



